Nice write-up. You seem to be referencing another tutorial on how to drain, but there's no link. And given the number of problems people have had getting all the air out, I can't help but think there's something missing on the refill.

 

Didn't get a chance to post that one up last night. It's coming soon.

The air works its way out over time. There's no way to bleed the system so you kind of just have to drain, fill, and top off as needed.

 

There is a radiator air bleed screw on the passenger side coolant tank of the radiator. Typically open that screw until coolant comes out with the engine off, then top off and circulate coolant.

Is your E-10 socket 3/8ths or 1/4"? Mines is 3/8" and made by Lisle. I think I'd have problems attempting to get on the bottom bolt based on your pictures.

I recently watched a youtube video on the 1.4L oil pan, and that requires a 1/4" E-10 that's thin. They are out there, but appear to be expensive. Maybe there's a cheaper alternative.

I hate the idea of just using a metric socket, even though the torque level is low.

 

There is a radiator air bleed screw on the passenger side coolant tank of the radiator. Typically open that screw until coolant comes out with the engine off, then top off and circulate coolant.

Is your E-10 socket 3/8ths or 1/4"? Mines is 3/8" and made by Lisle. I think I'd have problems attempting to get on the bottom bolt based on your pictures.

I recently watched a youtube video on the 1.4L oil pan, and that requires a 1/4" E-10 that's thin. They are out there, but appear to be expensive. Maybe there's a cheaper alternative.

I hate the idea of just using a metric socket, even though the torque level is low.

Actually I've gotten some of these off with a 5/16" box end, I think it was 5/16". I'm sure a 1/4 drive would work in the same way. In the tighter places anyways, and may not work great for torquing heavy load, but 71 in-lbs is like 8 ft-lbs I think. That's kinda like the second it feels tight its 8+. Maybe I'm a hack, but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes. Hope it helps!

 

Hello:

I recently purchased a used 2012 Cruze with this issue. I replaced the Water outlet completely as shown with all new parts.
Now it is 2 weeks later and it is leaking again in the same location, the antifreeze seems to be leaking from around the metal keeper clip. I can push it down a tiny bit and the leak becomes more aggressive.

I will purchase and try another New water jacket assembly, but first i was wondering if there would be any down side to gluing (high temp epoxy) the ends together on this one that is leaking as it is faulty anyway? GM says not to any warranty on this (older) new part as it was installed.....
I could not see any o ring or anything damaged - does anyone know what the point of the removable hose connection is? What is the downside to glueing the pieces together? if i have to replace it anyway i might as well try it i figure?

 

I would not use epoxy to glue the parts down. Did you replace both components as shown in this thread, or just one?

 

Thanks for this great writeup. I bought a Haynes manual thinking this would be in there...what a waste of money.

Why do you recommend replacing the recovery tank hose?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Good grief!

How much more do you intend to clutter the forum with the same, uh........information?

Expressed as a percentage of failure, relative to the huge number of members on this forum, this failure is not common enough to even be a bump on Chevys radar.

Yes, it happens, yes, it sucks, reading seven threads of identicle rant sucks more.

Rob

 

Do you know what size our radiator hose is? I'm installing an aftermarket thermostat and I'm trying to find the correct size adapter

 

the plastic nipple part of the hose has broken down in the part where it is held on by the Plastic Retaining Clip...why cant i just get a new hose and make the repair ??? the other part isnt the problem.. Why cant i just pull the metal Clip and pull up that piece and dig out the broken part and install hose nipple back into it

 

I went to replace the water outlet as it was leaking at the block. When I went to reinstall the new one I discovered the bottom right hole in the block was stripped out. Is this a M6x1 and would you recommend using a helicoil to repair? Thanks for any feedback.

 

Here are some things I'd like to add after doing the water outlet myself. Perhaps they can get merged into the main write up.

You may be able to skip removing the white/purple/black throttle body wire (mine didn't come off easily). It seems the only reason to remove it is to reach the throttle body intake hose clamp. I just reached a screwdriver around the wire to disconnect the clamp.

I REALLY wish there was a way to remove the throttle body intake hose since it's always in the way. I rotated it 90 degrees counter clockwise and wedged it in front of the engine. I don't recommend doing this because it's really stiff and you'll be putting a lot of torque on it, so do it carefully if at all.

The blue O2 sensor wire has a junction which is connected to the top of the water outlet by a clip. Disconnect it by sliding the boxy junction down off the clip.

