How-To: Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors
Overview:
At some point in your Cruze ownership, your brake pads and rotors will need to be replaced. In my case, the rotors needed to be replaced before the pads due to uneven wear (note: rotors don't warp). This was the first job I did on the first car I ever owned, so it would only be appropriate to provide a tutorial for others to do this as well, especially given that everyone is guaranteed to require this service.
Many people are intimidated by the concept of servicing their own brakes, since they are critical safety components. Let me assure you that the process is straightforward and simple, and with a little bit of elbow grease, the job can be done in 2-3 hours if you take your time. Follow the steps and verify your work, and you won't have any safety issues to worry about. Changing brakes is not "rocket science." For this particular tutorial, I opted to take detailed photos of each step to make you comfortable enough with the process to service your own vehicle.
Tools Required:
- Wrench with 10mm, 18mm, and 19mm sockets
- Torque wrench
- Breaker bar - do not attempt this job without one
- T30 screwdriver/bit
- Flathead screwdriver
- Standard claw hammer
- Center punch
- ~2 feet of bailing wire, rope, electrical wire, or anything of that nature.
- Channel-lock or brake piston compress tool
- Jack and jack stand
Part Required:
Brake rotors and pads. I decided to go with Centric brake parts. You can review my reasoning in the following thread: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/12-...orum/12-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/126562-centric-oe-brake-kit-upgrade.html
If following with my choice of brake components, you will need the following part numbers:
2 x Centric 120.62130 (rotors) - Available on Amazon.com
1 x Centric 106.15220 (pads) - Available on Amazon.com
Total should be about $150 (give or take) for everything.
Procedure:
The first thing you need to do before you change brakes is pull the the hand brake. Lift one side of the car enough to get the wheel clear off the ground. Place the jackstand underneath the car, then lower the car onto the jackstand. Do not keep the car supported on only the jack. A jack is intended only to lift the car, not to hold it up. You only need to have one side of the car lifted at a time.
Using the 19mm deep socket or the lugnut removal tool, take the wheel off.
![Image]()
Lift the brake line/bushing out of the bracket behind the brake caliper.
![Image]()
There are two 10mm caliper guide pin bolts at the rear of the caliper. Remove them both.
![Image]()
![Image]()
If you're having trouble removing the top bolt due to clearance, you can run an extension through the brake hose bracket.
![Image]()
Slide the caliper off by simply lifting it outward from the hub.
![Image]()
Suspend the brake caliper from the spring coil or the strut using the bailing wire (or equivalent). This is so that you don't place unneeded stress on the brake line and keeps it out of the way while you work on the rest of the brake system.
![Image]()
Remove the brake pads from the brake caliper. These will slide right out.
![Image]()
Turn the car to the on position, but do not start the engine, and turn the steering wheel to the direction that corresponds to the side of the car you are working on, then remove the key.
Behind the brake rotor, there are two 18mm bolts holding the brake caliper bracket in place. Remove these using the breaker bar. You'll need to put some muscle into this as they are on fairly tight.
![Image]()
![Image]()
With both bolts removed, the brake caliper bracket will fall right off. Observe the two metal shims mounted to the insides. Remove these using the flathead screwdriver.
![Image]()
Next, we need to remove the T30 torx bolt from the brake rotor. This may be a bit tricky since they tend to get stuck in northern weather. I found that the best way to loosten it is to give it a few really good whacks with a hammer and center punch.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Use the T30 bit/screwdriver to remove the T30 torx bolt. I had to use both hands on the screwdriver to get this to break free.
![Image]()
If you live in the northern part of the US or Canada, chances are your rotor will be stuck to the hub. Give the back of the rotor a few good whacks with the hammer, rotating the rotor 1/4 turn occasionally. If you hit it hard enough, it will eventually pop out. Once you get the old rotor loosened, it will slide right off the studs.
Place the new rotor onto the hub, being careful to align the T30 bolt hole. Tighten the T30 bolt hand snug (it doesn't have to be very tight). Remember, you may need to get it off again someday. Alternately, you can just leave the T30 bolt off entirely as it's only really used for assembly purposes.
![Image]()
Reinstall the caliper bracket. Torque the bolts to 74lb-ft, plus another 60-75 degrees of turn (about 1/5 to 1/6 of a turn).
![Image]()
You should have 4 metal shims with your brake pads. Install these on the brake caliper bracket by pressing them into the ends.
![Image]()
Install the brake pads onto the brake caliper bracket. You will notice that the pads are slightly different. Install the pad with the low depth indicator on the inside of the brake rotor. This is the brake pad I'm holding on the right.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Next, you need to slowly compress the piston in the brake caliper. The correct way to do it is to get a brake caliper piston compressor tool, but I didn't have one on hand so I used a channel-lock. Just tighten it slowly and it will go back in. This will allow you to slide the caliper back over the brake pads.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Reinstall the brake caliper as you removed it, and torque the 10mm bolts to 21lb-ft.
![Image]()
Press the brake hose bushing back into its bracket. Double-check that the caliper bolts are tight. Reinstall the wheel. Torque lugnuts in a star pattern to 100lb-ft.
