[Kallcium]

Hi, brand new here. I have a 2017 1.4L gas turbo Cruze LT with 90,000 miles. The seemingly common P1101 code popped up and no other codes. It went away once but came back for good. I have read every related post on here and have a few questions. First I have changed the Air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and cleaned the throttle body. Code is still there. I also checked the intake tubes for tightness and checked for vacuum leaks. Everything good there. Also gas mileage has taken a good sized hit.

Now I did find oil in the large diameter air tube by the lower radiator support that leads to the turbo. Is this a symptom of a PCV valve?

How do you remove the tubes from the pcv valves? Looks like quick disconnects but I couldn’t remove them with risking breaking them. I saw another post about using picks but no details and nothing on YouTube - everything comes up as the gen 1 replacement. Do you replace all 3 or is there one that is most likely? Anyone know what thread and diameter bolts the tamper resistant pcv valve bolts are? I just want to replace them with easy to remove bolts? Will need to use vice grips to remove them.

I did see another post about the pcv orifice being clogged and that it’s under the valve cover. Anyone know the part number of that and where it’s located within the cover? Not sure that this would have caused the oil in the air intake tube though. Also I do use good synthetic oil and mostly highway driving, very rarely idling.

Finally, does anyone know what the small black plastic box is that the pcv tube is connected to, that sits on the upper air intake tube? I see a crack in it. See photos. Could be some unmetered air getting in causing a code, but with ether start, it did not appear to be sucking in outside air.

I will only change the MAF sensor if all else fails. It doesn’t seem to be the issue with the symptoms I have and cleaning already performed.

 

[Kallcium]

Well I spoke to soon. I didn’t erase the code but after cleaning the throttle body and a long drive the service engine soon light went off on its own and never came back.

That still leaves me with oil in the intake tube leading to the turbo by the lower radiator support. Can anyone confirm that this is most likely the pcv valves going bad?

How do you get the pcv valve tube connectors off the pcv valve? Rock auto sells the pcv valves separately, you don’t need to buy the whole assembly.

 

[Jr$💪cruze💪ls]

I have the same problem on my 2018 chevy cruze ls 1.4 turbo the p1101 came up I changed the air filter the maf sensor and it went off passed inspection 5 minutes right after it went off I leave the garage and it came back on and only was at the garage 20 minutes and hasn't went off since and when idling it sound like loosing power and will shut off and when the p1101 popped up it said manufacturers control and it is terrible on gas if there is any pointers you can send my way on what it possibly could be would be very much appreciated because I originally bought it for my wife but she won't drive it because she is afraid she is gonna get stranded somewhere and gets nervous from the rough idle like I can be sitting at the stop light waiting for it to turn green and the car idles high and trys to jerk forward like your in a twin turbo drag car bumping In on the line to build boost then idles low I use the best synthetic oil I can buy and still am puzzled and just wanna have the car running right so my wife can enjoy it and and go places with the kids and not have to be nervous thinking gonna break down in the middle of nowhere with the kids hopefully you have yours fixed and running 100%

 

[sally body]

2017 Chevy Cruze Premier Hatchback
HMMMM i seem to have the exact same problem as both of you folks and dread pulling the camshaft cover and read every thread for the last two days and no one has anything on pulling this cover. There is a bulletin from GM Bulletin No.: 20-NA-047. Has anyone found a solution? I cleaned Throttle body checked all hoses etc... And there are no vacuum leaks and i only get a P1101 code once in a while and it will go away for a week or two then come back. Car seems to idle ok too

Car has 62,000 miles and I found a little oil Stain on the Lower hose to the cooler from the turbo and cleaned it up, It didn’t amount to a quarter of a tea spoon form all the holes pulled from the air box to the turbo to the cooler and no oil in the cooler to the throttle body; there didn’t seam to have any oil in the cooler and the car does not consume oil, I use good synthetic oil every 6 to 7000 miles

I have a scanner with me hooked up monitoring it for the last two weeks. Also what is odd is all my ready sensors are OK except the evap. for the gas tank, but never throws a code, HMMMMM My Vacuum at start up at the dipstick with a water Manometer is at 0 then after it heats up at idle it is -.5 Inches of water column. HMMM would like to see it at -3 to 5 IWC but i don't know if this 1.4L turbo is even capably of that even thou the bulletin says it is.

