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1.4L Motor Blown Twice!

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14l blown motor
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32K views 37 replies 28 participants last post by  Blasirl  
#1 ·
I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze that I purchased brand new. 1.4L Turbo, along with a trifecta tune and Injenz cold air intake system. When I bought my car it had no miles on it and now that its hit 37,000 the motor has blown for the (Second) Time! Ever since I installed the CAI and the Tune my car was now a (Modified) car. All of this was done around the 20,000 mark and ever since then I was told that Its important that I only put (93) Octane at the pump. The carwas performing extremely well until the 34,xxx mile mark when one day I was on the interstate with cruise control set to the speed limit (65mph). All of a sudden the car hesitates terrible then all my dash lights come saying service ASAP, then smoke poured out of my exhaust. I got the car towed into the dealership, where they told me that cylinder (4) had been melted along with the piston and the engine wall had been scorched. Took about a month before I finally had my car fixed from the dealership. They said they put a brand new crate motor in, however they Lied! They did a bottom half job and reused most of the old parts off the blown motor! (I know because I have been all over the cars engine bay many time times!) the dealership left me with, an oil leak and the car had been acting up. The dealer said its fine so I just drove it. Ever since I got my car back with the supposedly new motor I have been putting (93) octane in. Drove it to the 37,000 mile mark when once again on the interstate Going the Speed Limit the car repeats exactly how it acted the first time the motor blew. Had to have it towed again to the dealership, where they told me that cylinder 3 had been melted and damage to cylinder 4 as well.

My question is that do you think that the cruze being a (4) Cylinder, me putting Nothing But 93 Octane of pump gas in it, is what caused my motor to blow? The first time the motor had blown the cause if it was a vacuumed line had some how popped off on me while I was on the interstate which it sucked so much air in, causing it to run so lean that it melted the piston. I had been pulling Engine running lean, cylinder misfire codes on and before the first motor job.
 
#2 ·
The 1.4T engine in the Cruze is rated for 91/93 octane, so it's not the octane. I would contact GM about the fact that this motor was supposedly rebuilt by the dealer once already and they missed the cylinder issue.
 
#7 ·
He is lucky they didn't throw the red flags up when they found a vacuum line off and owner modified air intake.

The CAI most likely had nothing to do with it but with that visual cue and then a aftermarket programmer installed can cause warranty issues.
Just as the Diesel truck guys, Cummins singles out K&N in a bulletin IIRC.

GM could have sent a warranty rep out and made the call to repair and not replace the engine.
 
#9 ·
Not necessary the tune isn't easy to find and a aftermarket intake can't void the warranty unless they determine it was the cause of the problem and **** near impossible to do.

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#11 ·
= + 3 definitions not forth coming .

GOod luck chuck . Hope things turn around though !
 
#13 · (Edited)
I haven't been around here long but I've seen about 3-4 blown motors on here and ALL were tuned.

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Doesn't mean the tune is causing it. Hundreds of us are tuned and have the intermittent speed racer desire, but we've all ensured our tunes have the i's dotted and t's crossed in the programming. If he never took the time to datalog and get the adjustments before running the car rough, the fault is on the OP..

If you're 'melting' pistons at highway cruising, you're either running insanely lean(which I find hard to believe considering Vince continues to alter base tunes from everyones first datalog to make them close to perfect once he hits the 'send' button), or there is something you're leaving out(beating the car instead of highway cruising?).

Just saying.. lol.
 
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#17 ·
Sounds like it wasn't datalogged, and wasn't run on 93 octane from 20,000 miles until the engine blew at 34,000 miles. It might not have been datalogged either.

Buying a tune is a commitment to running premium gasoline every single tank, and datalogging the car ASAP to make sure the tune is adjusted.

OP, let us know how you make out.
 
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#18 ·
Its hard to say what really goes on here there is not enough info given.Is so called smart octane being relied on to use low octane fuel while running the tune?Sorry but i would not depend on smart octane with a tuned engine. Is the car driven hard tuned than the failure just happens to show up on the highway? Did he go back to the stock tune after the first engine problem? To have that kind of damage scan tool data would not look right on that engine most likely if it was monitored under different driveing condtions.There would have to be a lot of knock retard present i would think with piston damage like that.
 
#20 ·
I can't see the tune causing this. In my SS days, people using HP tuners would comment that Vince runs a rich a/f ratio and it could be leaned out for more power. He did that specifically to avoid lean conditions that could cause what the OP experienced.
 
#21 ·
I am not saying its 100% a tune issue either.I just dont think there is enough info on just what goes on here.And it would need one heck of a vac leak to lean out a cyl like that.The engine would not be running right at all from the get go.
 
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#22 ·
I would lean towards a mechanical valve / cam type issue causeing this.Or they did indeeed do a shoe maker job slapping the engine together and something was over looked.But the way GM pays on warranty you never know what could have went on.Maybe the same head was slapped on a new short block.
 
#23 ·
If one guy should have blown his engine, it would be me ! :th_coolio:

Every monday, i do hard Lapping on a Racetrack for sessions of 20min, so thats 20min of maxed out performance, im sure that no one does that other then me with a 1.4 Autobox equiped, lol.

