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WARRANTY 100k miles!

Hello all, I just want to make it a little clearer and update this post. I just this week had this problem. There is obviously much controversy over if the water outlet is covered under the POWERTRAIN warranty. YES it is. A family car was being driven from the looks of it low on coolant. The gauge would go up and down. Then the inevitable happened. Overheated 1 last time blew open the water outlet car stalled out and now suffers from a no start. I started searching for threads on this issue to see what is and isnt covered and if a water outlet swapped was needed to be done prior to bringing it to the dealer for the stall/no start issue. I called a service department and specifically asked is the water outlet covered under powertrain warranty. The first dealership I called said yes, so I told them Im having an issue. 2012 cruze 60k miles. Call Chevy roadside assistance for a free tow since its a warranty issue. Also the warranty will cover up to 5 days of an enterprise rental car if the dealership needs more then a few hours to do the repair. In this case after they did the water outlet under warranty they had issues getting the car to start. after starting the car smoked out the shop. Heads being removed to be sent out and the internals of the engine are to be inspected. Further diagnosis will happen after the heads are checked. I will try and update with more work needed on this car but the bottom line is YES the water outlet is covered under the 100k mile 5 year powertrain warranty. if you got charged i would call gm corporate and explain it to them and have the dealership issue you a refund and claim the job under warranty like they should have. water outlet is a $30 part plus labor.
free labor
free part
free tow
free rental car if warranty work needs more then 3 hours (water outlet is a 2 hour repair)

Basically the powertrain warranty covers 5 years/100k miles most everything starting from the water outlet working its way in. does not include the hoses connected to the outlet.
 
I found your post when I was looking for an answer to how many caps are on a water pump of a Chevy Cruze. My car is 3.5 years old, has 85000 miles on it = I had to replace the water pump THREE times this year = plus the cap needed to be replaced twice within 2 months. The Chevy Cruze is a bum car!!!
 
Just decided to do my water pump myself instead of having to deal with the dealership. Only thing I'm missing on is the torque for the pulley bolts and the bolts that hold the engine bracket to the block. Can anyone fill me in on this info?
The only issue or problem I had was the return hose from the heater core to the water pump ripped near the water pump nipple when I removed it. Local dealer had one in stock luckily for $25.
Thanks to the OP for this write up.
 
Just decided to do my water pump myself instead of having to deal with the dealership. Only thing I'm missing on is the torque for the pulley bolts and the bolts that hold the engine bracket to the block. Can anyone fill me in on this info?
The only issue or problem I had was the return hose from the heater core to the water pump ripped near the water pump nipple when I removed it. Local dealer had one in stock luckily for $25.
Thanks to the OP for this write up.
So you did have to deal with the Dealership in the end, you are out at least $25 and still don't have it fixed right?
 
Just decided to do my water pump myself instead of having to deal with the dealership. Only thing I'm missing on is the torque for the pulley bolts and the bolts that hold the engine bracket to the block. Can anyone fill me in on this info?
The only issue or problem I had was the return hose from the heater core to the water pump ripped near the water pump nipple when I removed it. Local dealer had one in stock luckily for $25.
Thanks to the OP for this write up.
I do not have torque info but all pump retaining bolts are to be replaced since they are torque to yield. I am aware that there are different INCH pound specs for each fastener and you must use a degree reading torque wrench (to get the yield spec.)

Reuse of bolts or incorrect TTY will guarantee a subsequent failure.

Rob
 
I do not have torque info but all pump retaining bolts are to be replaced since they are torque to yield. I am aware that there are different INCH pound specs for each fastener and you must use a degree reading torque wrench (to get the yield spec.)

Reuse of bolts or incorrect TTY will guarantee a subsequent failure.



Rob
Well guess I'm in for trouble. I did not use new pump bolts as I must have missed that part or it is not mentioned until now. If so is there a part # for the pump bolts? Do they come as a set?
 
No dealing part was ready for pick up when I arrived. It was a simple fix.
How much did the Pump cost. Looking back I would have just taken it in if you are below the 125,000 miles or whatever special coverage comes with that part? I had an Engine rebuilt with used bolts under warranty. 2 weeks later it was back in the shop getting a Boltectomy~
 
How much did the Pump cost. Looking back I would have just taken it in if you are below the 125,000 miles or whatever special coverage comes with that part? I had an Engine rebuilt with used bolts under warranty. 2 weeks later it was back in the shop getting a Boltectomy~
Pump with gasket was $55 with a $5 coupon and 20% off offer this weekend from Advance Auto.

The boltectomy wasn't water pump specific was it? Was there a specific problem you had with the rebuild?

The savings on pump covered the new return hose from the dealer. It was so nice bypassing the service dept. And walking out with part in hand. Rude cashier said that doesn't look like a easy job when she seen the part and I said well maybe not for your techs .
 
Doesn't seem these bolts are readily available. Didn't see them on any gm parts sites either. Does anyone know where to get these bolts?
 
With GM having so many issues with the 1.4L water pumps, I think the AcDelco OEM one comes with the bolts that are to be replaced. I don't doubt that these bolts are Torque to Yield, most of our car is.

However, are they really the key to the leaky water pump issue, or is it GM's attempt at solving the issue by adding more new parts to the parts kit? We may never know the answer to this.

I believe the only way to get them is in certain GM part numbers listed as Water Pump Kit.. I think that's why the factory pump OEM part number is over $100.

Most if not all the aftermarket pumps don't have bolts. The original GM pumps didn't even include gaskets. I remember several people saying their car is still at the dealer, because they didn't order a gasket to go with the new pump. Maybe they fixed this I don't know.

There's several pumps on the market, Gates being one of them in the RockAuto Catalog. To my knowledge they aren't including bolts either.

