[geddinwk]

I have swapped my balancer numerous times and replaced the seal once but may do it again soon and thought I would chime in.
I did not remove the wheel liner. There is no press-fit, just a ginormous bolt.

Also note that the stock seal is a lip design that requires a slight vacuum on in the crankcase to not leak. If you have PCV issues that prevent crankcase vacuum or god-forbid introduce pressure, the front crank seal will leak. The rear seal is a standard spring-loaded seal that does not require vacuum. (would probably not be very good for the clutch).
The new seal that I got from the dealer was the same as original but the ones from O'Riellys are standard spring loaded.

Depending on what Air-filter intake you have, you may not have to remove it but might want to anyway to make things easier.

1. Set the parking brake first. This is especially needed for step 4.
2. Put a jack on the oil pan to support the engine and remove the passenger side engine mount.
3. Remove the bracket for the mount from the engine that is covering the water pump. This makes the rest of the job MUCH easier.
4. Release the tensioner (eTorx socket) and remove or set aside the belt. If it is a manual trans car, make sure it is in 6th gear so the engine does not rotate. An automatic will require the special crank pin tool or some other method to lock the crank.
5. Remove the Crank pulley bolt - this requires an eTorx socket and breaker bar.
6. Make note of the timing hole so you do not reinstall 180degree off. Maybe even take a picture first.
7. pulley should just slide right out.
8. The seal is a light press-in style and can be removed with flat-blade screwdriver.
9. The new seal can be tapped in with a plastic mallet or a hammer and a piece of wood to protect it from damage. To make it even easier, do the job while the engine is hot and store the new seal in the freezer. Then work quickly to intall the seal before it can warm up.
10. Put a little oil on the new seal.
11. reinstall the balancer making sure the alignment hole is in the same orientation from step 6. It will just slide on to the crank but the Hex oil pump drive will have slidden down and will require the balancer to be rocked in a circular motion to get it to slide back up.
12. Install new or re-use crank bolt. The crank bolt is huge and I would be surprised if it is actually torque to yield. Something that big would be extremely hard to stretch but use your own discretion here. I re-used mine every time.
13. re-install belt if it is still good or replace since you already have it off. You do not want a belt to fail - the engine will overheat almost immediately. Cheap insurance.
14. Reverse bracket and mount removal procedure. use jack to help with alignment.
15. Remove jack.
16. Re-install intake if removed.

This is my first write up and I may edit to add more info/socket sizes/pics

Let me know if I missed anything.

Good luck.

If you oil the new seal it will leak. It should go in dry, in a clean area with a cleaned pulley