What do you mean the right spot? The intake can and the exhaust cam are transposed? Or the cam phasers are not in the correct position?
How-To: Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Timing Adjustment
Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Timing Adjustment
Overview:
There's a surprising lack of articles on this subject, so I'm writing an article on how to adjust timing on the 1.4L Turbo. This will need to be done any time you have to remove a cam, a sprocket, or the timing chain for any reason. Most enthusiasts will need this in order to upgrade valve springs. This tutorial is designed to help you understand what needs to be done to adjust timing and in what order and assumes that you are disconnecting the camshafts. Any time the camshaft bolts are removed, timing has to be adjusted.
If you're here reading this, it is assumed you have some mechanical aptitude and aren't intimidated by removing the cams, or you can afford to have your car inoperable for a weekend. This thread is intended to help you understand the function of each of the tools you are going to be using to set the timing. Ultimately it doesn't matter how you take apart the valvetrain or in what order, but it will certainly help to move things along smoothly if you follow the order I'll describe here.
Tools Required:
- 1.4L timing tool kit. You can get this on Amazon.com. This tool kit is absolutely required. You can find identical tool kits in blue boxes or use the Kent-Moore tool if you're lucky enough to find someone who has it or have deep pockets, but this low-cost option works perfectly.
- 22mm wrench
- Assortment of torx bits up to T50
- Ft Lb and In Lb Torque wrenches
- 24mm socket and extension
Parts Required:
- 2 x GM Camshaft Bolts, 55562224; Available on Amazon.com. These are TTY and MUST be replaced.
PART 1: TIMING TOOLS OVERVIEW
In order to do this job, you will need to buy the tool kit I listed or get the Kent-Moore equivalent (for several times the cost). I've marked each of the tool with a letter to make this easier.
Tool D is the crankshaft fixing tool, which holds the crank at perfectly TDC.
Tool E is the timing chain tensioner fixing tool, which locks the timing chain tensioner in a compressed position.
Tool B is the camshaft locking plate, which holds the camshafts aligned in the correct position relative to the crank at TDC.
Tool C is the intake sprocket holding tool. This is used to hold the intake sprocket in place in addition to maintaining the correct tension on the timing chain.
Tool A is the exciter ring positioning tool. The exciter rings have grooves in specific locations which are used by the sensors on the timing cover to read camshaft position and allow the ECU to manage valve timing. The exciter rings are not marked or grooved and are held in place by the clamping force of the TTY cam bolts.
PART 2: REMOVAL:
First thing you need to do is remove the valve cover, tutorial for that is here: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129...-replace-valve-camshaft-cover-1-4l-turbo.html
Once you do that, you need Piston 1 (passenger-most piston) at approximately TDC. Easiest way to do this is is to remove all of the spark plugs and stick a straw down into the piston, then turn the crank. You can use the 22mm wrench on the cam to turn it, or give the alternator pulley a good twist with your hand. When the straw is at at the top, you're at approximately TDC.
Next, we're going to use Tool D, the "crank fixing tool". Get under the car and look for the following torx plug on the forward facing side of the engine just above the oil pan. Don't need to drain oil to do this.
Remove the plug and insert Tool D to lock the crank at TDC. The tool should go all the way in as shown below. If it doesn't, reach your hand up and turn the alternator pulley until the tool slides all the way in.
Next, go to the driver side of the engine. Right above the belt, but below the crankshaft position actuator solenoid valve, you'll find another torx plug. Remove this as well.
Remove the timing chain guide (the orange plastic thing between the sprockets held down by two bolts).
Place the 22mm wrench over the cam as shown below and pull toward the front of the car to stretch the chain against the tensioner.
While holding tension on the cam, insert tool E, the "timing chain tensioner fixing tool". This part is a bit tricky since you can't see anything in there and don't even know if you're going in straight. Just keep working at it. This picture will show you where you should be going. There is an upside-down "U" shape you need to slide the pin through.
You now have the crank locked at TDC and the timing chain tensioner locked in the compressed position. You are now ready to remove the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves from the side of the engine, remove the camshaft bolts, and do whatever else you might need to. Once you remove the camshaft bolts, the sprockets will simply rest on the timing cover, allowing you to work with the rest of the valvetrain easily.