I strongly believe that the dying water pumps is an issue with cavitation with air being in the system, or the radiator cap o-ring not sealing completely.

Did you support the engine from the top, or the bottom with a floor jack? Just curious how that went. If there' a good spot other than the actual pan. There's enough issues with the thin sealant on the oil pans leaking, not sure I'd want to put any weight on the pan at all. Even if it is just for balance.
 
Held engine up with block of wood and floor jack on oil pan since it was my only option.

Will keep updates with how the reused bolts work out. I drive 100 miles daily for work so if issues are to arise it will be sooner than later. Im at 95k miles now with the first issue with the water pump.
 
Well put on 500 miles in 80+ degrees and not a single change in level of coolant in reservoir. No visible leaks or smelling of coolant either. Temp gauge stays right at the 198-210 range which is normal with the select-a-tune from trifecta.
 
Excellent thread. I bought a used 2013 Cruze with 51,000 miles on it from a relative. Got it pretty cheap. It had not really been maintained properly (I change my oil every 3,000 miles and coolant every 2 years/24,000 miles) and it had sat for long periods of time. After changing what looked like black paint and replacing it with oil (I wound up having to do this every 500 miles 5 times and every 1000 miles 5 times to get all the dirty oil/sludge out of the engine) I immediately flushed the Dexcool out the cooling system (several times) and put in Prestone OAT coolant which says on the jug that it meets the factory warranty. I used the stuff in the yellow jug, NOT the Dexcool. When I first got the car and started changing the oil, I noticed a thick waxy coating on the oil filter cover. Why I didn't recognize it immediately I don't know. After changing the oil about 3 times it hit me. Dexcool!! Unlike ANY other coolant, Dexcool immediately solidifies on contact with air. There was a pinhole leak in the water outlet assembly, liquid Dexcool was dripping down on the oil filter housing and and turning into a solid. When I replaced the Dexcool with Prestone, and got to messing around with the water outlet assembly, scraping off the hardened Dexcool, it started leaking green Prestone. It didn't harden like Dexcool. I replaced the water outlet assembly, and everything was fine for about 15,000 miles.

Then the water pump started leaking. I drove it around town for almost a month that way, continuously topping it off until I had poured 2 more gallons of Prestone through it. So now I'm sure there is NO MORE DEXCOOL in it. The heater works fine. I am now in the process of replacing the water pump. I've gotten everything out of the way, and will pull the pump tomorrow. I'm still not sure whether to get a pump from the dealer, or from Advance, Autozone, O'Reillys, etc. I'm also not sure what kind of gasket sealer to use. I notice it has orange sealer on it from the factory. That means it is a high temp sealer. The 1.4 turbo runs extremely hot to begin with. Way too hot IMO. I'm wondering if this will ever be a reliable car, or if I should sell it as soon as I get it running right again.

As for using a jack and block of wood under the engine, I have done that many times and never had a problem. I do have an engine crane, but that is for removing/installing RWD engines. I have no idea where you would hook the chain, but it would likely be in the way, and dragging that 350 pound crane out of the shed in the back yard and putting it together just isn't worth it for such a small job.

As for Dexcool, or Dexkill as I call it, My issues with that started back in 2005. My sister had bought a new '99 S10 pickup 2.2 engine. In 2005 it begain to overheat badly. I pulled the radiator, and it was packed full of this brown gooey waxy mess. Water would not dissolve it. In fact I couldn't find anything that would dissolve it. I started to replace the radiator, but something seemed wrong. I pulled the thermostat, and it too was plugged up with this stuff. I pulled the water pump, same thing. I finally pulled the heads, and the water jackets in the block were almost completely plugged with this goo. The engine was ruined, with only 110,000 miles on it. I started doing research and found hundreds of people had experienced this problem with GM vehicles. My sister decided to sell the truck rather than put a new engine in it. Then in 2009, I stupidly bought a 2001 Mailbu. Same problem. Heater barely worked (plugged up core) Radiator was plugged up and had to be replaced, then the intake manifold gaskets started leaking, which I also replaced (not a fun job, took me 2 weeks in my spare time) I drove it for 4 years, it ran hot, I was unable to sit in a parking lot with the A/C on, like I can do all day with my Ford Crown Vic, because it would overheat. I'm sure the water jackets were partially plugged with that brown goo that Dexcool turns into.

I swore up and down I would never buy another GM vehicle as long as they were still using Dexkill. But my sister was involved in a serious accident, and is now in a wheelchair and can no longer drive. She needed a van, and to get it she needed to sell the Cruze. The heater worked, so I thought I could save it. And maybe I can. I think I got to it in time. But if this car is going to have to be worked on on a regular basis, it is definitely going on Craigslist.
 
1.4 Turbo Cruze 2011 overheating

I’ve changed the water outlet due to a leak. Still overheating so I changed the overflow resovior, then changed thermostat . Still no help so changed water pump. The car is boiling on right side of car the hose off of thermostat is cold. I pulled vent screw out no fluid coming out?? Anybody help with this losing my mind.
 
If the hose off the thermostat is cold and the engine is overheating, then there is a blockage somewhere between the thermostat hose (toward front) and the smaller hose coming off the back of the water pump. When you changed the water pump was the black plastic part behind the impeller broken? Also, the thermostat on these engines is computer controlled. On older cars coolant temperature alone controlled the thermostat. But these thermostats have an electronic connector on them. I am a vintage car mechanic. I don't understand all the new computer stuff, and don't have the expensive diagnostic equipment and software to check it. I normally drive vintage pre computer cars. I wound up with the Cruze by doing a family member a favor and buying it from them. First I had to replace the water outlet assembly, now the water pump, because it was leaking. The car was still running fine and not overheating, as long as I kept pouring more coolant into it as it leaked out.
 
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