The tamper proof bolts on the two PCV are bullshit by GM and i can't believe what i have to do to change these on top of the tapper proof lines to them UGHHHH. I may have to pull the Camshaft Cover to check the PCV orifice and clean it and buy all the gaskets and PCV's and lines if i am going to pull the cover i will replace everything. Anyone have any suggestion.
Thank You In advance

 

[Kallcium]

Here is an update for me. From my last post the code eventually did come back. I ended up cleaning the Throttle body without removing it since I didn't have a gasket. It did have carbon all around it. That made the code immediately go away for several months, but it just came back again. I think I will try removing the throttle body to fully clean it. I might even remove the valve cover and see if the pcv orifice is clogged. No local parts stores carry these so I will have to order from rock auto. Once I find time to do this I will post any results so hopefully to help someone else (might be weeks or months before I get to it though).

If anyone comes across this, I really would appreciate it if you could answer some of the unanswered questions in my first post. Thanks!

 

[Kallcium]

I have the same problem on my 2018 chevy cruze ls 1.4 turbo the p1101 came up I changed the air filter the maf sensor and it went off passed inspection 5 minutes right after it went off I leave the garage and it came back on and only was at the garage 20 minutes and hasn't went off since and when idling it sound like loosing power and will shut off and when the p1101 popped up it said manufacturers control and it is terrible on gas if there is any pointers you can send my way on what it possibly could be would be very much appreciated because I originally bought it for my wife but she won't drive it because she is afraid she is gonna get stranded somewhere and gets nervous from the rough idle like I can be sitting at the stop light waiting for it to turn green and the car idles high and trys to jerk forward like your in a twin turbo drag car bumping In on the line to build boost then idles low I use the best synthetic oil I can buy and still am puzzled and just wanna have the car running right so my wife can enjoy it and and go places with the kids and not have to be nervous thinking gonna break down in the middle of nowhere with the kids hopefully you have yours fixed and running 100%

@Jr$💪cruze💪ls Please let me know what you found and post any results if you have this fixed.

 

[Kallcium]

2017 Chevy Cruze Premier Hatchback
HMMMM i seem to have the exact same problem as both of you folks and dread pulling the camshaft cover and read every thread for the last two days and no one has anything on pulling this cover. There is a bulletin from GM Bulletin No.: 20-NA-047. Has anyone found a solution? I cleaned Throttle body checked all hoses etc... And there are no vacuum leaks and i only get a P1101 code once in a while and it will go away for a week or two then come back. Car seems to idle ok too

Car has 62,000 miles and I found a little oil Stain on the Lower hose to the cooler from the turbo and cleaned it up, It didn’t amount to a quarter of a tea spoon form all the holes pulled from the air box to the turbo to the cooler and no oil in the cooler to the throttle body; there didn’t seam to have any oil in the cooler and the car does not consume oil, I use good synthetic oil every 6 to 7000 miles

I have a scanner with me hooked up monitoring it for the last two weeks. Also what is odd is all my ready sensors are OK except the evap. for the gas tank, but never throws a code, HMMMMM My Vacuum at start up at the dipstick with a water Manometer is at 0 then after it heats up at idle it is -.5 Inches of water column. HMMM would like to see it at -3 to 5 IWC but i don't know if this 1.4L turbo is even capably of that even thou the bulletin says it is.

The tamper proof bolts on the two PCV are bullshit by GM and i can't believe what i have to do to change these on top of the tapper proof lines to them UGHHHH. I may have to pull the Camshaft Cover to check the PCV orifice and clean it and buy all the gaskets and PCV's and lines if i am going to pull the cover i will replace everything. Anyone have any suggestion.
Thank You In advance

@sally body Please let me know what you found and post any results if you have this fixed.

 

[Hunt4freedom]

Just fixed it on my 17 Cruze, simple fix really. Removed the throttle body and cleaned it 100% put it back together, didn’t even clear the code. The computer recognized the problem was fixed after 2 run cycles and went away. I did out my code reader on it after that and said no codes found. I have been running like that for a week now and no problems. I drive 800 miles a week as I am a district manager and has not come back! Hope this helps and I know this is a older thread. But wanted to put what I found!

 

[sally body]

