[Corvairer]

Hi all,
My wife's car threw a P0290, and she was experiencing frequent losses of power, and smelling fuel at stoplights. I looked up the code and found upon inspection that the hot side of the turbo had cracked the little flapper valve that closes to create boost (the name escapes me) was binding, and her turbo bearings didn't like spinning much. I ordered a Dorman unit from RockAuto with a few other things it needed.
I'm replacing the whole turbo unit, oil return and both coolant lines, pcv breather hose, plugs, vc gasket, and both O2's. I've basically got everything buttoned up, but I need some advice on the turbo coolant return and feed lines.
I was ready to flare some tubing, but it appears that the threaded fittings are pressed on to the lines. I have never seen this before, and I used to turn wrenches for a living. Can they be removed from the old lines? Or do I need to order a pair? Once I get new ones or get the old ones off, how do I get them on the new lines?
Thanks in advance,
MS

 

[mikestony]

Hi all,
My wife's car threw a P0290, and she was experiencing frequent losses of power, and smelling fuel at stoplights. I looked up the code and found upon inspection that the hot side of the turbo had cracked the little flapper valve that closes to create boost (the name escapes me) was binding, and her turbo bearings didn't like spinning much. I ordered a Dorman unit from RockAuto with a few other things it needed.
I'm replacing the whole turbo unit, oil return and both coolant lines, pcv breather hose, plugs, vc gasket, and both O2's. I've basically got everything buttoned up, but I need some advice on the turbo coolant return and feed lines.
I was ready to flare some tubing, but it appears that the threaded fittings are pressed on to the lines. I have never seen this before, and I used to turn wrenches for a living. Can they be removed from the old lines? Or do I need to order a pair? Once I get new ones or get the old ones off, how do I get them on the new lines?
Thanks in advance,
MS

I think you have to order new lines with the fittings. I know exactly what you speak of, and if there is a special tool to remove the fittings off the old lines, I didn't have one and boy are they on there! I had to carefully cut off the old fitting to get a new one on the old line. Successful at doing it but my arsehole was puckered when cutting the fitting

 

[Miguelcon74]

Part # 25199813

I know this is an old thread but I needed these myself so I thought I'd post it.

They also make a special tool.

En 49940.

But I ain't spending $50 on tool that a right size fuel line quick disconnect will work for.

Also if you have the line off the vehicle a right size metal dowel will push the coolant tube off the fitting.

 

[thebac]

I know its an old thread, but I stumbled upon a possible alternative for these fittings.
Dorman 667-504

 

[Miguelcon74]

Merry Christmas to all!

The fitting kit works but they're a pain to change and for $10 or less more, you can get the whole feed line with insulation as one piece.

 

[frankh]

You should also replace the turbo oil feed line. The oil tends to dry up in the pipe and eventually plug it solid.. Which then destroys your turbo bearings in short order. The tube is very small diameter so its not recommended to try to clean it out.

 

[MyShibbyEco]

You should also replace the turbo oil feed line. The oil tends to dry up in the pipe and eventually plug it solid.. Which then destroys your turbo bearings in short order. The tube is very small diameter so its not recommended to try to clean it out.

This was a problem on the original design without the heat wrap, or if the oil is not changed regularly/properly. The newer design with a thicker heat wrap and double o-ring should not be building up oil. The dorman ones with the thinner heat wrap might be ok, but I never tried them.

Inspected mine after 6 years/80k miles (the new design with thick heat wrap) and it had no gumming of oil.

 

[frankh]

This was a problem on the original design without the heat wrap, or if the oil is not changed regularly/properly. The newer design with a thicker heat wrap and double o-ring should not be building up oil. The dorman ones with the thinner heat wrap might be ok, but I never tried them.

Inspected mine after 6 years/80k miles (the new design with thick heat wrap) and it had no gumming of oil.

True. I added some extra insulation to mine when I replaced the line. After a further 20k miles (when I replaced all of the hoses under the hood) I removed the new oil feed line and flushed it out with brake clean and did not find any residue inside.

Incidently, when my O ring seal started leaking I found it was the double O ring type which are supposed to less likely to leak.

 

[Desacrasa]

Hi all,
My wife's car threw a P0290, and she was experiencing frequent losses of power, and smelling fuel at stoplights. I looked up the code and found upon inspection that the hot side of the turbo had cracked the little flapper valve that closes to create boost (the name escapes me) was binding, and her turbo bearings didn't like spinning much. I ordered a Dorman unit from RockAuto with a few other things it needed.
I'm replacing the whole turbo unit, oil return and both coolant lines, pcv breather hose, plugs, vc gasket, and both O2's. I've basically got everything buttoned up, but I need some advice on the turbo coolant return and feed lines.
I was ready to flare some tubing, but it appears that the threaded fittings are pressed on to the lines. I have never seen this before, and I used to turn wrenches for a living. Can they be removed from the old lines? Or do I need to order a pair? Once I get new ones or get the old ones off, how do I get them on the new lines?
Thanks in advance,
MS

How tough is this repair? I have a coolant line replaced recently at dealer but it was extremely expensive to do. I am dreading replacing the entire turbo?