2.0 TD rear brakes

dsc cruze · Aug 16, 2020

disregard above question, both sides are 'right hand thread'

MP81 · Sep 15, 2020

dsc cruze said:
disregard above question, both sides are 'right hand thread'

I'm glad you posted that - I'll be doing our rear brakes this week or weekend. Right rear brake decided to probably go metal-to-metal one day into our 9 day vacation.

dsc cruze · Sep 15, 2020

The rear brake job on the Cruze went very well. That tool kit I bought was worth every penny. Made life very easy.
Been on a 'brake' bender...
last week helped my neighbour with new brakes on his chev van, yesterday was new rear pads on my Ram 3500 dually, today a friend's Toyota Venza front brakes.

time for me to take a break...

MP81 · Sep 16, 2020

Sweet - I bought the type of tool kit shown in an image earlier in the thread, so that should be here when the pads and rotors are.

I do find brakes pretty relaxing to do - usually - but that might be a bit overkill! I did the fronts on the Cruze last October, then I did my brother's front brakes on his '01 Century about a month ago. I didn't do the brakes on his '01 Mustang when I upgraded all the suspension, but I did have to remove the front brakes (to get the control arm low enough to get the spring out, as well as to make my life a lot easier lining the spindle back up to the strut when reassembling), so I kind of did them in a way, haha.

boraz · Sep 16, 2020

left rear has been metal on metal for aboot 3mos or 4000 miles

parts were late in the mail

then got them, but that caliper was sticking....and i was scared of wrecking that caliper during the effort of removing the stuck pin, so put her back together and went back to work for 3wks

came back, tried again this time with a new caliper from local parts store, was just gonna swap out the bracket part, but, didnt line up with the bolt holes...dunno if it was wrong part or wrong part in box, but took it back, put the old parts back on and went back to work for 3wks

im home in 3 days for a month, waiting for me is replacement caliper which i hope is wrong again, really dont think ill need it, ive figured out a way to remove the pin w/o wrecking it, and besides i ordered a spare pin from the web, so im finally expecting success

i hope

MP81 · Sep 16, 2020

That's going to be the biggest thing - I'm not sure if the pins are stuck or not, or worse, if it's a hung piston. There's a consistent sound while driving, without being on the brakes - but if it's metal on metal, it could just be the backing plate riding on the rotor. Oddly, though, the outer pad looks fine for thickness...but the outer face of the RR rotor looks like absolute ****. The LR rotor outer face looks fine, and the outer pad on that side looks to be about the same thickness. I'm expecting it's the inner pad on the RR that's grinding though. The pics below are from about nine days ago, two days into vacation, and about a day after it starting making noise.

Driving home - about 250 miles - I felt the rear wheels when we stopped for diesel - the RR wheel was slightly warmer than the LR wheel, but that may very well have been just from the braking we had to do the last 10 or so miles, and especially the last mile. Metal to metal makes for some serious heat. If the piston was hung, I'm expecting the wheel would be realllly hot, so it might be okay.

Brakes should be here today, caliper piston tools here tomorrow, so I should be able to tackle them once those arrive...assuming nothing is impossibly stuck...

MP81 · Sep 16, 2020

Unrelated to that...anybody have the torque specs for the rear brakes (for the caliper bracket to "knuckle", and caliper to bracket - I'm assuming there aren't any more?).

"Auto Repair Source" is listing torque specs the same as the front brake caliper bracket, requiring some decent torque values + angle (74 ft-lbs + 15-30 degrees), and then 21 ft-lbs for the pin bolts.

I'm just surprised the specs are as high as the front, given the caliper is much, much smaller.

plano-doug · Sep 16, 2020

MP81 said:
Unrelated to that...anybody have the torque specs for the rear brakes (for the caliper bracket to "knuckle", and caliper to bracket - I'm assuming there aren't any more?).

"Auto Repair Source" is listing torque specs the same as the front brake caliper bracket, requiring some decent torque values + angle (74 ft-lbs + 15-30 degrees), and then 21 ft-lbs for the pin bolts.