Camshaft removal and reinstall will be outlined in another thread. During disassembly, be careful to organize all of the parts you take off so they can be placed back in exactly the same location. This includes camshaft rotation, rocker arms, and bearing caps. You will need to place everything back where it was before.
Next post will describe how to set timing during re-assembly.
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No, in your picture your timing is not correct.
These instruction below are all by memory and also are dependent on that you have the intake cam (firewall side) and exhaust cam (radiator side) are on their side and didn't get switched. If I remember, you did NOT REMOVE THEM RIGHT?
I would read through this whole post twice or more to get a bearing of the steps.
1st. Make sure you have #1 cylinder (closest to timing chain) at top dead center (tdc). do this by having all spark plugs removed (makes it easier to turn crank and cams) or at least #1. And putting a long straight rod or screwdriver into cylinder #1 and turn till it is up as far as it will go and then insert the crankshaft locking pin. If you've already done this then next step. timing cover marks too if you have your cover on still.
2nd. make sure your tensioner is in the non-tension position with the pin locked in place.
3rd. Loosen both the cam phaser bolts and remove both the sprockets and exciter rings wheels (odd shaped pieces on outside of sprockets).
4th. At this point make sure your intake cam (one by firewall) and exhaust cam (one by radiator) are in the "closed position" You have to use a 22mm I believe wrench to rotate. The smaller flat part of the end of camshafts should be up top and the "u" shape should be on bottom and your locking plate slide into the slot. This a NON-INTERFERENCE engine so you should be able to spin them freely without an issue.
5th. Put the locking plate on back side of cams to hold them in place. You should only need to move them clockwise or counter clockwise no more than 1/16" in either direction to slide plate in place.
6th. Now slide sprockets onto cams and make sure they are aligned onto them easily. Not crooked by even a little bit. Also put exciter wheels on and screw in sprocket bolts and hand tighten, leaving enough to allow sprockets to rotate freely but not move off and on the cams. exciters should be able to be turned too freely but not loosely. Both sprockets are the same, so if they got swapped it won't matter but it's best to make sure they got put back on the cams they came off of. Mine had a #1 on the intake side and a #3 on the exhaust side.
7th. Align your camshaft sprockets in their proper positions with identifying timing marks. Each sprocket will have a line right above the bolt hole. this line should be facing straight to the top of the engine on each sprocket. If these are straight up then the half circle indention up and to the right on each sprocket should be to the right about 60°.
8th. put the sprocket holding tool in place and follow instruction that came with tool on aligning those two parts and tighten down. When tightened again, both little lines above each sprocket bolt should be straight up.
(I like to leave the bolt in the crankshaft without the harmonic balancer on and a long extension and ratchet wrench to make it all easy to get to while holding the chain up top too)
8th. At this point take the chain starting from the right hand exhaust radiator side and pull snug to set onto exhaust sprocket being careful not to pull too hard to accidently move the crank sprocket (if crank lock pin is installed correctly you won't be able to turn it in either direction) but you do not want any slack on the right side going down to crank once you have it on the exhaust sprocket. Now pull it over snug onto the intake sprocket. There shouldn't be any excessive play in between the two and it should rest snuggly on top of sprocket holding tool.
9th. Now align your exciter rings like in the picture so that your aligning tool will hold those in place. They are different and have to be aligned just like in picture or tool will not hold them in place. Once you have them aligned and tool attached. Make sure the exciter aligning tool is installed equally on both side of cylinder head (not too far left or right) and centered.
excerpt from xtremerevolution --- Install Tool A, the "exciter ring positioning tool." All bolts on the tools need to be tightened to 71 lb in. Make sure there is no clearance at the two outer mounting points on the exciter ring positioning tool.
