This does seem to be a puzzling procedure. I need to just get the Helm Inc repair manual already.

 

I drained my A/T cold and replaced the exact amount that came out (4 quarts, 12 oz.) with Castrol Dexron VI and Lubegard Red at 24K. I now have 26K and have felt no negatives (or positives) since doing it. I'm happy to have replaced approx. half the OE fluid with fresh stuff. I plan on doing this every 25K which should insure a constant supply of fresh additives...I think this is a better plan than flushing....

 

The only catch with this method is that you do not get 100% of the fluid out and therefore will not be able to fall back on any warranty any fluid manufacturer offers you for the fluid you are using. It generally won't be an issue, but it is worth mentioning.

That said, I have not yet seen proof that any dealership performs a complete flush of the transmission fluid in the Cruze.

 

This is the procedure I used, which I confirmed is the same procedure, word for word, from the AllData repair manual:

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/801b6-chevrolet-cruze-type-transmission-oil-does-car.html

FYI, AllData is a site that independent shops subscribe to. The information is populated from the OEMs to generate a database for performing repairs. This is why your independent oil shops can change the oil in your car.

 

This is the procedure I used, which I confirmed is the same procedure, word for word, from the AllData repair manual:

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/801b6-chevrolet-cruze-type-transmission-oil-does-car.html

FYI, AllData is a site that independent shops subscribe to. The information is populated from the OEMs to generate a database for performing repairs. This is why your independent oil shops can change the oil in your car.

I wonder why this particular dealer chooses to perform the service differently then? :eek7: Seems simple enough that I feel confident I can do it myself. I just don't want to miss anything important and then discover trans issues down the line...


Procedure posted below:

• Start the engine.
• Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about 3 seconds in each range. Then move the shift lever back to PARK (P).
• Allow the engine to idle between 500 to 800 RPM for at least 3 minutes, to allow any fluid frothing to dissipate and the fluid level to stabilize. Release the brake pedal
• Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
• While the vehicle is idling, remove the fluid level plug (3). Allow any fluid to drain into a drip pan.
  • If the fluid is flowing as a steady stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip. Continue with step 10.
  • If no fluid comes out, add fluid until it drips out of the fluid level plug hole. Continue with step 7.
• Lower the vehicle.
• Remove the transmission vent hose (2) and the transmission fluid filler cap (1).
• While the vehicle is idling, add fluid through the fluid filler cap hole, until fluid is flowing as a stream out of the fluid level plug hole. Wait until the fluid is only dripping out of the fluid level plug hole.
• Stop the engine.
• Install the transmission fluid filler cap (1) and the transmission vent hose (2).
• Raise the vehicle.
• Install the fluid level plug (3)
• Lower the vehicle.

 

One thing I noticed in the procedure is raising the vehicle on a hoist. Does keeping the vehicle perfectly level have a huge impact? Obviously this would be difficult to do on ramps or jacks in the front unless I'll need to also raise the rear...

 

The level plug depends on the trans being level, or else you might drain out too much/not enough. You don't have to have a lift though. If I didn't have that available, I would measure the fender height, pull the wheel, and when doing the level plug adjustment, lower the jack down to that fender height measurement. The plug is easy to get to with the wheel off.

I'm not sure of the procedure differences and what benefits the dealer has over this. Supposedly it gets out more fluid, but idk. I ran mine through the gears on the lift and let things work through, so I think I got a good amount replaced.

 

ATF is extracted out and refilled that is how it is replaced today !

 

Here's an update on my A/T D&R after several months and 6K miles....it's shifting better than ever.

I must have gotten the fluid level right and I believe the Lubegard Red has also helped as I haven't had a jerky shift in quite a while.
I'm very happy with my A/T fluid partial change.

 

Bump. Looking for more feedback on the procedures. I'd like to get this done during my time off which is first week of August.

Thanks

Sent from my Samsung GS5

 

Can someome
show an actual picture of the transmission vent hose? Is this the same procedure for a 2011 LS automatic transmission? Because looking into the engine bay, I see the filler but no transmission vent hose.

 

The fill cap has the vent built into it.

I just D&F my fluid yesterday. By accident I found that when vehicle is level and engine off and removing fill to plug you will get about a quart of fluid. I then pulled drain plug and got another 3 and 3/4 quarts. When filling and engine off fluid began to flow out of after 4 quarts. I then started engine and then could add the additional 1 and 1/4 quarts. Next time I will add 3 qts then start engine and add til it drips out of fill to plug. It seems that the fluid level with engine off is higher than the fill to plug. Made sense to me and no issues today after about 50 miles.

BTW after filling I drove 10-15 miles then lifted and leveled and checked the level with engine running. Had to add maybe a 1/8 quart or less to get it to drip out hole. Good luck and dont worry.

 

So if this is all the official way to do it according to the factory service info via alldata, why are dealerships charging $199-$300 for this service? I want answers. Can anyone show the labor numbers on alldata?

 

Well there selling the fluid at top price and labor rates at dealers are also high. Put those together and your paying those prices. I asked my dealer and the said they used a machine to flush and not just a drain and fill hence paying for more fluid.

 

Yes. Why would you not out back what drained out?

 

After reading all the post on cruzetalk alot of people said to fill the trans till fluid starts dripping out of the fill plug on the drivers side of the trans while the cars is running. That's what I did 3 times and always ended up pouring in 4.2 quarts. Why would GM over fill the trans by 1.6 quart at the factory?

 

It's highly unlikely they did. Of it had been overfilled by 1.6 quarts it would have been venting it out, or churning and aerating it causing shifting issues, vibrations, etc. I've never seen a factory filled unit over filled by more than even a few ounces, let alone almost 2 quarts. I'd highly recommend you get someway to assess you fluid temp and set the fluid level properly. Fluid is meant to be approx 194F(90C) when level is set.

 

No I hear what you are saying. I do have the scan tool to check the trans temp and everytime I got the trans up to temp and yes 90C I would pour in 4.2 quarts then fluid would start dripping out of the full plug. The three times I have drained the trans and made sure the trans was up to temp everytime I was only able to put in 4.2 quarts till oil started to drip out of the fill plug. Also I have read a post on this site from a amsoil person and he said that 5.6 quarts of fluid came out and refilled the trans at 4.2 quarts. I get that you should measure the amount of fluid that comes out and put the same amount back in but than what is the point of fill plug on the driver side of the trans because that would be wrong right?

 

I feel the issue may be arising that people are draining it cold and filling it hot? I honestly can't fully understand exactly what's happening or why it's hard. LOL. Drain it cold, put back in what you took out.