OOPS - Destroyed fill plug on transmission

diesel · Oct 24, 2016

MRO1791 said:
The fill plug is on top, that picture is the level plug, inside the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission..

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Hmm, I thought it looked a bit different. I may have just ordered the wrong thing.

diesel · Oct 24, 2016

OK, this is the right part number 11099271

boraz · Oct 24, 2016

fuuu....yeah i thinking drain plug lol.

diesel · Oct 24, 2016

boraz said:
fuuu....yeah i thinking drain plug lol.

No prob.

That huge plug has such a tiny opening. No wonder they strip out.

Greggul8r · Oct 24, 2016

I have used with very good luck a product called Q-Bond with the nut on a bolt sort of thing the stuff is amazing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PVOdRx4SSA

boraz · Oct 24, 2016

diesel said:
No prob.

That huge plug has such a tiny opening. No wonder they strip out.

iirc, i couldnt get a straight shot at it, using extensions and something was in the way

MRO1791 · Oct 24, 2016

Now that I see it, I recall for sure mine was internal hex, not torx. Perhaps the original had at some point been stripped out on that car... That said, clearly there exists an internal hex plug that fits, and it on could find and use that, seems it would be better.. AW-40 trans on Volvo XC-70, Ford Fusion, several Saab cars.. might be worth it to get it..

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diesel · Oct 24, 2016

Greggul8r said:
I have used with very good luck a product called Q-Bond with the nut on a bolt sort of thing the stuff is amazing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PVOdRx4SSA

Thanks for the tip, but he said in the video it was rated at 356 degrees and 1300 PSI, but the JB Weld is rated at like 3960 PSI and 550 degrees.

boraz said:
iirc, i couldnt get a straight shot at it, using extensions and something was in the way

Yeah, there's some cable/hose thing in the way that you have to push on to clear the opening.

MRO1791 said:
Now that I see it, I recall for sure mine was internal hex, not torx. Perhaps the original had at some point been stripped out on that car... That said, clearly there exists an internal hex plug that fits, and it on could find and use that, seems it would be better.. AW-40 trans on Volvo XC-70, Ford Fusion, several Saab cars.. might be worth it to get it..

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On the saab forums, it says to use a T55, however I have seen some stuff written that says the size was changed at some point. It's a bit of a mystery. i am pretty sure that the replacement part is not a hex though. (Picture in post #22)

MRO1791 · Oct 24, 2016

That cable in the way is the shift cable for the transmission. It can be released from that bracket (squeeze the plastic release tabs) and moved over without full disconnect. There's enough slack that it can be safely pushed aside and that provides good access to that fill plug.

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diesel · Oct 31, 2016

Well, it's on to plan C. I JB Welded the T50 into the hole, let it cure for 24 hours and took an impact wrench to it. It tried really hard, but eventually i just ended up with a bunch of little pieces of JB Weld. I then managed to get lock pliers on it, and it would not turn. I am out of ideas. I might still trying to get a nut on the top of it. Any other suggestions welcomed.

MP81 · Oct 31, 2016

If it is taking that much effort, I'm beginning to wonder if you cross-threaded it.

It's not that tight of a plug, usually, so even if you got any torque on the T50 to turn it, prior to the JB weld coming apart, it should have loosened some, at least.

Chris Tobin · Oct 31, 2016

MP81 said:
If it is taking that much effort, I'm beginning to wonder if you cross-threaded it.

It's not that tight of a plug, usually, so even if you got any torque on the T50 to turn it, prior to the JB weld coming apart, it should have loosened some, at least.

I agree... A fill plug should never be THAT tight!!!

IndyDiesel · Oct 31, 2016

diesel said:
Well, it's on to plan C. I JB Welded the T50 into the hole, let it cure for 24 hours and took an impact wrench to it. It tried really hard, but eventually i just ended up with a bunch of little pieces of JB Weld. I then managed to get lock pliers on it, and it would not turn. I am out of ideas. I might still trying to get a nut on the top of it. Any other suggestions welcomed.

