I got a 2013 Cruze LT 1.4 Turbo and it's leaking coolant. I can see it wet right under the top coolant reservoir and leaking down below it but when I pulled it out to inspect under it, I didn't see any obvious leaks from it, not from the plastic container itself nor any of the hoses connected to it. Yet the ABS control model below it has coolant around it. Any common leaks that usually happen around there, maybe the reservoir itself?
HERKFOOT21
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I got a 2013 Cruze LT 1.4 Turbo and it's leaking coolant. I can see it wet right under the top coolant reservoir and leaking down below it but when I pulled it out to inspect under it, I didn't see any obvious leaks from it, not from the plastic container itself nor any of the hoses connected to it. Yet the ABS control model below it has coolant around it. Any common leaks that usually happen around there, maybe the reservoir itself?
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Yes, others have reported the top hose connection fractures at the nipple. I think it might be somewhere else as well. All it takes is a crack that opens up under heat and pressure.
But you also have to check and see if the cap is OK. It might be missing o rings.
One trick I've done with my prior rides is when I bring the car back home, shut it down, pop the hood, look and wait for about 10-15 minutes to see if the leak will show itself. It seems to be that time after shutdown that leaks are most likely to show themselves.
But you also have to check and see if the cap is OK. It might be missing o rings.
One trick I've done with my prior rides is when I bring the car back home, shut it down, pop the hood, look and wait for about 10-15 minutes to see if the leak will show itself. It seems to be that time after shutdown that leaks are most likely to show themselves.
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Both hose connections and the cap's o-ring are the common failure point. If you see coolant residue between the top and bottom O-rings on the cap you need to replace the bottom one. The o-ring I used for my ECO has been replace by the one at https://www.theoringstore.com/index..._info&cPath=368_12_482&products_id=17421&zenid=e4a6f4a0565e1343c9bed350055c11a5, which has a higher temperature rating.
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I had both nipples break off on my 2012 2LS. The bottom was was cracked inside the hose, but the hose was still attached. Coolant was slowing leaking out there and dripping on the stuff below. When I tried to remove the hose, the nipple broke off.
As I began manipulating the upper hose to inspect, the upper nipple broke off, too.
I got a new tank from the dealer and installed it. The good thing was that it had been re-engineered - it came with metal reinforcements in both nipples which should make it more durable.
Based on HERKFOOT21's description, I'd wager his tank has the same issue(s). ( JIC, both cars - LT and LS - use the same tank, p/n: 13465094 .)
Doug
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OK I know this is an old post but I note that Autozone and Oreilly's now stock aftermarket coolant tanks with the hose reinforcements.. Less than $30.
As my car is now pushing 120k miles and the tank looks pretty yellow/degraded I think I will swap mine out as a precaution.
As my car is now pushing 120k miles and the tank looks pretty yellow/degraded I think I will swap mine out as a precaution.
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Go for it. Mine was like ~55 bucks at the dealer, and I'd bet the ones at Oreilly and Autozone are just as good (if not the same).
Doug
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Yup.. Wife is picking one up today..
I replaced the coolant overflow tank this morning. The new Dorman tank from Autozone fitted perfectly.
I disconnected two of the small leads from the battery power distribution (two small leads that run between the battery and the tank) which provides just enough clearance. The battery does not have to be removed.
To drain the coolant I used a length of 1/4" tygon tube that I pushed down into the large hose from inside the tank. I then syphoned the contents of the tank into a jug.
I spilled about a tablespoon of coolant.. Not bad..
Took about 30 minutes for the whole job and the only tool was an 8mm socket for the power lead terminals.
I loosened the vent plug at the radiator to bleed any trapped air but the system did not have any air in it.
Note, the end of the 5/16ths hose connection at the top of the old tank snapped off inside the hose as I was removing it. Its pretty clear the old tank was on its way out at 116,000 miles.
Anyway for $28 it was a worthwhile precaution.
I disconnected two of the small leads from the battery power distribution (two small leads that run between the battery and the tank) which provides just enough clearance. The battery does not have to be removed.
To drain the coolant I used a length of 1/4" tygon tube that I pushed down into the large hose from inside the tank. I then syphoned the contents of the tank into a jug.
I spilled about a tablespoon of coolant.. Not bad..
Took about 30 minutes for the whole job and the only tool was an 8mm socket for the power lead terminals.
I loosened the vent plug at the radiator to bleed any trapped air but the system did not have any air in it.
Note, the end of the 5/16ths hose connection at the top of the old tank snapped off inside the hose as I was removing it. Its pretty clear the old tank was on its way out at 116,000 miles.
Anyway for $28 it was a worthwhile precaution.
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4,877 Posts
Nice! The new tank has a metal collar on the bottom outlet?
Yes, metal insert on both the top and bottom hose connections. Tank looks pretty substantial overall.
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2,210 Posts
I'm now here at 158k miles and noticed today in the high eighties here my coolant has a leak at this obvious weak point. The top hose. I can't complain much in the longevity of it but I will be getting the $30 dorman for replacement this weekend. Glad to see some reengineering here on a replacement. Thanks for the info. Happy Cruzin
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