10th. Once you know you have your tools locked in place and double checked chain snugness at this point and made sure that crank is still snug at TDC against the crank locking pin. You can go ahead and hold the intake camshaft with a 22mm wrench and tighten the camshaft bolt. torque to 37ftlbs (please have a torque wrench, it is for peace of mind and if you choose to buy a nice enough one, get one with "angle torque") Torque to 37ftlbs and then tighten the exhaust camshaft bolt to 37ftlbs. MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE CAMSHAFT YOU ARE TIGHTENING BOLT DOWN ON WITH A 22MM WRENCH. The locking tools are not meant to hold parts for torqueing, only for aligning timing. Do your best to keep the 22mm wrench from moving, only move the torque wrench
Now go back to intake camshaft and keep 22mm wrench in place and you can use your angle torque wrench if you bought one, but if not just take the socket and another long enough ratchet wrench to toque the bolt to 60° degrees.
Degrees are pretty simple to comprehend. Starting from holding ratchet wrench straight up vertical from cylinder head, turn wrench to the right till you get to 45° and then go in between 45 and 90°. Do this to both sprocket bolts. 37ftlbs and then 60° each.
You can also take a piece of cardboard and draw a 60° angle line and a vertical 0° line and set it right behind sprockets for a reference point.
11th. Now at this point you can take out all the locking tools. I like to start from front to back. Take off exciter lock, sprocket lock, and then camshaft lock, and crank lock pin. Install original metal/plastic chain guide in between sprockets and tighten to 71inchlbs.. So pull the timing chain tensioner holding pin and this will set the chain in proper time tension.
12th. Now turn clockwise (not counter clockwise) the crankshaft two full rotations referencing the two lines on the cam sprockets straight up and a rod or screwdriver in cylinder one and insert crank lock pin to test to see if you are still in time.
If you have the timing cover off, it does make it so much easier to do all this, because some find it easier to put chain on and make sure it's snug starting from crank sprocket counter clockwise while having the tensioner guide off.
Also if you have the cover off, I like to scratch a timing line on the crank sprocket at the 2 o clock position or 45° position in line with the timing mark that is on the timing cover (see photo), I like to scratch a line on the block where this timing cover line is down by the sprocket. See picture of timing hole on harmonic balancer. That way, when rotating and rechecking timing alignment, it's easier to just look at that scratch line and the two lines on the cam sprockets.
**where #1 is on the timing cover I like to look for or make a reference mark on the block in same area once cover is off and also #2 on the balancer, I make a reference mark on crank sprocket to help at the end when rotating clockwise to check for time.
13th. Take the sprocket tool and make sure it lines in place and take the exciter lock and make sure it fits into place. If so you are good to go.
If you followed this properly then you should be good to go.
Some thoughts to consider. If you actually took camshafts out and reinstalled them, they are different. There is an intake and exhaust camshaft. There is an intake and exhaust exciter ring.
If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. Also make sure when installing gaskets, that rtv gasket material is used where the block and cylinder head meet. also where the timing cover and the oil pan meet. also where the timing cover, cylinder head and valve cover meets. These areas will leak boost and oil if not sealed properly.
I hope this post is not too complicated I did my best to make is streamlined and straight to the point.
Xtremerevolutions tutorial is pretty straight forward too.
There are also multiple videos on youtube. The two videos below are a tremendous help. Even though they are in different languages, you can use the youtube video settings and go to auto translate and then autotranslate to english.
German but go to video setting and auto translate subtitles. Not perfect translation but helps.
spanish but use auto translate in video settings
This picture, you have the tool upside down/ wrong way. That hole is suppose to be at the top right corner of the engine....(if it makes a difference) >according to the manual
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
This picture, you have the tool upside down/ wrong way. That hole is suppose to be at the top right corner of the engine....(if it makes a difference) >according to the manual
Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Timing Adjustment
Overview:
There's a surprising lack of articles on this subject, so I'm writing an article on how to adjust timing on the 1.4L Turbo. This will need to be done any time you have to remove a cam, a sprocket, or the timing chain for any reason. Most enthusiasts will need this in order to upgrade valve springs. This tutorial is designed to help you understand what needs to be done to adjust timing and in what order and assumes that you are disconnecting the camshafts. Any time the camshaft bolts are removed, timing has to be adjusted.
If you're here reading this, it is assumed you have some mechanical aptitude and aren't intimidated by removing the cams, or you can afford to have your car inoperable for a weekend. This thread is intended to help you understand the function of each of the tools you are going to be using to set the timing. Ultimately it doesn't matter how you take apart the valvetrain or in what order, but it will certainly help to move things along smoothly if you follow the order I'll describe here.
