[Diesel4Ever]

How many degrees front camber are you guys running on your lowered Cruze.

I just had the Bilstein B12 kit installed and need to correct the camber. What bolts and how many degrees is ideal? Gonna get these for the job: More Information for MEVOTECH MS90002

 

[MP81]

It's not a Cruze, but on my Cobalt I run about -1.5 or -2.0 degrees on a 2 inch drop. If I were to drop the Cruze, I'd probably run about that.

 

[snowwy66]

Unless your planning on playing on the oval track. Keep your camber as close to zero as possible. Unless you don't care about tire wear.

Camber pulls to most positive side. A good camber is left side .25 positive to right side. To offset for road crown to the right for water to runoff to the drains.

Now here's something none of you think about. Your alignment will change with weight.

Align the car. Then sit in car. Your alignment will change.

The farther away from zero. The more your tire leans. The faster tires wear.

Zero camber is tire straight up and down. Maximum tire wear.

 

[Diesel4Ever]

My mechanic said -1.0 is usually good. That's what I was thinking but need a camber bolt kit to get it there.

 

[MP81]

Unless your planning on playing on the oval track. Keep your camber as close to zero as possible. Unless you don't care about tire wear.

Most manufacturer specs have camber specs that favor negative camber heavily, and do not specify zero. That's because slight negative camber assists in any kind of turn. Oval track cars run significant positive camber on the inside tire only. Look at one of those cars on a road course, and you'll see both tires are cambered in (negative), instead.

With all the camber I run on my Cobalt - I will be on my sixth season with my 200 treadwear (extreme performance summer) tires, and there is ZERO excessive wear on the inner portion of the tire. That is specifically the kind of tires that should and will show excessive wear. They do not, because it is not excessive.

Excessive camber will wear the tire, sure, but anything short of 2 degrees is not excessive, at all, by any means.

Here's a great post showing the alignment specs of the Cruzes, including the Gen 1 CTD: Alignment

Front camber, on the 1st gen CTD: -1.3 to +0.2 is the spec.

My mechanic said -1.0 is usually good. That's what I was thinking but need a camber bolt kit to get it there.

That would be a perfect amount of negative camber - and is right in the Cruze's specs.

 

[snowwy66]

Most manufacturer specs have camber specs that favor negative camber heavily, and do not specify zero. That's because slight negative camber assists in any kind of turn. Oval track cars run significant positive camber on the inside tire only. Look at one of those cars on a road course, and you'll see both tires are cambered in (negative), instead.

With all the camber I run on my Cobalt - I will be on my sixth season with my 200 treadwear (extreme performance summer) tires, and there is ZERO excessive wear on the inner portion of the tire. That is specifically the kind of tires that should and will show excessive wear. They do not, because it is not excessive.

Excessive camber will wear the tire, sure, but anything short of 2 degrees is not excessive, at all, by any means.

Here's a great post showing the alignment specs of the Cruzes, including the Gen 1 CTD: Alignment

Front camber, on the 1st gen CTD: -1.3 to +0.2 is the spec.



That would be a perfect amount of negative camber - and is right in the Cruze's specs.

I'm well aware of what manufactures specify. I wrenched for 12 years. I just didn't go in to detail on this forum for people that don't do alignments on a regular basis.

What manufactures specify is also on a stock system. Not lowered.

-1 is not heavy. Throw the driver in and they're close to zero. Your tires angle out every time you're in a turn. Now your positive camber.

My cavalier didn't make it a year on tires with -2. Struts aren't adjustable. I notched em. Set em close to zero and adjusted toe.