As XR described, you can disconnect the junction with the "plastic retaining clip that you need to slide upward at the same time as you pull outward." Here's a picture of that process.

Even though you've drained coolant from the radiator, there's still about one cup of coolant in the engine. When you remove the water outlet, that coolant will dump out everywhere. One option for catching that is to have a large plastic sheet or tub under the engine since it will drip down from the front and back of the engine. A better option is to lay some clever plastic sheet under the water outlet, catching and diverting the coolant to a cup under the car, then carefully remove the water outlet sensor so the coolant flows out its small hole.

After removing the water outlet, you may need to take the O2 sensor wire clip from the old outlet and move it to the new outlet. Use pliers to press in the wings on the back of the clip, then push it out through the hole. Be careful, it may be fragile due to age. Insert it into the new water outlet. To reattach the O2 sensor wire, slide the junction on to the clip up from the bottom.

 

I just noticed a small coolant leak tonight. My wife took the Cruze and while she was gone I noticed DexCool on the floor of the garage. When she got home I checked it out and it dripped about half a teaspoon pretty much under the turbo. But I couldn't figure out where the source was. Does this sound like the water outlet and related? I think I see a path between the outlet and where it's dripping but I want to be sure before I buy parts and do the repair. I plan to keep the reservoir full and watch the leak for a bit, but I'm also nervous since I've read several posts about catastrophic failures where all the coolant leaks out.

 

I would check for wetness around the water outlet first before you go off replacing it, but it's a high rate of failure part so it very well may be the source of your problem.

 

Thanks for all of the discussion. I replaced the outlet and the over flow hose to recovery tank. Still the
O-ring seeps when the engine heats up. What can I do short of trying new parts again? I used AC delco parts. Very frustrted!

 

Thanks for all of the discussion. I replaced the outlet and the over flow hose to recovery tank. Still the
O-ring seeps when the engine heats up. What can I do short of trying new parts again? I used AC delco parts. Very frustrted!

Welcome Aboard!

If you are talking about the cap o-ring, just replace it.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

 

I just did this to one of my Cruzes, worked fine no more leaks. Now the other Cruze was leaking at the top hose. I replaced it, Why GM made a double connector with 2 O-rings within 1 inch of each other is beyond me. Now it's still leaking (I think) from the sensor O-ring. I'm just going to replace the whole thing and be done with it.

I do wonder how many of these leaks are just those O-rings. Old ones are square on cross section, new are round.
I went through 2 heat up and cool cycles no leaks. Last night was colder than it's been and this morning wet all over under the junction. I think the old O-rings shrink and leak.

 

Old [o-rings] are square on cross section, new are round.

I'm pretty sure the old ones started out as round, and the square shape was formed into them with years of pressure and temperature (If you leave them in there long enough, they turn into diamonds )

Seriously, once removed (and re-installed), the chances of leaking go up significantly, so fresh o-rings are usually needed. The challenge is identifying the correct ones

Doug

.

 

HI CZ KIDD HERE i posted above about the dorman after market upper hose from the reservoir, it will not accept the plastic clip due to the circumference of hose / valve end being too large, i did run car almost an hour and it got to a steady heat level and did not leak, even after a test drive. problem started after plastic end that goes into valve assembly cracked and left my daughter sitting at a dangerous spot on freeway. It does accept the metal clip and is semi snug , just bothers me about the plasticclip and she needs to travel next week. its a 2015 1.4 turbo and has been rather reliable until this , i did replace the valve assembly also , which i think was also Dorman...can someone give me any input on this? I definately dont want her sitting on the toll way nest week , thanks

 

Valve assembly?

 

Just recently changed the water outlet on my 2016 Cruze 1.4. Easy job. But now I'm hearing coolant boiling at the outlet after a 15 minute ride. Temperature is as usual one mark before half on the gauge. Not boiling over into the reservoir until I loosen the cap at the reservoir but it is definitely boiling at the back of the head. Tried bleeding the air and running at 2500 rpm for 5 minutes to bleed. I changed the thermostat 10 months ago. It wasn't doing it until I changed the outlet. Any clues?

 

Welcome Aboard!

You should start your own thread and explain a bit more.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

 

You bleed the air at the white bleeder on the radiator tank passenger side? If your still boiling that bad you may have some engine problems..

 

I did, thinking if the water pump has a plastic impeller that it may have disintegrated. I have seen this in the past.