This might be to extreme, can you weld a nut on it and then just turn it with a good wrench? I had an exhaust manifold on a f150 that broke some studs off that secure the manifold and that is what they did....realize this is little different. Just an idea

diesel · Oct 31, 2016

MP81 said:
If it is taking that much effort, I'm beginning to wonder if you cross-threaded it.

It's not that tight of a plug, usually, so even if you got any torque on the T50 to turn it, prior to the JB weld coming apart, it should have loosened some, at least.

Chris Tobin said:
I agree... A fill plug should never be THAT tight!!!

When I put it in the last time, it went in nice and easy and I never tightened it too tight. Just gently snug. I think it seized. You know, steel plug, aluminum case.

IndyDiesel said:
This might be to extreme, can you weld a nut on it and then just turn it with a good wrench? I had an exhaust manifold on a f150 that broke some studs off that secure the manifold and that is what they did....realize this is little different. Just an idea

I would do that if I knew how to weld. That's mainly why the JB Weld. I suppose the next step is to JB Weld a nut on top of it and see if that is able to withstand any more torque.

MRO1791 · Oct 31, 2016

Oh, if using any form of epoxy, stay away from impact wrench. Use a long extension and cheater bar for more torque. The impact action will not work well with an epoxy bond or general more brittle nature of the epoxy itself.

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MRO1791 · Oct 31, 2016

If you have a hole with some depth, consider a screw extractor, sometimes known as an easy out. You could even over size the whole with a drill, preferably a reverse drill. Application of considerable breakfree and even heating/cooling may help as well. If you can heat the plug and surrounding case, then cool the plug with ice rapidly it should also help.

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Chris Tobin · Oct 31, 2016

diesel said:
When I put it in the last time, it went in nice and easy and I never tightened it too tight. Just gently snug. I think it seized. You know, steel plug, aluminum case.

I would do that if I knew how to weld. That's mainly why the JB Weld. I suppose the next step is to JB Weld a nut on top of it and see if that is able to withstand any more torque.

It is hard to believe that it would seize that badly... Maybe try applying heat and or penetrant to help loosen it. I don't know that I would want to try to weld on it... To many things in the car that could be damaged by the high-voltage/high-current charge of the welder. Try an EZ-Out or try the JB Weld again. Also using constant pressure rather than the impact as stated above. And be sure it is VERY clean before applying the JB Weld or it will not bond well.

Another thing you MAY be able to try is cutting a slot in it with a Dremel-type tool and then using a large slotted screwdriver.

You may end up having to drill it out...

diesel · Oct 31, 2016

Thanks for all the tips. I am afraid to drill it, because if I break through, well, then I now have drill shavings in my transmission. I probably won't take another shot at it for a while. It's going to the body shop next week and then probably to the dealer after that.

JRB'sOilburningCruze · Oct 31, 2016

I'd try a T-55 and get a T-50 Plus & T-55 Plus. You can order them off of Amazon. Get a good one. I recommend SK, they are not cheap but are good tools.

The transmission bell housing bolts on the 4L60-E are T-50 Plus. I realize the 4L60 is not an Aisin transmission, but the Torx Plus bolts seem to be a bit more common in applications like that. If that does not work, buy a new drain plug first and see if you can bump the old one out with an air chisel.

Have fun and go slow!!

IndyDiesel · Oct 31, 2016

diesel said:
Thanks for all the tips. I am afraid to drill it, because if I break through, well, then I now have drill shavings in my transmission. I probably won't take another shot at it for a while. It's going to the body shop next week and then probably to the dealer after that.

Maybe while it's in body shop take some really clear pics and stop by a transmission shop and ask for some recommendations. We are all lazy boy chair guessing here, perhaps someone that does this sort of thing for a living have addressed your issues before, or take it to a professional before you cause more damage than you already have... or maybe they would remove a transmission line and pump ou the old fluid and pump new fluid in and do an exchange that way until you can figure the plug out.

OOPS - Destroyed fill plug on transmission

diesel

diesel

boraz

diesel

Greggul8r

boraz

MRO1791

diesel

MRO1791

diesel

MP81

Chris Tobin

IndyDiesel

diesel

MRO1791

MRO1791

Chris Tobin

diesel

JRB'sOilburningCruze

IndyDiesel

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