[Blasirl]

Hello all,
My car started running poorly with the check engine light flashing. The codes P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P2301 (Ign. coil A primary control circuit high), P0351 (ign. coil A primary/secondary circuit). I replaced the coil and the spark plugs The car ran perfectly fine for two days and then it happened again, with the same codes. I then exchanged the coil and the car ran fine everyday for about one week and then the same codes again and running poorly, but this time the coil completely burnt out the side smoking pretty good at cylinder one. I'm sure something is causing my coils to short out. I physically hand traced the wires from the ignition coil to the ECM, ground and fuse panel. The wires are in good condition with no breaks, melting or chaffing. I also checked the resistance from end to end unplugged on each of the wires and had low resistance on each one. The pins on both ends of the harness are free of corrosion. The one thing I have noticed is that when the key is on and the engine not running, coils 2, 3, and 4 all have 10mV coming from the ECM, coil number 1 has 58mV. That is with coil disconnected. The power wire is good. The ground is good, and the low reference ground is good. Is this a clear indication that the ECM is to blame for frying the coil? Does anyone know of any other checks I can perform to verify if the ECM is to blame? Has anybody encountered anything similar? Intermittent electrical are issues always difficult. Thank you in advance for any input, advice and wisdom.
Year. 2016 ( Date of manufacture 06/2015)
Engine. 1.4 Turbo EcoTec ( LDV/Tier2)
Miles. 109245
Again Thank you.

So did the fix listed above by Xxviper06xX in post #10 work for you? Has this been solved?

 

[Blasirl]

The leading cause of premature failure of an ignition coil is due to a worn or bad spark plug ignition cable.

There are no coil wires on a COP system.

 

[Blasirl]

Here comes this issue again. I really thought this ECM wiring harness would be my issue. First the car started running rough and mis-firing. I changed the coil pack with new AC Delco pack. It fixed it for probably about 6 months. To be fair it was not driven everyday. Then about July 1st my wife had to drive it everyday to work. Ran fine the entire month of July. Then literally the day after my wife got her car back we started it and the coil pack melted in that 1st location as everyone else's. I thought.. oh.. bad pack. I went to GM and they warranty exchanged it. To be safe I put all new AC Delco plugs in it. Started the car and literally within 1min the new coil pack started smoking and melted in the same place. I found this discussion and thought it would be the issue. I pulled the ECM harness and I have zero continuity between pin 1 and 2... as well as zero from pin 2 to the coil one wire at the coil plug. I get good continuity at from pin one to the coil plug.

I am at a loss. I assume I can not drive it or it might literally catch fire or damage the engine since it is not firing one cylinder. The GM dealer is about 7 miles away so I guess I will have it towed to them in the morning.

Anyone on here have any updates on this issue? Are there any other known causes?

#16-NA-015: Engine Stall or Stumble - Replace Coil Connector - (Jan 21, 2016)

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10112283-9999.pdf

Standard Motor Products S1380 Standard Pigtails & Socke

Standard Motor Products S1380 Standard Pigtails & Socke

autoplicity.com

Pull the ECM connector and look for corrosion. If you have any read this:
Burning up Coil pack

or

Pull off the spark plugs boot and inspect the spring. It should have a resistor pellet integrated into. Measure the resistance of the spring from one end, to the end of the resistor pellet(looks like a tiny fuse or capsule usually). You should have somewhere between 800-1200ohms resistance. If you just have a plain spring, or if the resistance is below 800 or so, that's why you're blowing out coils. (Courtesy of Ma v e n)


And lastly:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10112283-9999.pdf

Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)

Set gap with the black portion of this tool.

To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE IRIDIUM CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.

Measure the gap with feeler gauges.

Throw this away.

Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

-BKR8EIX-2668 (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
-BKR7E-4644 (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read Hesitation Gone! for more info on the plugs.

A good replacement coil is the MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coilpack 8236

How-To: Remove and Replace the Coil Pack and Spark Plugs.

While you are in there, if you have a cheap endoscope, look at the pistons. This can also tell you many things.

 

[Blasirl]

This could be due to a bad coil ground

coil ground