I would first check and/or replace the cabin air filter. Then have the AC pressure tested. You're probably just low on refrigerant. All systems lose a very small amount past the compressor seal and eventually need recharging.

 

Nothing lasts forever. Including freon.

It gets weak and turns to air.

Take it to a shop. Have them evac and recharge with the appropriate amount. (It's the new rules anyways) It'll work better then it ever did from day one. Most systems after 2010 don't hold a full charge for some reason.

Using a can. You're playing with trouble AND allowing air in to the system. NO. You're can't use the gauge to determine charge. You need the high side gauge.

 

I do an evac and recharge on my A/C every couple years. You don't necessarily need to take it to a shop if you're willing to invest in the proper tools. You'll need to have an A/C manifold Guage set and a vacuum pump at minimum.

 

FIX: Excessive Moisture/Condensation/Frost on Windows

For some time now there have been many Cruze owners posting about excess moisture inside their Cruze, leading to foggy or frosted up windows that compromise outward visibility. My car was no different and I assumed, as most did, that it was somehow related to the small engine not putting out a...

www.cruzetalk.com

Make sure this flap is closing fully. On the coldest setting on the temp dial, it should close fully. One click up on the temp knob, it should open automatically and go to fresh air mode (unless you have recirc button pressed).

On the coldest temp setting, the recirc button is ignored. Think of it as a "Max AC" mode older cars used to have.

 

Check your condenser cleanliness. **** those cotton wood trees and bugs. Good airflow is a must for both the condenser and the evaporator (cabin airfilter). Also ac systems are really designed to cool 10-15 degrees below outside temp. The hotter it is outside the less cooling occurs. The record temps across the nation aren't helping any.

 

Check your condenser cleanliness. **** those cotton wood trees and bugs. Good airflow is a must for both the condenser and the evaporator (cabin airfilter). Also ac systems are really designed to cool 10-15 degrees below outside temp. The hotter it is outside the less cooling occurs. The record temps across the nation aren't helping any.

Home AC systems, yes. They are typically sized to keep around a 20F range from outside temp delta to control indoor humidity (probably sized larger in the SW US), and you'll see an 18-22F drop in interior air from return to vent. So a system sized for 95 degree days here on the East Coast can keep it a comfortable 73-75F inside on those days when running non-stop.

Car ACs aren't as powerful as they used to be, but they're still oversized and should be capable of cooling the interior of a car to a comfortable 70-75F even when it's 110F outside. As snowwy said, vent temps 45F and lower are normal for a car air conditioner. Today's variable displacement compressors help with fuel efficiency by only giving you the amount of cooling that you need to maintain interior temp instead of cycling a clutch on and off - full power for cooling off a hot car on a hot day, and then they decrease displacement as you turn down fan speed and the incoming/cabin air temp begins to cool down.

 

134 expands with heat. Pressure increases. Efficiency increases. Up to a point before overcharge kicks in.

134 contracts with cold. Pressure decreases.

A perfectly charged system will blow cool at 75*. Gets cooler at 100*.

When my system works better at 75 then 100. It tells me I'm one ounce low. Or high if the case may be.

My system blows cool and somewhat muggy at 75. I have no problem getting 43 - 41* fresh air out my vents at 100*.

R12 would get me 37.