[15cruzediesel]

How old is the timing belt and miles?

Stretched belt or worn tensioner is something to check.

 

[15cruzediesel]

timing belt would have about 20xxxkm. Is there a way to check if it has stretched?

That is about 10k miles so I'm guessing it was replaced recently.

Watch this video or at least skip to the tensioner adjustment. The arrow on your tensioner should be as shown in the video.

 

[15cruzediesel]

I don't see how a stretched timing belt or elongated chain could set that code. But remember, it's a circuit code, so you need to carefully examine the wiring harness and connectors as well.

It works with the crankshaft sensor. If there is enough slack, the cam sensor will lag in relation to the crankshaft sensor postion. Position of the crank that is. If it doesn't correlate the code will be set. One of several ways to set the code.

At this point, cam timing (valve opening) isn't correct and you generally will see what the OP is experiencing and possibly worse, IF indeed it is a mechanical issue with the low mileage belt. Don't know if it is the OG or recently replaced.

Unfortunately, the OP, needed to post way more detail about the issue, the car and why sensors were replaced.

 

[15cruzediesel]

I'm pretty sure that would set P0016/17/18/19 (18 and 19 being for bank 2 on a V engine).

P0341 is different, it has to do with the performance of the sensor itself and not the relationship between expected and measured cam position.

It wouldn't surprise me if any of those codes are pending.

 

[15cruzediesel]

That might be, but it still wouldn't mean that P0341 is caused by the same thing that sets P0016/17. If it was then they'd all show MIL active at the same time because they all do that on the second key cycle that sees the fault.

It's really common for people to change a cam or crank sensor when they see a cam or crank sensor circuit code such as this one, without checking the circuit first, and then start chasing other things wondering what they've missed. It makes sense, really, because a lot of other sensors have separate diagnostic codes for a sensor fault vs. a circuit fault. But the cam and crank sensors are different, they're circuit codes that can get set by a sensor fault.

Ultimately, when it comes to codes, nothing can nor should be ruled out.

I'm actually surprised that it wouldn't go into limp mode and run on stored timing data if it is indeed a circuit fault since mechanically it would be in time. But it is reported to be rough running either way.

Sadly, most people/mechanics are part changers. Not trouble shooters and think the specific code means a specific part or circuit is bad. Worst seem to be the dealerships.

Given that code and that low mileage on the belt ( I'm assuming it was changed recently) I for sure would check the tension after I used an oscope on both of these sensors signal wires looking at no less than a 720 degree sweep of data. I also wouldn't check it at the sensor. It'd be as close to if not at the ecu.

But ultimately, I think loss of tach signal might be the cause of the code and stability link issue.

It has to be either sensor, wiring, ecu or belt tension. Hard part is figuring out which one.

If the OP is still engaged with this thread, that is what needs to be done.