Tools Required:
- 1.4L timing tool kit. You can get this on Amazon.com. This tool kit is absolutely required. You can find identical tool kits in blue boxes or use the Kent-Moore tool if you're lucky enough to find someone who has it or have deep pockets, but this low-cost option works perfectly.
- 22mm wrench
- Assortment of torx bits up to T50
- Ft Lb and In Lb Torque wrenches
- 24mm socket and extension
Parts Required:
- 2 x GM Camshaft Bolts, 55562224; Available on Amazon.com. These are TTY and MUST be replaced.
PART 1: TIMING TOOLS OVERVIEW
In order to do this job, you will need to buy the tool kit I listed or get the Kent-Moore equivalent (for several times the cost). I've marked each of the tool with a letter to make this easier.
![]()
Tool D is the crankshaft fixing tool, which holds the crank at perfectly TDC.
Tool E is the timing chain tensioner fixing tool, which locks the timing chain tensioner in a compressed position.
Tool B is the camshaft locking plate, which holds the camshafts aligned in the correct position relative to the crank at TDC.
Tool C is the intake sprocket holding tool. This is used to hold the intake sprocket in place in addition to maintaining the correct tension on the timing chain.
Tool A is the exciter ring positioning tool. The exciter rings have grooves in specific locations which are used by the sensors on the timing cover to read camshaft position and allow the ECU to manage valve timing. The exciter rings are not marked or grooved and are held in place by the clamping force of the TTY cam bolts.
PART 2: REMOVAL:
First thing you need to do is remove the valve cover, tutorial for that is here: How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)
Once you do that, you need Piston 1 (passenger-most piston) at approximately TDC. Easiest way to do this is is to remove all of the spark plugs and stick a straw down into the piston, then turn the crank. You can use the 22mm wrench on the cam to turn it, or give the alternator pulley a good twist with your hand. When the straw is at at the top, you're at approximately TDC.
![]()
Next, we're going to use Tool D, the "crank fixing tool". Get under the car and look for the following torx plug on the forward facing side of the engine just above the oil pan. Don't need to drain oil to do this.
![]()
Remove the plug and insert Tool D to lock the crank at TDC. The tool should go all the way in as shown below. If it doesn't, reach your hand up and turn the alternator pulley until the tool slides all the way in.
![]()
Next, go to the driver side of the engine. Right above the belt, but below the crankshaft position actuator solenoid valve, you'll find another torx plug. Remove this as well.
![]()
Remove the timing chain guide (the orange plastic thing between the sprockets held down by two bolts).
Place the 22mm wrench over the cam as shown below and pull toward the front of the car to stretch the chain against the tensioner.
![]()
While holding tension on the cam, insert tool E, the "timing chain tensioner fixing tool". This part is a bit tricky since you can't see anything in there and don't even know if you're going in straight. Just keep working at it. This picture will show you where you should be going. There is an upside-down "U" shape you need to slide the pin through.
![]()
You now have the crank locked at TDC and the timing chain tensioner locked in the compressed position. You are now ready to remove the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves from the side of the engine, remove the camshaft bolts, and do whatever else you might need to. Once you remove the camshaft bolts, the sprockets will simply rest on the timing cover, allowing you to work with the rest of the valvetrain easily.
Camshaft removal and reinstall will be outlined in another thread. During disassembly, be careful to organize all of the parts you take off so they can be placed back in exactly the same location. This includes camshaft rotation, rocker arms, and bearing caps. You will need to place everything back where it was before.
Next post will describe how to set timing during re-assembly.
I know this post is a few years old, but I have a question. Is that timing tool kit for the 1st Gen or 2nd Gen 1.4 turbo cruze. I believe the 2nd Gen version started in the 2016 model. I need to adjust the timing on a camshaft, and can't find any timing tools. Thanks in advance for any guidance.Cruze/Sonic 1.4L Turbo LUV/LUJ Timing Adjustment
Overview:
There's a surprising lack of articles on this subject, so I'm writing an article on how to adjust timing on the 1.4L Turbo. This will need to be done any time you have to remove a cam, a sprocket, or the timing chain for any reason. Most enthusiasts will need this in order to upgrade valve springs. This tutorial is designed to help you understand what needs to be done to adjust timing and in what order and assumes that you are disconnecting the camshafts. Any time the camshaft bolts are removed, timing has to be adjusted.
