Since I got my used Chevy Cruze LT 1.4 L which has been I would say almost a year maybe less. Anyways, the radiator fan would run so hard and loud numerous times whenever I would put my air conditioning on. I didn't think anything of it until my co-worker had a look at it and said that's not normal how loud that is. I took it to a mechanic I know who is now retired and has a shop in the back. He said I need my whole radiator fan plus the assembly done I will eventually add a video on this for anyone else who has this issue. I will also add when I get it fixed how everything sounds after.
arose513
RADIATOR FAN RUNNING REALLY LOUD AND NUMEROUS TIMES
Common problem with the Cruze. The resistors that make the fan a 3-speed burn out and all that's left is "jet mode". The computer is working with that it has. Some have indicated the resistor pack is available separately, but the GM solution is replace the whole fan assembly.
With the turbo, you have to remove the front end of the car to access the rad fan... Bumper cover, rad pack/ mounts, even possibly draining the rad pending on competents.
Non turbo, bend the ac lines out of the way and your golden.
Non turbo, bend the ac lines out of the way and your golden.
Please only buy a GM Genuine fan assembly. They are more expensive but will last. The aftermarket fans will not last as the resistor pack will fail because the resistors are not as heavy duty as the GM.
I have replaced my daughter's 2014 fan twice...1st time with a Duralast-failed in 5 months. And recently with a GM.
Your 2014 also may have the transmission oil cooler inside the radiator so the trans cooler lines are routed right on top of the radiator fan shroud. You can get away with removing only the top line but be sure to have replacement trans cooler line connectors handy and extra "clips". Dorman brand works ok. Also have a quart of DEXRON 6 trans fluid if any is lost during the repair. And top off trans fluid using factory instructions.
Also, it is important to verify what brand of fan is in the car now before buying the GM fan "motor/blade" only part, as it will only fit into a GM fan "shroud" part. They are available seperately.
I was intimidated doing the 1st fan job, but it is pretty straight forward if you follow directions. Lots of details but all important. Here is a lengthy thread regarding fan stuff:
www.cruzetalk.com
Good Luck!
I have replaced my daughter's 2014 fan twice...1st time with a Duralast-failed in 5 months. And recently with a GM.
Your 2014 also may have the transmission oil cooler inside the radiator so the trans cooler lines are routed right on top of the radiator fan shroud. You can get away with removing only the top line but be sure to have replacement trans cooler line connectors handy and extra "clips". Dorman brand works ok. Also have a quart of DEXRON 6 trans fluid if any is lost during the repair. And top off trans fluid using factory instructions.
Also, it is important to verify what brand of fan is in the car now before buying the GM fan "motor/blade" only part, as it will only fit into a GM fan "shroud" part. They are available seperately.
I was intimidated doing the 1st fan job, but it is pretty straight forward if you follow directions. Lots of details but all important. Here is a lengthy thread regarding fan stuff:
Why do engine fan resistors fail??
There are a huge number of fan threads with great info on repair/replacement of the cooling fan but I am still left with the question, why do the resistors fail? My 2012 eco at 210k and 11 years of service has the original fan and it's working fine. I was hoping to install a gm fan today. It is...
www.cruzetalk.com
Good Luck!
Have you checked your MAF sensor??? When they go bad your fan tends to come on all the time... to check...with your car on remove the plug to the MAF sensor and see if there is a change of idle in the motor...there should be a change and your fan should kick right on when you unplug...if you unplug and no change than your MAF sensor is bad....
So I had the same problem on the 2011 eco we just bought. Just finish replacing it with a new GM fan and it is still doing the same thing. Anything else I should check? Thanks
I replaced the radiator coolant temp sensor today with new GM part. Cooling fan and shroud installed yesterday also GM parts. So just wondering I’m watching the fan to see how it acts and monitoring Obd 2 info.
AC off idling it got to 233 deg and the fan kicked on. Once fan came on temp went to 201 then back to 219 ish and stayed there
AC on the fan comes on right away and stays on.
Does it ever go off once it comes on? As we write this post it’s been about 9 mins and fan still going…
AC off idling it got to 233 deg and the fan kicked on. Once fan came on temp went to 201 then back to 219 ish and stayed there
AC on the fan comes on right away and stays on.
Does it ever go off once it comes on? As we write this post it’s been about 9 mins and fan still going…
I had the car running for 2 hours mostly idling. Drove around our neighborhood and a short few miles of highway. Temp stayed mainly around 219-221. When I got home from driving fan shut off and then kicked back on at 233. I guess it shuts off at a certain speed. I think 2 hours is safe to say it’s working. I did read on the forum that the temp gauge inside the car doesn’t really work well. If that’s the case and I think it is cuz ours stops at one bar below half and never moves any higher even though I can see the coolant temp 220-230, how would you know the cars is getting too hot. Is there a better gauge?
Glad you are seeing normal temps.
The dash gauge will start to increase past the "1 click below center" at about 240, absurd but all gen 1s are all like that.
Fan will always stay on with ac or defrost.
217-221 is a typical operating temp but going up to 230 or down to 210 will happen. Remember that the computer is controling the temp for either efficiency(higher temp), or for performance(reducing temp). T-stat is electronically controled as well.
On year 2012 eco only(my eco year), there is "coolant temp' in the dic. This display truely saved my car from destruction when I hit 90-100k and the coolant system parts started failing. I never would have known until an overheat warning that I had an issue wuthout that display.
Also, the coolant system is very dependant on staying pressurized for a steady temp. May not see a leak puddle but if it's losing pressure... that's the 235+ temps.
Heat soak drives me nuts especially in summer. If I shut down the car at a high point like 228, the coolant at the outlet will rise at least 10-15 degrees and I hate the thought of my engine baking at 250 degrees... soo I'll babysit the shutdown until its down to 215 when I have time. May be silly but every little bit to keep it on the road.
The dash gauge will start to increase past the "1 click below center" at about 240, absurd but all gen 1s are all like that.
Fan will always stay on with ac or defrost.
217-221 is a typical operating temp but going up to 230 or down to 210 will happen. Remember that the computer is controling the temp for either efficiency(higher temp), or for performance(reducing temp). T-stat is electronically controled as well.
On year 2012 eco only(my eco year), there is "coolant temp' in the dic. This display truely saved my car from destruction when I hit 90-100k and the coolant system parts started failing. I never would have known until an overheat warning that I had an issue wuthout that display.
Also, the coolant system is very dependant on staying pressurized for a steady temp. May not see a leak puddle but if it's losing pressure... that's the 235+ temps.
Heat soak drives me nuts especially in summer. If I shut down the car at a high point like 228, the coolant at the outlet will rise at least 10-15 degrees and I hate the thought of my engine baking at 250 degrees... soo I'll babysit the shutdown until its down to 215 when I have time. May be silly but every little bit to keep it on the road.
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