The plastic doesn't even follow the aluminum edge in a straight line?

Garbage. 70 inch pounds I tightened them. Garbage.

Its seeping between the one bolt and dipstick. Far from the front cover seal where the traditional dab of silicone is needed.

Garbage.

 

Maybe the dipstick pushed the cover down since it also fits like garabage? Its tighter then tight to set it back in the cover.

 

Mile 20 update. Oil ontop of the valve cover bolt.

Impressive. Glad its not leaking around the gasket I guess?

 

I checked the pcv fix plug. Its still in place. Not sure why the cover is leaking oil.

 

Well, I'm really not sure what all is going wrong and why. But I have changed my valve cover twice, and I'm currently running a Dorman so I have some insight on the job.

Since you are about the 1000th person to come on this site with similar issues, I will just list most people's mistakes while doing the job.
1. improper torquing - not using a torque wrench, not realizing it is inch-lbs verses foot-lbs, not following the official torquing sequence, having a cheap torque wrench that is not accurate in the low end.
2. dirty mating surface - the metal has to be clean, like brain surgery clean. Take a razor blade and a clean microfiber towel with alcohol to get everything off the surface.
3. The gasket coming out of place. Make sure every inch of the gasket is pushed into the cover grove, and don't rub on anything during placement.
4.Not lubing the gasket. The gaskets usually come dried out, apply some fresh motor oil an hour or so before install, then another application just before installation. Wipe excess off.
5. Using too much or no gasket maker at the timing chain cover gap. Only a pea sized dab is needed.

You are right about the dipstick hole, it comes way to small. They can be drilled out, or use some sandpaper wrapped around a rod to open it up.

The OEM covers are considered the best. I've used Apex and Dorman without issues. The metal ones I've heard mixed reviews on.

 

Well, 1001-th person, none of that you listed was the issue.

Different cover and no leaks.

Plastic garbage. Plastic plastic plastic. Its a sad world.

 

Well,I guess before I get a few miles on this latest cover and gasket, I notice under full boost I get a weird chatter under the hood on the passenger side, kinda. Difficult to pinpoint.

Is there another or more valves besides the junk flapper inside the intake, that can fail, or begin to fail, and cause issues?

 

Is there another or more valves besides the junk flapper inside the intake, that can fail, or begin to fail, and cause issues?

There is a check valve at the turbo inlet also.

Why do we even need a PCV system? – CruzeKits.com

 

How much pressure is acceptable in the crankcase/valve cover if everything is working properly?

I just discovered a crack in the plastic cover in the front, and it spits oil out under boost. I remove the valve cover cap and the leak stops, and blow-by dumps out of the removed cover hole.

V3 fix installed and new intake manifold.

I'm beginning to think there's another botched check valve somewhere else. Oh, under good boost, there's ALOT of crickets/chatter coming down from the turbo area.

Also, according to that link of PVC system, there should be mild vacuum going down to the turbo? My rubber hose balloons up with boost.

I checked the flapper hole in the intake ,my JB weld and button is still there and glued in place.

I'm getting annoyed with this car.

I have no codes or check engine light. Scanner shows boost as expected.

If the turbo is getting questionable/turns hard, would that encourage back pressure before the check valve instead of a slight vacuum?

 

Well, replaced the cover, there was a crack that would pump oil like no tomorrow with boost

The weird noise is either a blown exhaust manifold gasket, or cracked tube.

 

Onto another valve cover.

These things are garbage. The plastic just crumbles.

I got 4k miles out of this one.

 

Straight edge with a light behind it.

Garbage. Straight up garbage

 

Where it is crumbling is section exhaust gases are pulled into the PCV system, probably the hottest section of the valve cover. That kind of damage in my experience will come but after about 6-8 years. If that is the new manifold, the plastic must be bad or you have something making your car run hot.

Sonic/Cruze 1.4T Aluminum Valve Cover

Replace your stock plastic valve cover with this full aluminum valve cover for your LUV/LUJ engine. Valve cover comes with new gasket, new bolts, and a full new PCV assembly. Silver in color, not bare aluminum. Internal PCV plate bolts Loctite-ed. We recommend pairing the aluminum valve cover...

zzperformance.com

 

100 miles on this dorman and fresh gasket.

Dried everything off with brake cleaner. Gasket is dry everywhere else except right at this kick out. And even this valve cover looks like garbage against the aluminum head.

I'm getting so sick of this oil leaking piece of ****.

I've used 3 different torque wrenches, yes, 71 inch pounds, and yes, followed the sequence.

I didn't use or have access to a $45,000 snap on, so I rounded it to 70 inch pounds. Id hate to do something stupid and accidentally tighten them to 72-inch pounds and have a leak or something.....

 

Other then an aluminum cover, and goo-gob RTV all over the lower left corner of the cover gasket, which is unnecessary, wtf? I'm stumped.

I've rebuilt 350 Chevy's and plenty of other engines, and this ****** is taking me by surprise.

It loves to leak right above #1 exhaust port. I don't know why. Its not even dripping where the timing covet meets the head either.

The way the plastic is skewing doesn't seem very promising or appealing.

My kids plastic toys are molded more square and true.

 

Well, OEM gm showed up yesterday.

120 miles today and no leaks. See how far this goes.