[12ecofamilycar]

I’ve had this issue before in the summer and change the water pump and reservoir cap. It’s been running really well all winter until today when the upper hose collapsed. I fixed the issue, primed the hoses to make sure I got all the air out the system and now all the coolant is bubbling out again. Thought I put too much and than the tank was empty. Any thoughts?

Hi, Do you mean the coolant in the reservoir is boiling, or it is bubbling where the small hose enters the reservoir?
The coolant system has to be under pressure, up to 20psi to keep the coolant from overheating. So anywhere you have a weak hose or connection, that pressure will be released, and maybe not a huge leak, just a drip will cause a pressure drop. That is why you will see the temperature cycling from 212f up to 235f, the pressure is building then leaking.
Check all hose connections for dried or wet orange goo, dexcool exposed to air. With a cool engine, reach under reservoir for that goo. If there, the reserv cap is leaking under pressure. Check the turbo coolant feed line, it's half rubber hose and half metal line and the joint is a common fail. (Behind the heat shield). The engine coolant outlet(small hose connects to it) is a common fail point, plastic cracks and leaks under clamp pressure.
Do you lose coolant and have to top off reserv regularly? Any puddle under car? Post pics and let us know.
It is very important....overheating a 1.4 can be real bad.
Btw, when bleeding system, level car, open radiator air bleed screw (passenger side of radiator facing engine toward top) while filling reservoir and close it when coolant starts coming out. Then start engine and keep coolant 1 inch above lower reservoir hose top (cold engine level mark) until steady level, put res cap on and bring engine up to op temp. Take a ride and re-check level for couple days to make sure. Hot engine coolant level is the line an inch or so below the reservoir seam.
Use 50/50 mix gm Dexcool approved orange coolant only.

 

[12ecofamilycar]

It’s a pressurized system so the hose should NEVER collapse, it should expand slightly. If you have what you call an oily substance in the coolant then you have a problem somewhere. You should never be getting oil into the coolant. It’s coming from the engine somewhere. I still strongly suggest you check your oil for signs of coolant in it and I still suggest testing for combustion gasses in the coolant.

I wonder if OP means fail(collapse), and could be coolant outlet upper hose plastic connection fracturing under the constant pressure clamp.

I have never over heated the vehicle and I have no signs of blown head gasket. I catch it right before it runs out of coolant. In the summer it was the reservoir cap and I replaced it and it was fine. Today the upper radiator hose collapsed and coolant went everywhere. Put a new hose on and primed system and I can squeeze the hoses but I feel coolant running. The lower hose def needs to be replaced for sure. Found some floating yellow “oily” spots in the reservoir and some gunk is built up in it too. Was gonna take it for a coolant flush. I use dex cool, the orange stuff made specifically for GM. At least summer isn’t here yet but I’m in awe that the problem has arisen, yet again

What do you mean when saying "prime system"? When working on coolant system it is important to drain for repair, then fill and bleed.

 

[12ecofamilycar]

I have never over heated the vehicle and I have no signs of blown head gasket. I catch it right before it runs out of coolant. In the summer it was the reservoir cap and I replaced it and it was fine. Today the upper radiator hose collapsed and coolant went everywhere. Put a new hose on and primed system and I can squeeze the hoses but I feel coolant running. The lower hose def needs to be replaced for sure. Found some floating yellow “oily” spots in the reservoir and some gunk is built up in it too. Was gonna take it for a coolant flush. I use dex cool, the orange stuff made specifically for GM. At least summer isn’t here yet but I’m in awe that the problem has arisen, yet again

Just for awarness, to drain coolant system, the drain petcock is on the bottom passenger edge of the radiator. Remove 2 screws from the front under splash shield and pull it down a bit to access the bottom of radiator. You can connect a small hose, then unscrew the valve and drain.
The drain/fill process has specific steps to avoid having air pockets in the system. There is only appr 1.5 gallons of coolant in the system so no room for error with the 1.4 engine imho.

 

[12ecofamilycar]

Because I had this problem before except the coolant bubbled and I replaced the reservoir cap and it was fine. Now the upper hose busted open and I changed it and the problem occurred again when it was fine after changing the cap. I just got it flushed and now the res out is overflowing

Did you do the flush or a repair shop?
Did any debris come out of the coolant system when it was flushed?
What does "reservoir out overflowing" mean?
When re-filling the system with dexcool, are you following the proper steps to make sure there are no air pockets?
Does your cabin heater core work really well, vents blow nice hot air into cabin?
It seems that we are trying to find a blockage, and I know it may be expensive, but bringing the car to a mechanic for help might be a good idea.

 

[12ecofamilycar]

As was mentioned, it would be wise to do the combustion gas in coolant test. This could be the root cause of creation of globs that are causing blockage. A good thing to eliminate from the list of causes, when troubleshooting, to say the least.

It's an inexpensive easy test as well diy.