On jan 3, 2022, Ok iv'e read all the post 23 in total on this P1101 Fu*ken MAF code.)
My Car is a 2017 chevy cruze hatch priemer with the L1.4 turbo LE2 engine 65k miles
2 month ago ( P1101 code) i pulled the turbo cooler tubes apart cleaned everthing, put in a new air filter and MAF sensor.
Sprayed the throttle body from the top.
Removed the two tamper screws on the two pcv and checked them and they seem to be ok. The tamper proof one that you have to pull the camshaft cover to remove
( is there a way of removing it without removing the camshaft cover?)
seems to be working ok by me pulling the other end out of the turbo and sucking and blowing on it and it seems to be operating properly
Read ever bulletin Gm put out from the cracked pistons
( checked my compression and it's 243 across the board, Seems good)
to the orfice failing underneath the camshaft cover,
Bullettin 20-na-047 July 2021 talks about the pcv orfice under the camshaft cover.
Two months went by with no problem and the p1101 came back 3-31-2022 and if i cleared it ,it came back immediately.
So i pulled everything apart again and cleaned everything, MAF, Turbo inlet and outlet house and checked the hoses for leaks including the cooler and everything is not leaking.
Little oil in cooler lines that didn't amount to 5 drops of oil.
I cleaned the MAF sensor with the proper cleaner including the Throttle body
(this time i pulled throttle body and cleaned it properly, little carbon in it but not horrible).
The code went away and seems to be good.
My questions for the experts.
The 20-NA-047 i don't trust and has been revised 3 times. when i check my Vaccum on the dipstick from the starting of engine
(hooked everything up before starting engine then let it get up to temp)
my Manometer stays at 0 inches. If i bring the RPMs up to 1200 i get a positive presure to about 1 psi and the checks pcv seems to be doing there job. when i let off the throttle, it goes back to idol and i get 0 inches, and never more then a 1/4 of a inch if that much.
Can this engine achive -1 to _5 inchs as the bulletin says?
I do not want to pull my camshaft cover and **** with everything if my Orfice is not restricted.
For the experts what do you think?
It seems like these orfices under the camshaft cover are a problem.
What am i missing?
Car is now running ok with no code but i think it will eventually come back.
Its been a couple days and about 50 miles and everthing is good, No codes and all my ready sensors are set except the evap,which takes a few days of driving cyclesto set.
All my ready snsors were good before and i am 99 percent sure i dont have any vaccum leaks.
Thanks in advance!

 

[hmyland]

On jan 3, 2022, Ok iv'e read all the post 23 in total on this P1101 Fu*ken MAF code.)
My Car is a 2017 chevy cruze hatch priemer with the L1.4 turbo LE2 engine 65k miles
2 month ago ( P1101 code) i pulled the turbo cooler tubes apart cleaned everthing, put in a new air filter and MAF sensor.
Sprayed the throttle body from the top.
Removed the two tamper screws on the two pcv and checked them and they seem to be ok. The tamper proof one that you have to pull the camshaft cover to remove
( is there a way of removing it without removing the camshaft cover?)
seems to be working ok by me pulling the other end out of the turbo and sucking and blowing on it and it seems to be operating properly
Read ever bulletin Gm put out from the cracked pistons
( checked my compression and it's 243 across the board, Seems good)
to the orfice failing underneath the camshaft cover,
Bullettin 20-na-047 July 2021 talks about the pcv orfice under the camshaft cover.
Two months went by with no problem and the p1101 came back 3-31-2022 and if i cleared it ,it came back immediately.
So i pulled everything apart again and cleaned everything, MAF, Turbo inlet and outlet house and checked the hoses for leaks including the cooler and everything is not leaking.
Little oil in cooler lines that didn't amount to 5 drops of oil.
I cleaned the MAF sensor with the proper cleaner including the Throttle body
(this time i pulled throttle body and cleaned it properly, little carbon in it but not horrible).
The code went away and seems to be good.
My questions for the experts.
The 20-NA-047 i don't trust and has been revised 3 times. when i check my Vaccum on the dipstick from the starting of engine
(hooked everything up before starting engine then let it get up to temp)
my Manometer stays at 0 inches. If i bring the RPMs up to 1200 i get a positive presure to about 1 psi and the checks pcv seems to be doing there job. when i let off the throttle, it goes back to idol and i get 0 inches, and never more then a 1/4 of a inch if that much.
Can this engine achive -1 to _5 inchs as the bulletin says?
I do not want to pull my camshaft cover and **** with everything if my Orfice is not restricted.
For the experts what do you think?
It seems like these orfices under the camshaft cover are a problem.
What am i missing?
Car is now running ok with no code but i think it will eventually come back.
Its been a couple days and about 50 miles and everthing is good, No codes and all my ready sensors are set except the evap,which takes a few days of driving cyclesto set.
All my ready snsors were good before and i am 99 percent sure i dont have any vaccum leaks.
Thanks in advance!

 

[hmyland]

2016 1/2 cruze, p1101 in jan 2021. ran fine but gas mileage dropped 6mpg around town. took it to dealer,told them about 20na047 service bulletin. they replaced the pcv orfice tube and a bunch of gaskets. zurich extended warranty coverd costs, $1600.00 ,$100 deductable. jan 2022 take it back to same dealer because gas mileage went to crap,also blowing oil out filler cap if off with engine running. dealer said that was normal(bullshit) zurich wont cover anything because no code.(pissed) may10 2022 take back to dealer with p1101 code,they said pcv orfice tube clogged,another$1600 which will be covered by zurich.i will be selling car if i cant find a permanent fix. car has 49000 miles on it.