I'm just surprised the specs are as high as the front, given the caliper is much, much smaller.

Here's what I got off Chilton's web site. It agrees with your numbers.

I take it the rears on the diesel are the same as the gas?

Doug

Front Brake Caliper Bracket Bolt (15 inch Brake System J67 and J93)
First Pass 100 N·m 74 lb ft
Final Pass 20 – 30 degrees

Front Brake Caliper Bracket Bolt (16 inch Brake System J60)
First Pass 150 N·m 111 lb ft
Final Pass 45 – 60 degrees

Front Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt 28 N·m 21 lb ft

Rear Brake Caliper Bracket Bolt
First Pass 100 N·m 74 lb ft
Final Pass 15°–30°

Rear Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt 28 N·m 21 lb ft

Vibration Dampener 9 N·m 80 lb in

.

MP81 · Sep 17, 2020

I believe they are - based on what I saw on RockAuto, the calipers are the same, they just use a different pad on a larger rotor.

MP81 · Sep 20, 2020

So, are we in agreement that the torque specs for the rear brakes on the diesel are the same as the gasser?

The caliper does appear to be the same, so I'm imaging that is the case - it's just mounted slightly further out with different pads for the larger rotors.

Planning to get out there and tackle these today - hoping the one caliper piston isn't hung, though I'm thinking it's probably not, since that wheel should have been REALLY hot, and I don't expect we'd have gotten 49 MPG on the trip back if it was hanging.

boraz · Sep 20, 2020

MP81 said:
So, are we in agreement that the torque specs for the rear brakes on the diesel are the same as the gasser?

The caliper does appear to be the same, so I'm imaging that is the case - it's just mounted slightly further out with different pads for the larger rotors.

Planning to get out there and tackle these today - hoping the one caliper piston isn't hung, though I'm thinking it's probably not, since that wheel should have been REALLY hot, and I don't expect we'd have gotten 49 MPG on the trip back if it was hanging.

i would go with specs from verano, shares same rear end, dont they?

MP81 · Sep 21, 2020

From what I see on RockAuto, it shares the same rotor and pads, but not the caliper.

It conveniently didn't bother to tell me torque specs on "Auto Repair Source" in the installation procedure, but the tightening specs seemed to be the same, so I think it should be good.

It's too late anyway, car's all done as of about 3 hours ago, haha.

All pretty easy I'd say (I hadn't done rear disc brakes before on a vehicle) - though the lower bolts/mass dampers are a bit problematic in my mind...that nut is NOT very well defined. The wrench that fit the best was actually a 1/2" and it was a super tight fit...still tried to round itself off (the left side was worse than the right side - the wrench came off and I whacked myself in the face, thankfully just with my hand, but with a fair bit of force).

Caliper seemed to be okay, though - RR outboard pad absolutely was metal-to-metal, but the inboard pad actually was fine and had a little bit of life left. Left side both pads still had thickness as well. Maybe when the front right brake went metal-to-metal last year, that accelerated wear on the right rear to compensate?

MP81 · Sep 21, 2020

Pics in the What Did You Do thread:

What did you do TO your Cruze today?

Post what you did to er and maybe even a picture to accompany it. Today I just washed it and did a quick wax job. It was pretty dirty from about 5 commutes to work!

www.cruzetalk.com

boraz · Sep 21, 2020

MP81 said:
From what I see on RockAuto, it shares the same rotor and pads, but not the caliper.

It conveniently didn't bother to tell me torque specs on "Auto Repair Source" in the installation procedure, but the tightening specs seemed to be the same, so I think it should be good.

It's too late anyway, car's all done as of about 3 hours ago, haha.

All pretty easy I'd say (I hadn't done rear disc brakes before on a vehicle) - though the lower bolts/mass dampers are a bit problematic in my mind...that nut is NOT very well defined. The wrench that fit the best was actually a 1/2" and it was a super tight fit...still tried to round itself off (the left side was worse than the right side - the wrench came off and I whacked myself in the face, thankfully just with my hand, but with a fair bit of force).