 

Factory early impeller design was plastic. Not just the impeller, but the backing plate of the impeller on the factory pump I removed was plastic. The entire backing plate rotated on the dead pump. There's no way it could pump full flow even if the impeller was ok.

I did a posting on this, back a few years ago, and I thought I uploaded pictures between old and new. Lost some files and no longer have the pictures, but I went with the current ACDelco Professional pump from Rockauto.. Metal impeller and metal backing plate.

Look at the pump impeller side of the pump and you'll see what I mean with "backing plate". It's wrong terminology, but something us car guys at least understand.

 

Factory early impeller design was plastic. Not just the impeller, but the backing plate of the impeller on the factory pump I removed was plastic. The entire backing plate rotated on the dead pump. There's no way it could pump full flow even if the impeller was ok.

I did a posting on this, back a few years ago, and I thought I uploaded pictures between old and new. Lost some files and no longer have the pictures, but I went with the current ACDelco Professional pump from Rockauto.. Metal impeller and metal backing plate.

Look at the pump impeller side of the pump and you'll see what I mean with "backing plate". It's wrong terminology, but something us car guys at least understand.

I didn't realize they had updated the design... I think the one I put in earlier this year had a black backing, likely plastic, bummer...

 

Thanks for posting these instructions and the link to the tools. My 2014 Eco 6MT started a slow leak around 113,000 miles. I couldn't really locate the link, so i replaced the water outlet, heater hose, turbo hose, and expansion tank hose. The heater hose was in bad shape, looks like it was degraded by oil. The hose clamp tool worked well, much better than pliers. Thanks to the author and all who contributed to this guideline.

 

In my case turns out it was the recovery hose, I also replaced the o'ring in the water outlet side of the hose with the added difficulty that when I was pulling the hose out, it broke inside the water outlet case. Had to patiently pick it out, refill the coolant tank and bleed the system, ran some errands, so far so good. I had replaced the water outlet like 30k miles ago (using this guide). I think I'm gonna buy the tank and keep it around to replace it when the time comes....

 

I have a 2011 LTZ 1.4L Turbo and have had to replace the hose twice, both had a broken fitting below the oring and wouldn't seal/constant leak. I even bought the re-engineered dormans hose with plastic fitting, so when it broke again as in picture,

I made one out of stainless steel to replace it and no more problems!

If anyone has interest pm me and we can talk about it!

 

I have a 2011 LTZ 1.4L Turbo and have had to replace the hose twice, both had a broken fitting below the oring and wouldn't seal/constant leak. I even bought the re-engineered dormans hose with plastic fitting, so when it broke again as in picture, View attachment 299408

I made one out of stainless steel to replace it and no more problems!
View attachment 299409

If anyone has interest, I can make some of these and sell as permanent fix?
email me: Outlet Fitting at

View attachment 299410

I emailed you before the Mods incorrectly edited your email address out. It has no ending now.

 

No, only the plastic Dormans replacement and it's still working like a champ!

 

I have a puddle of yellow fluid on my driveway on the passanger side. Coolant level is low. Is this likely my issue? Why would it be on the passenger side though?

 

It could be. Open the hood and gently squeeze where the clamp was in picture 4 in the first post. If it feels mushy, thats it.

The usual suspects:

Surge tank crack
Surge tank nipple cracked
Surge tank cap gasket
Water outlet.
Hose from water outlet to surge tank
water pump

 

Do NOT get the Dorman water outlet! Lasted 3 years less than 20k miles on my 2014. Get the aluminum one.

 

Take it back, it should be lifetime warrantied

 

Does anyone know the part number for the heater core hose, the one that is pictured in this picture?...It is the 9th picture on page 1...I have tried searching by the number I can see, but have been unsuccessful...Many thanks!!!

 

This one? Amazon.com: GM Genuine Parts 94543097 Heater Outlet Hose, Black : Automotive

 

I will never buy a 1.4T Cruze Ever Again. WORST vehicle I have ever owned for coolant, oil, and transmission leaks. 4 Warrenty Shop Repairs in 5 months. One was 7 weeks long. POS broke again yesterday.. Plastic POS.. Chevy Needs To Recall. Call Your Attorneys Everyone...

 

Welcome Aboard!


Don’t forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

Just be aware pretty much no one here works for GM and if they do it is just coincidence. We are a bunch of enthusiasts that banded together to help each other with issues and camaraderie. Many of the issues are well documented here on the forum and there are many how to’s to help you out. So you are basically preaching to the choir. Oh and most warranty repairs are basically free. You can do more research on other special coverage items here as well.