 

[16Cruze84]

I have a 2016 Cruze 1.4L 2nd Gen LE2 Motor. 6-Speed Manual. I have just under 61,000 miles and I have the P1101 DTC as well. I cleaned the MAF Sensor and the code came right back. New MAF Sensor is $100. Any help would be greatly appreciated…

Below I am listing all work/repairs performed on my vehicle either by myself, a 3rd party shop or the Dealership. I am also listing what has never been worked on by anyone. The items never worked on will say Original, Factory or Stock.

Symptoms and Checks/Repairs are as follows:

-SYMPTOMS-

- DTC P1101 MAF Sensor
- Very poor fuel economy 20mpg (City) MAX.
45mpg (Highway) Max.
- Exhaust has a very strong smell
- Sluggish Acceleration at all speeds
and in all gears.
- Loss of power at all speeds.

-CHECKS/REPAIRS-

- Intake Air Filter - Replaced - Stock OEM.
- MAF Sensor - Cleaned.
- Oil - Changed at/or before 15% life.
- Exhaust - Stock - Original from Factory
No leaks or modifications.
- Engine/Transmission - ALL Factory Stock
Nothing has been replaced.
- Fuel - Chevron Premium 91 ONLY.
- SeaFoam used twice a year.
- All Vacuum Lines secured and not leaking.
- Throttle body - Factory Stock - I should
probably clean that…

-WARRANTY SERVICES PERFORMED-

- Rear Axle Noise Recall - Warranty Repaired.
- Chevy MyLink Infotainment System Updated
to latest available software in June of 2021.
- Standard Point inspection, torque to spec, top
off fluids and tire rotation during Oil Changes
at John L. Sullivan Chevrolet in Roseville, CA.

-Future Repairs I will do Myself-

- Spark Plus, Coils and wires.
- MAF Sensor.
- Brakes
- Motor/Transmission Mounts

- Repairs I Will have the Dealership Do-

- Timing Chain
- Clutch and all associated components

 

[Gurinder_singh01]

Just fixed it on my 17 Cruze, simple fix really. Removed the throttle body and cleaned it 100% put it back together, didn’t even clear the code. The computer recognized the problem was fixed after 2 run cycles and went away. I did out my code reader on it after that and said no codes found. I have been running like that for a week now and no problems. I drive 800 miles a week as I am a district manager and has not come back! Hope this helps and I know this is a older thread. But wanted to put what I found!

thanks man it worked !!!!!!!!

 

[Winghazel17533]

Thanks for this thread! It was beyond helpful. Dirty throttle body was definitely the cause. I got in there and cleaned it with some brake cleaner and the light went off after two cycles. I wasn't able to actually take the throttle body out because the gray clip was so stuck. Several of my family members tried and none of us could get it off, even after the gray clip broke. I sprayed the break cleaner on shop towels and wiped it down really well and it worked the same. Thanks again!

 

[saydasar]

performed

 

[Winghazel17533]

Thanks for this thread! It was beyond helpful. Dirty throttle body was definitely the cause. I got in there and cleaned it with some brake cleaner and the light went off after two cycles. I wasn't able to actually take the throttle body out because the gray clip was so stuck. Several of my family members tried and none of us could get it off, even after the gray clip broke. I sprayed the break cleaner on shop towels and wiped it down really well and it worked the same. Thanks again!

Spoke too soon. A few weeks after this, the light came back. It sporadically came and went for a while. Finally bit the bullet and took it to Meineke. Apparently, it's the VVT solenoid. Cost is about $415 including labor and diagnosis to get it replaced.

 

[zombietx]

Anyone try the oil catch can that on Dave's custom cruze parts? Apparently he fixed this issue by preventing oil to be sucked up the pcv system and into the intake. Don't know how true this is

 

[Winghazel17533]

Spoke too soon. A few weeks after this, the light came back. It sporadically came and went for a while. Finally bit the bullet and took it to Meineke. Apparently, it's the VVT solenoid. Cost is about $415 including labor and diagnosis to get it replaced.

VVT didn't work and neither did replacing the MAF Sensor. Now they're saying it's the turbo.

 

[Iamantman]

VVT didn't work and neither did replacing the MAF Sensor. Now they're saying it's the turbo.

Just friendly advice I'd stop taking your car to Meineke for power train work. Those guys are for oil changes and tire rotations.

 

[Winghazel17533]

Just friendly advice I'd stop taking your car to Meineke for power train work. Those guys are for oil changes and tire rotations.

Yeah, I'm starting to see that now. The turbo didn't work either and we're now out over $2,000. They say it's the alternator now, which makes no sense. I have an appointment with another mechanic in a little over a week and I'm hoping they'll be more helpful.