[BoostedLuxoBlue]

Unfortunately I don't own an impact, I thought about getting one for this job instead of buying all these useless special tools that I would only use once but I thought about it, zapping the bolt off would be just fine, but how about getting it back in? The impacts that are rated high enough to zip that bolt off are rated high enough to over torque it.

I may be wrong with the screwdriver but with that much force it could possibly break against the engine cover. I even recall seeing another guy on this forum who did it and causes damage to his engine when a metal piece took detached off the cover somehow.

Impact drivers don’t really work like it sounds like you think they do. They’re not a 0 to 100 instant torque kind of thing. They slowly deliver more and more torque the longer you hold the trigger and let it ugga dugga

 

[BoostedLuxoBlue]

Although I'd admit I don't have a full understanding of how impacts fully work, the impact I've looked at, which can handle the crankshaft bolt, like the Dewalt DCF900 can easily over torque the bolt with even less of a second of impact (according to Torque Test Channel on YouTube)

Also, getting a weaker impact wouldn't be a good idea since then, the bolt won't budge.

If I may ask, what kind of impact is good for this job? I may be exaggerating and a much weaker impact will do this job and won't have any problems with using it to tighten it.

The Dewalt DCF900 is way wayyyyyy more tool than needed for this job. Very few things on a car need a 1/2in impact driver. That’s like building bridges and farm equipment power haha.
But any impact can be made ‘weaker’ if you just don’t pull the trigger all the way. They work the same way an electric drill works. But I use a cordless 14v 1/4in Snap-On impact (CT825) and a cordless 20v 3/8in Bauer impact you can pickup at Harbor Freight for like $50 I think it was maybe. Both of those can handle anything pretty much everything besides lugs and suspension components which I do have a 1/2in impact for.

• Bauer specs are 325ft-lbs breakaway torque
• Snap-On specs are 100ft-lbs of breakaway torque and 70ft-lbs of working torque. Which the crank pulley bolts are like 110ft-lbs plus 45-60° if I remember right.

 

[BoostedLuxoBlue]

I was kind of hoping to see a flywheel holding tool for the 1.4 that goes where the starter is, similar to what I use on my Duramax, but found nothing.

I used what I had available at the time. Again, this doesnt have to be complicated.

I just use one of these. $23 on Amazon and use it on literally any car I do a clutch job on. Works perfect on my Cruze and Mitsubishi Evo plus Subies and an handful of others even a 2022 Supra last week. Highly recommend.

Amazon.com

 

[BoostedLuxoBlue]

Would the DCF891/DCF921 be a good choice? I just want it to take off lugs and brakes stuff and also this crankbolt

The 891 would still be overkill here. The 921 would be more than sufficient for pretty much anything you could throw at it. That is actually what one of my 1/2in impacts I use is. For one it is pretty light in comparison to other 1/2in impacts out there but also the compactness allows you to work in places that most others just can’t fit into.

Now just for reference here, the torque range for light duty vehicles and fasteners is like 30-150 ft lbs. Anything around 100ft lbs is serious business. Even lugs, flywheel bolts, brake parts etc are around the 100 ft lb range.

 

[BoostedLuxoBlue]

Oh wow, I was pretty sure that even the 891 won't take the crank off and you're saying the 921 will do, that's some good news for me and I'll maybe just consider getting that instead of those stupid tools, and also using it to tighten won't be a problem since it's not as strong as the bigger ones.

I know honda crank bolt won't budge with anything that isn't a 891 or 900 because it is tighten like crazy but hopefully it will be sufficient to most private vehicles....

The 891 has like 800 ft lbs of breakaway torque. Thats around 8x what you’d need here lol. The 921 has 450 ft lbs of breakaway and still 300 ft lbs for fastening so still more than capable to do this job. Yeah Honda crank pulley bolts are stupid…why they tighten them to like 250 ft lbs I have no idea. Although those things last forever so maybe they’re on to something there lol.

So yeah I’d definitely suggest the 921 for you and save the extra and invest in a breaker bar maybe for places you can’t get to with an impact.

 

[BoostedLuxoBlue]

You really don't need special tools to replace the crankshaft seal. Remove the belt. ZAP the crankshaft bolt out with an impact. Change the seal. Put the pulley back on. Use a large screwdriver to give the crank pulley some resistance. And ZAP a new crankshaft bolt back in.

A pry bar and a rag or piece of old t-**** on the pulley so it’s not metal-on-metal here works far far better than a screwdriver. For anybody using an impact you really don’t need that much force if any on the pulley to remove/replace the bolt. A torque wrench or breaker bar is a different story.

 

[BoostedLuxoBlue]

What is the part number for the o-ring seal?

O-ring seal? You mean the crankshaft rear main seal?

 

[BoostedLuxoBlue]

O-ring seal? You mean the crankshaft rear main seal?

View attachment 310754 That one 🙏

GM 90325571

 

[BoostedLuxoBlue]

GM 90325571

View attachment 310762 The part they you send is the one marked at red in the picture above..
I’m looking for the one marked in green in the second
View attachment 310763

Front Crankshaft Seal GM 29626