Does anyone have any advice at all.. ???

 

No advice because it appears you have a part failure that others on the forum have never experienced.

Rob

 

I will be finding out. Mine leaking in same spot.

 

That would be great Little Dan.. The only 2 ways I see it is that you have pull the whole turbo off from headers.. Or you may be able to just to remove the turbo cartridge and with a little bit of swearing and patients you should be able to do it. As you have to get to the back cartridge to unscrew and replace it..

 

The dealer fixed ours under warranty and the whole turbo had to come out. Which was good, because they found a crack in the turbo so we got a new turbo as well. Not to mention a new CAT since a bolt broke off and messed up the CAT.

 

I have this same problem on my 14 Cruze . Wouldn’t of known if I didn’t open hood to jump a car and noticed overfill tank almost empty . They told me turbo coolant feed pipe, return pipe , oil return pipe. Exhaust manifold gasket. Told me not covered . I had a oil leak last month and smelt antifreeze which is why I took it in thinking it was that was oil pan gasket and plug . I had the turbo replaced in October . So I think they should cover this since they done replaced turbo and they coulda done something to it u kno .

 

I was afraid someone would say this... :shoot:GMH for a crap design.. Does anyone know what is all the actual parts list I would need to do this ??.. If the headers come off i have replace the bolts and the gasket, seals on the coolant and oil pipes. Is there a link on here that actually explains in detail,as i cant find it. TIA

 

You should be thankful it isn't a 2010 Australia turbo diesel Cruze .

 

I did replace my turbo coolant pipes on 2013 cruze. GM Parts were:
55568031 pipe,
55567067 pipe,
55572127 pipe fitting (2 required). All were on Amazon.
I also needed 55565351 clamp between turbo and cat. (mine broke).
Pipes can be replaced without removing turbo or header. I removed cat and cat bracket from engine. It wasn't a real bad job. I did break cat to exhaust studs during removal. I pressed broken studs out and am using 8mm bolts instead.
I did repair because I had read on this forum that someones dealer wanted around $700 to fix this. I asked my dealer for an estimate on the repair. Holz GMC in Watertown, WI told me around $250 including parts.

 

I had a coolant leak before, but it didn't affect the turbo.
Probably because the coolant leak caused the turbo to overheat, your turbo ended up dying.

Coolant leaks does more than just destroy the turbo.
Just be glad there's no gasket leak!

 

So you can get the pipes in and out with a bit persistence.. I wonder why GM like to say that they have pull the whole turbo off from the headers then. mmm Money hungry

 

Well the dealership I went to diagnosed it wrong come to find out it was a blowed head gasket

 

So you can get the pipes in and out with a bit persistence.. I wonder why GM like to say that they have pull the whole turbo off from the headers then. mmm Money hungry

 

Little Dan.. finally got my Brother in law to help me in having a go in replacing the pipes. LOL he said are sure you we can do this and i said that you posted this on here and he thought no way . Mind you we did have some fun in doing it Not !!! .. Umm those quick connectors are soo much fun to get at., but we did eventually get them out and got them back in after some swearing.. It is definitely a 2 person job.. but in doing so saved us most likely 1000 AUD .. as they all say you have to take the turbo off at the headers... I would not be surprised if GM have special tools other then the standard one they show on the how to uninstall the turbo install the turbo and just just charge people. Once again thanks and I will back you up that it can be done..... if you have some patients ...

 

I cut the metal part on the hose to take out the hose
And put a new piece of hose without taking the metal tube out
Cost me $4 for a 5"hose and 2 clamps

 

You said the length size is 5" hose, what is the inside diameter size? Thanks for the excellent idea!

 

What size was the hose ? thanks

 

I believe it is 5/16" inside diameter. Mine is leaking so I'm going to try the repair shown by Carver3 to avoid having to remove CAT to access the fittings on the turbo. Purchased some heater hose line from Napa Auto parts and will let you know if it stops my leak.

 

I was quoted $1,200 from chevrolet because turbo coolant pipes were causing a leak. Chevrolet said it is a lot of labor.

55587854
55567067
55568031
and
FOUR SEALS BUT SAME PART# 55571900

They also just had to replace a failure and engine oil leak for the engine oil cooler, valve cover, crank seal gasket. 2011 Chevrolet Cruze LTZ.

 

I have the same problem, but mine only leaks when I turn the car on and the engine it's cold, after is warmed up, theres no dripping, bc I dont want to do any hard work in this cold, I just buy coolant and fill the reservoir up when its needed. ?

 

Anyone else have any new info on this coolant return line from the turbo as there is not a whole lot info on the replacement of this part? I have noticed that mine leaks only on certain days, sometimes only a little and sometimes it drains the whole coolant reservoir tank. Makes no since on why it would only leak sporadically and would like to replace to ease my mind, but seems likes dealers are quoting very different prices to replace this part from some of the posts I have read.

 

bump

 

I believe Carver7 has a good idea. This crossed my mind as well. Cut off the end and replace the rubber piece and add a hose clamp. Will find out this weekend.

 

Update?

 

I pulled my turbo to reseal oil cooler and I put those lines back on after reinstalling turbo. You will be able to get to them from underneath with a wrench

 

Excellent. Thank you sir!

 

 

Year update, still bone dry.

 

Even better. Gracias!

 

Have to do this repair on my daughter's 1.4. Great idea on the regular old hose. May I ask where you bought the heat shield tape?

 

Pardon Our Interruption...

I actually have this much left over if you want a piece, I can snail mail it.

 

Flexible Dryer Vent Duct. If you happen to have an old one, cut a piece from there and wrap around the hose. In my case I used the one that my old hose had. When cutting the metal, one thing I noticed is theat once you cut the metal attached to the plastic hose you don't have to cut the metal hump that connects to the pipe. All you have to do is pull and it will slide. I went to harbor freight and purchase rotary tool kit for $6.99 it's called Drill Master 80pc. It's looks like a cheap toy but you'll be amazed. Plus it gives you more space to work on. After you fix it and if you notice that the radiator cooling fan is in beast mode you need to bleed it because most likely air went into the cooling system. Keep me updated.

 

Since the clamps are made of metal you don't need to worry about wrapping them. The reason the hose is wrapped is because it's so to close to the engine and they wrap it so the rubber doesn't touch the engine and melt.

 

That is exactly why I asked why he did not cover them. The clamps are metal and easily will transfer the engine heat to the clamps and then to the hose increasing the rate of deteriorization of the hose, especially where the slots of the clamp bite into the hose.