Caliper seemed to be okay, though - RR outboard pad absolutely was metal-to-metal, but the inboard pad actually was fine and had a little bit of life left. Left side both pads still had thickness as well. Maybe when the front right brake went metal-to-metal last year, that accelerated wear on the right rear to compensate?

the yt video on the diesel rear brakes said to use flat mouth vise grips for that damper bolt

plano-doug · Sep 21, 2020

MP81 said:
Caliper seemed to be okay, though - RR outboard pad absolutely was metal-to-metal, but the inboard pad actually was fine and had a little bit of life left.

This usually indicates the caliper is not freely moving on the slide pins, and is staying toward one side after the pedal is released, thus causing the uneven wear. I hope you cleaned and re-lubed the slide pins and their mating holes in the caliper.

Used to, I didn't always do that when I was doing brakes, but, over the years, I've added it to my list.

Doug

.

MP81 · Sep 21, 2020

boraz said:
the yt video on the diesel rear brakes said to use flat mouth vise grips for that damper bolt

That would probably be a better option. It's only torqued to 21 ft.lbs, so guesstimating torque while tightening is pretty easy to do. I think it's intended to be a hex, but it's terrible.

plano-doug said:
This usually indicates the caliper is not freely moving on the slide pins, and is staying toward one side after the pedal is released, thus causing the uneven wear. I hope you cleaned and re-lubed the slide pins and their mating holes in the caliper.

Used to, I didn't always do that when I was doing brakes, but, over the years, I've added it to my list.

Doug

.

That's the thing: all four slide pins moved in and out plenty freely. I pulled the boots back and squirted some extra brake lube in there and worked the pins in and out, just to be safe, but yeah, they all seemed to be pretty good.

The pins themselves stay in the caliper bracket and have boots to keep any kind of debris out (rather than like on my Cavalier, where the caliper itself rode on the pins, inside sleeves, but with no boots), and then the caliper bolts to those pins.

pandrad61 · Sep 22, 2020

MP81 said:
Sweet - I bought the type of tool kit shown in an image earlier in the thread, so that should be here when the pads and rotors are.

I do find brakes pretty relaxing to do - usually - but that might be a bit overkill! I did the fronts on the Cruze last October, then I did my brother's front brakes on his '01 Century about a month ago. I didn't do the brakes on his '01 Mustang when I upgraded all the suspension, but I did have to remove the front brakes (to get the control arm low enough to get the spring out, as well as to make my life a lot easier lining the spindle back up to the strut when reassembling), so I kind of did them in a way, haha.

Brakes are very easy and smooth to do. IF not drums, can’t stand drum brakes. Thankfully they aren’t super common to do and only her 16 spark has them.

MP81 · Sep 22, 2020

pandrad61 said:
Brakes are very easy and smooth to do. IF not drums, can’t stand drum brakes. Thankfully they aren’t super common to do and only her 16 spark has them.

The drums on my Cobalt were suuuuper easy to do. One big U-spring - that's it.

The drums on the Cavalier were much more complicated with approximately 4,000 springs. Which is why I have no interest in doing the drum brakes on my brother's '01 Century, just to do them (he's maybe at 120k, so they're probably fine anyway).

pandrad61 · Sep 22, 2020

MP81 said:
The drums on my Cobalt were suuuuper easy to do. One big U-spring - that's it.

The drums on the Cavalier were much more complicated with approximately 4,000 springs. Which is why I have no interest in doing the drum brakes on my brother's '01 Century, just to do them (he's maybe at 120k, so they're probably fine anyway).

On our old 85 318i they sucked. I’m glad I don’t do drums anymore. Disks all the way.

MP81 · Sep 22, 2020

pandrad61 said:
On our old 85 318i they sucked. I’m glad I don’t do drums anymore. Disks all the way.

Drums are great out back, for most cases - they last **** near forever, but yeah...most are an absolute nightmare to deal with replacing the parts. The old big finned drums, like on my '81, actually look pretty sweet, but newer ones are boring to look at.

2.0 TD rear brakes

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