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sbc

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello. I’m new to this forum and have no idea how to start a discussion on here. I need help. For the past month I’ve had my 2015 Chevy Cruze LT 1.4 liter overheating. “AC off due to high engine temp” and “Engine temp too high. Idle engine” messages appear. We have replaced the thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, bled the coolant lines numerous times, and disconnected the battery. The fan runs fine. No leaks. The problem persists. Car has 79,900 miles. No smoke coming from exhaust or engine. Coolant starts to boil when the messages pop up on the dash. It drives okay up until you hit 50 mph and over. Then it overheats. The check engine light hasn’t come on to get any code. Anyone have any idea what else I could try to replace? What could it be?
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
For the past month I’ve had my 2015 Chevy Cruze LT 1.4 L Turbo overheating. “AC off due to high engine temp” and “Engine temp too high. Idle engine” messages appear. I have replaced the thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt, bled the coolant lines numerous times, and disconnected the battery. The fan runs fine. No leaks. Coolant is full. The problem persists. Car has 79,900 miles. No smoke coming from exhaust or engine. Coolant starts to boil when the messages pop up on the dash. It drives okay up until you hit 50 mph and over. Or are driving more than 15 min. Then it overheats. The temperature gauge will slowly go to the middle and rise to hot. Followed by the message. The check engine light hasn’t come on to get any code. Anyone have any idea what else I could try to replace? I’ve replaced nearly the entire cooling system. What else could it be?
 
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Sounds like you may have an issue with one or both of the coolant temp sensors. There are hundreds of threads that deal with this. Do a search using one or the other warning messages as your search term.


Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
@Blasirl i changed both today. The temp sensor on the passenger side was corroded. The other was fine but replaced anyway. Used tin and not gold. Upon test drive the same symptoms came back. Going to change the passenger side to a gold sensor tomorrow and see if that changes anything. I’ve tried googling the symptoms/messages and replaced everything it could be that I’ve seen. Any other ideas?
 
@Blasirl i changed both today. The temp sensor on the passenger side was corroded. The other was fine but replaced anyway. Used tin and not gold. Upon test drive the same symptoms came back. Going to change the passenger side to a gold sensor tomorrow and see if that changes anything. I’ve tried googling the symptoms/messages and replaced everything it could be that I’ve seen. Any other ideas?
Did you read the link I posted along with the links in it?
 
@Blasirl Yes I did. Will try the gold terminals with the water outlet. Would the tin terminal being there make it have the same problem? I didn’t think it would make a difference.
All I know is everywhere I have looked, they specify the different terminals. As to why I am not sure, but I follow the advice.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Update: Changed the coolant temp sensors.
Gold terminals - water outlet
Tin terminals - radiator
However it continues to overheat. Still no check engine light. Going to try a radiator flush possibly. If anyone has ideas lmk.
 
Update: Changed the coolant temp sensors.
Gold terminals - water outlet
Tin terminals - radiator
However it continues to overheat. Still no check engine light. Going to try a radiator flush possibly. If anyone has ideas lmk.
when you say “fan runs fine” what is your definition of fine?
 
View attachment 294107
Do you know what volt this fuse it by chance? I broke it by accident checking fuses. It’s 30 amp but not sure the voltage. Didn’t see it on the panel.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
when you say “fan runs fine” what is your definition of fine?
When the engine gets hot it kicks itself on and off according to what is needed. The fan itself hasn’t shown any signs of being damaged/broken. I finally got a check engine light that said “Engine Coolant Flow Low/Performance.” I’m going to try to take out the radiator and heater core. See if they need replacing/cleaning.
 
When the engine gets hot it kicks itself on and off according to what is needed. The fan itself hasn’t shown any signs of being damaged/broken. I finally got a check engine light that said “Engine Coolant Flow Low/Performance.” I’m going to try to take out the radiator and heater core. See if they need replacing/cleaning.
If the fan is turning on high, then off, and high again then you might consider replacing your fan. You can test the fan resistors at the connector.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Update: the radiator and fan check out good. Got the car put back together and the problem seems to be getting worse. Still overheating but seems to be quicker to overheat than before. It also has misfired on me causing the check engine light to blink along with traction control and vehicle shaking. Turned it off and turned it back on. It started fine and the check engine light flashing and traction message were gone. If anyone has had an trouble like this please send any thoughts you might have on it. Not sure what else to check at this point.
 
I am literally dealing with this same exact problem and just discovered the coolant in the spark plug well, Did you rebuild or just replace the engine??
I am also dealing with this issue very badly. 2014 Chevy Cruze LT 1.4L turbo. Not sure whether to replace the head gasket, replace the engine, or just sell the car as it is and purchase something older with more miles on it. If you come across anything that works, please let me know!
 
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