Repeat for the other side.
Once both sides are done and the car is back on the ground, turn the car on, and pump the brakes until you feel resistance again.
Overview:
At some point in your Cruze ownership, your brake pads and rotors will need to be replaced. In my case, the rotors needed to be replaced before the pads due to uneven wear (note: rotors don't warp). This was the first job I did on the first car I ever owned, so it would only be appropriate to provide a tutorial for others to do this as well, especially given that everyone is guaranteed to require this service.
Many people are intimidated by the concept of servicing their own brakes, since they are critical safety components. Let me assure you that the process is straightforward and simple, and with a little bit of elbow grease, the job can be done in 2-3 hours if you take your time. Follow the steps and verify your work, and you won't have any safety issues to worry about. Changing brakes is not "rocket science." For this particular tutorial, I opted to take detailed photos of each step to make you comfortable enough with the process to service your own vehicle.
Tools Required:
- Wrench with 10mm, 18mm, and 19mm sockets
- Torque wrench
- Breaker bar - do not attempt this job without one
- T30 screwdriver/bit
- Flathead screwdriver
- Standard claw hammer
- Center punch
- ~2 feet of bailing wire, rope, electrical wire, or anything of that nature.
- Channel-lock or brake piston compress tool
- Jack and jack stand
Part Required:
Brake rotors and pads. I decided to go with Centric brake parts. You can review my reasoning in the following thread: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/12-...orum/12-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/126562-centric-oe-brake-kit-upgrade.html
If following with my choice of brake components, you will need the following part numbers:
2 x Centric 120.62130 (rotors) - Available on Amazon.com
1 x Centric 106.15220 (pads) - Available on Amazon.com
Total should be about $150 (give or take) for everything.
Procedure:
The first thing you need to do before you change brakes is pull the the hand brake. Lift one side of the car enough to get the wheel clear off the ground. Place the jackstand underneath the car, then lower the car onto the jackstand. Do not keep the car supported on only the jack. A jack is intended only to lift the car, not to hold it up. You only need to have one side of the car lifted at a time.
Using the 19mm deep socket or the lugnut removal tool, take the wheel off.
Lift the brake line/bushing out of the bracket behind the brake caliper.
There are two 10mm caliper guide pin bolts at the rear of the caliper. Remove them both.
If you're having trouble removing the top bolt due to clearance, you can run an extension through the brake hose bracket.
Slide the caliper off by simply lifting it outward from the hub.
Suspend the brake caliper from the spring coil or the strut using the bailing wire (or equivalent). This is so that you don't place unneeded stress on the brake line and keeps it out of the way while you work on the rest of the brake system.
Remove the brake pads from the brake caliper. These will slide right out.
Turn the car to the on position, but do not start the engine, and turn the steering wheel to the direction that corresponds to the side of the car you are working on, then remove the key.
Behind the brake rotor, there are two 18mm bolts holding the brake caliper bracket in place. Remove these using the breaker bar. You'll need to put some muscle into this as they are on fairly tight.
With both bolts removed, the brake caliper bracket will fall right off. Observe the two metal shims mounted to the insides. Remove these using the flathead screwdriver.
Next, we need to remove the T30 torx bolt from the brake rotor. This may be a bit tricky since they tend to get stuck in northern weather. I found that the best way to loosten it is to give it a few really good whacks with a hammer and center punch.
Use the T30 bit/screwdriver to remove the T30 torx bolt. I had to use both hands on the screwdriver to get this to break free.
If you live in the northern part of the US or Canada, chances are your rotor will be stuck to the hub. Give the back of the rotor a few good whacks with the hammer, rotating the rotor 1/4 turn occasionally. If you hit it hard enough, it will eventually pop out. Once you get the old rotor loosened, it will slide right off the studs.
Place the new rotor onto the hub, being careful to align the T30 bolt hole. Tighten the T30 bolt hand snug (it doesn't have to be very tight). Remember, you may need to get it off again someday. Alternately, you can just leave the T30 bolt off entirely as it's only really used for assembly purposes.
Reinstall the caliper bracket. Torque the bolts to 74lb-ft, plus another 60-75 degrees of turn (about 1/5 to 1/6 of a turn).
You should have 4 metal shims with your brake pads. Install these on the brake caliper bracket by pressing them into the ends.
Install the brake pads onto the brake caliper bracket. You will notice that the pads are slightly different. Install the pad with the low depth indicator on the inside of the brake rotor. This is the brake pad I'm holding on the right.
Next, you need to slowly compress the piston in the brake caliper. The correct way to do it is to get a brake caliper piston compressor tool, but I didn't have one on hand so I used a channel-lock. Just tighten it slowly and it will go back in. This will allow you to slide the caliper back over the brake pads.
Reinstall the brake caliper as you removed it, and torque the 10mm bolts to 21lb-ft.
Press the brake hose bushing back into its bracket. Double-check that the caliper bolts are tight. Reinstall the wheel. Torque lugnuts in a star pattern to 100lb-ft.
Repeat for the other side.
Once both sides are done and the car is back on the ground, turn the car on, and pump the brakes until you feel resistance again.
