Went to install the UR racing strut bar, one side came off perfectly easy, the other side slightly spun before it came off. Didn't think much of it until I went to reinstall the bolts with the bar installed, and the same side that spun a little when coming off keeps spinning when im trying to tighten it. The drivers side feels tight but spins, but the passenger side doesnt spin at all when it is tightened down. Anyone run across this when reinstalling the strut top bolt?
neirfin
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Went to install the UR racing strut bar, one side came off perfectly easy, the other side slightly spun before it came off. Didn't think much of it until I went to reinstall the bolts with the bar installed, and the same side that spun a little when coming off keeps spinning when im trying to tighten it. The drivers side feels tight but spins, but the passenger side doesnt spin at all when it is tightened down. Anyone run across this when reinstalling the strut top bolt?
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Is the whole mount spinning?
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Sorry, probably phrased it poorly. Is the entire rubber strut mount spinning with the bolt? That would indicate a busted mount.
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The rubber mount is on top of the strut tower under the hood. It should not spin or twist itself - it should remain firmly in place.
Yes, it would probably clunk over bumps.
Yes, it would probably clunk over bumps.
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Oh I thought that round disc was metal. Yea it spins with the bolt and nut. But it isn't connected to the strut other than the nut holding it on... I haven't noticed any clunks other than the same noises since I bought the car... I suppose it is possible it was always broken? Like I said, it spun when I was taking it off a little but still broke loose, and I read in another forum post that someone had to hold the torx with a friend using the wrench to get it loose because it kept spinning...
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???
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ahh I just read this post again and saw you said 'mount'. looked up the part on gmpartsdirect and I guess I see how if it were broken, it would just spin around, since the bolt the nut goes on is just the top part of the strut. I will try moving the passenger mount to the drivers side and see if it stops spinning, then its a trip to the parts store I guess. just seems like a weird part to break, and don't get how that would have broken along the way...
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I believe the whole strut assembly has to be removed from below to do that - at least that's how it was on my other car. That rubber mount fits into a metal mounting plate and then bolts down from the top.
Lots of up and down motion is enough to break them. It may be a very subtle knocking noise over big bumps.
Forum member sciphi changed the front struts on his Cruze, and may have done a write up. If not, there are several lowering spring installs around the site that might have a write up as to how the whole thing goes together.
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Ahh ****. I thought it would be as easy as replacing that top cap. ****. If I buy one of the strut assemblies that come with the spring already on would it have the mount? Or should I just not be lazy and go buy a spring compressor
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Auto parts stores will rent them to you...you put down the deposit (price of the tool), and they give it back to you when you return it.
Is your car way out of the B2B 36K warranty?
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Yeah im about to hit 60k. I do a lot of freeway driving which would possibly explain a busted mount. Ill ask the dealership how much to fix but im sure the labor alone would be way too much. And after looking at the how to, I know I have the tools except a compressor, just a matter of time to do the work.
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if i got a quick strut assembly, would it affect the ride height? i looked up the assembly on a few sites, and they show the same part for either the LT or Eco. i dont want to lose the lowered eco ride height, would the only way to avoid that be to take apart the oem strut assembly?
11 12 Chevrolet Cruze Quick Complete Front Struts Coil Springs Mounts Pair | eBay
these same types are listed for all three models on rock auto also.
11 12 Chevrolet Cruze Quick Complete Front Struts Coil Springs Mounts Pair | eBay
these same types are listed for all three models on rock auto also.
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Eco, 2LT, and LTZ share the same front suspension package (look for the "sport" suspension). LS and 1LT have a higher ride height. I think sites like GM Parts direct split them all up anyway, with struts listed specifically for the Eco in their description.
If you're going to replace the strut too, I'd do both, as you'll need a front-end alignment at the end of all this anyway.
Somewhere mid-2012, they redesigned the front struts and springs for the 2011/12 models because they'd knock. So there's THAT to look out for too...
If you're going to replace the strut too, I'd do both, as you'll need a front-end alignment at the end of all this anyway.
Somewhere mid-2012, they redesigned the front struts and springs for the 2011/12 models because they'd knock. So there's THAT to look out for too...
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Hmm well I cant find any quick struts except on ebay and amazon... they're both pretty much cheapo no name struts. It doesnt specify if it fits the eco specifically or sport suspension. I really wish I had $1k for a set of coilovers.
Ill definetly be replacing both and at this point, there is no telling how many miles I drove with the busted mount, so I would think it best to replace the strut and spring and mount all at once...?
Its no racecar so im not opposed to getting a cheapo strut assembly from ebay but I really dont want to get finished installing it and see a higher ride height in the front.
Is there a way of telling the difference between an old design strut and the newly redesigned?
Ill definetly be replacing both and at this point, there is no telling how many miles I drove with the busted mount, so I would think it best to replace the strut and spring and mount all at once...?
Its no racecar so im not opposed to getting a cheapo strut assembly from ebay but I really dont want to get finished installing it and see a higher ride height in the front.
Is there a way of telling the difference between an old design strut and the newly redesigned?
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