If you're here reading this, it is assumed you have some mechanical aptitude and aren't intimidated by removing the cams, or you can afford to have your car inoperable for a weekend. This thread is intended to help you understand the function of each of the tools you are going to be using to set the timing. Ultimately it doesn't matter how you take apart the valvetrain or in what order, but it will certainly help to move things along smoothly if you follow the order I'll describe here.
Tools Required:
- 1.4L timing tool kit. You can get this on Amazon.com. This tool kit is absolutely required. You can find identical tool kits in blue boxes or use the Kent-Moore tool if you're lucky enough to find someone who has it or have deep pockets, but this low-cost option works perfectly.
- 22mm wrench
- Assortment of torx bits up to T50
- Ft Lb and In Lb Torque wrenches
- 24mm socket and extension
Parts Required:
- 2 x GM Camshaft Bolts, 55562224; Available on Amazon.com. These are TTY and MUST be replaced.
PART 1: TIMING TOOLS OVERVIEW
In order to do this job, you will need to buy the tool kit I listed or get the Kent-Moore equivalent (for several times the cost). I've marked each of the tool with a letter to make this easier.
![]()
Tool D is the crankshaft fixing tool, which holds the crank at perfectly TDC.
Tool E is the timing chain tensioner fixing tool, which locks the timing chain tensioner in a compressed position.
Tool B is the camshaft locking plate, which holds the camshafts aligned in the correct position relative to the crank at TDC.
Tool C is the intake sprocket holding tool. This is used to hold the intake sprocket in place in addition to maintaining the correct tension on the timing chain.
Tool A is the exciter ring positioning tool. The exciter rings have grooves in specific locations which are used by the sensors on the timing cover to read camshaft position and allow the ECU to manage valve timing. The exciter rings are not marked or grooved and are held in place by the clamping force of the TTY cam bolts.
PART 2: REMOVAL:
First thing you need to do is remove the valve cover, tutorial for that is here: How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)
Once you do that, you need Piston 1 (passenger-most piston) at approximately TDC. Easiest way to do this is is to remove all of the spark plugs and stick a straw down into the piston, then turn the crank. You can use the 22mm wrench on the cam to turn it, or give the alternator pulley a good twist with your hand. When the straw is at at the top, you're at approximately TDC.
![]()
Next, we're going to use Tool D, the "crank fixing tool". Get under the car and look for the following torx plug on the forward facing side of the engine just above the oil pan. Don't need to drain oil to do this.
![]()
Remove the plug and insert Tool D to lock the crank at TDC. The tool should go all the way in as shown below. If it doesn't, reach your hand up and turn the alternator pulley until the tool slides all the way in.
![]()
Next, go to the driver side of the engine. Right above the belt, but below the crankshaft position actuator solenoid valve, you'll find another torx plug. Remove this as well.
![]()
Remove the timing chain guide (the orange plastic thing between the sprockets held down by two bolts).
Place the 22mm wrench over the cam as shown below and pull toward the front of the car to stretch the chain against the tensioner.
![]()
While holding tension on the cam, insert tool E, the "timing chain tensioner fixing tool". This part is a bit tricky since you can't see anything in there and don't even know if you're going in straight. Just keep working at it. This picture will show you where you should be going. There is an upside-down "U" shape you need to slide the pin through.
![]()
You now have the crank locked at TDC and the timing chain tensioner locked in the compressed position. You are now ready to remove the camshaft position actuator solenoid valves from the side of the engine, remove the camshaft bolts, and do whatever else you might need to. Once you remove the camshaft bolts, the sprockets will simply rest on the timing cover, allowing you to work with the rest of the valvetrain easily.
Camshaft removal and reinstall will be outlined in another thread. During disassembly, be careful to organize all of the parts you take off so they can be placed back in exactly the same location. This includes camshaft rotation, rocker arms, and bearing caps. You will need to place everything back where it was before.
Next post will describe how to set timing during re-assembly.
101 - 120 of 154 Posts