Is it running perfectly ? No.

Do i have big problems ? No.

Still in the Tuning / Optimizing phaze...

So if my engine didnt explode, i dont think someone doing street driving should have any troubles, other then just normal mechanical failures unrelated to your usage.
 
#24 ·
Come on your car has to be running perfectly with Vtuner tuning it !!!!!!!!!!!!! Only kidding I know mine is.I have spent a lot of time scanning it under a number of conditions. Anyway glad to hear your working it hard and its holding up just fine.
 
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#25 ·
Ya, its running fine 95% of the time, but sometimes, especialy when Lapping hard, i have a bug with my Wastegate solenoid sensor and it shuts down the boost to zero...
 
#27 ·
my cruze has the 1.4t engine and recently I started experiencing the jutter during acceleration on small hills and between certain rpm ranges (2000-3300) it has 33000 miles and it has a k&n intake and I installed E3 plugs, has ran smooth up until a few hundred miles ago when my car was filled with 87 instead of the 91 octane gas I always use, could my engine also be blown, and should swap out to the stock plugs before taking to the dealer?
 
#31 ·
I'm so freakin' glad santa didn't send me the tune for xmas

I'm on number one at 83k, did NOT get the tune at 60k like Santa promised, or I'd thought it was the tune! see previous response! 12/1.4 eco/auto.

ah ****, ctrl-c/ctrl-v = I'M SO FREAKIN' GLAD SANTA DIDN'T SEND ME THE TUNE FOR XMAS...2012, 1.4 eco auto, 83k, bone stock, didn't start running 91+ fuel continuously until about 35k when I found this page. I had experimented with higher octane and while better performance and mileage, it was not financially beneficial, (fuel saved versus price of fuel). oil change q5k, I ALWAYS bitched about the computer stated mileage (maybe go 400 miles on a tank), anyhow, I am supposed to pick the car up tomorrow with a ... wait for it.... BRAND NEW MOTOR!!!! Here's the story; My Fiance reports "the car's not getting hot", to which I reply... "baby it's cold outside"... no, more like WTF did you do to the car???lol... anyhow, I checked it out, water level fine, oil fine, tranny fluid... lol. (side note, I run I-65 with traffic, 50 miles each way daily so the tranny's due to be flushed at 90k right?) back to story... that Saturday morning, we drove up to Birmingham and she was right, the car was not getting hot (heater), re-checked water reservoir, (no way to actually LOOK into the radiator to see if the thermostat opened and water circulating). Drove the car and light came on, AC shut off due to high engine temp. (Temp gauge below half way mark) again pulled over, no noticeable overheating, water level still there, pulled the dipstick and the motor did not appear terribly hot, the fans were running but... I'm going to skip over dealership ****, set appointment, cancelled, no rental car, coverage, call to gm, bad battery... WTF... so bypassing a lot, I am to have a new motor tomorrow and I am carrying in my battery... save about 3 bones!!!... thoughts?
 
#33 ·
I'm on number one at 83k, did NOT get the tune at 60k like Santa promised, or I'd thought it was the tune! see previous response! 12/1.4 eco/auto.

ah ****, ctrl-c/ctrl-v = I'M SO FREAKIN' GLAD SANTA DIDN'T SEND ME THE TUNE FOR XMAS...2012, 1.4 eco auto, 83k, bone stock, didn't start running 91+ fuel continuously until about 35k when I found this page. I had experimented with higher octane and while better performance and mileage, it was not financially beneficial, (fuel saved versus price of fuel). oil change @5k, I ALWAYS bitched about the computer stated mileage (maybe go 400 miles on a tank),

anyhow, I am supposed to pick the car up tomorrow with a ... wait for it.... BRAND NEW MOTOR!!!! Here's the story; My Fiance reports "the car's not getting hot", to which I reply... "baby it's cold outside"... no, more like WTF did you do to the car???lol... anyhow, I checked it out, water level fine, oil fine, tranny fluid... lol. (side note, I run I-65 with traffic, 50 miles each way daily so the tranny's due to be flushed at 90k right?) back to story... that Saturday morning, we drove up to Birmingham and she was right, the car was not getting hot (heater), re-checked water reservoir, (no way to actually LOOK into the radiator to see if the thermostat opened and water circulating). Drove the car and light came on, AC shut off due to high engine temp. (Temp gauge below half way mark) again pulled over, no noticeable overheating, water level still there, pulled the dipstick and the motor did not appear terribly hot, the fans were running but... I'm going to skip over dealership ****, set appointment, cancelled, no rental car, coverage, call to gm, bad battery... WTF... so bypassing a lot, I am to have a new motor tomorrow and I am carrying in my battery... save about 3 bones!!!... thoughts?
Some missing things is my thoughs.

2012 1.4T
83K miles on the clock
5K oil changes
assumed to be within the Powertrain warranty window with blown engine.

Were they saying all the issues to include blown engine were from a bad battery? Seems like the 2011-12 batteries were a hit or extreme miss at times going off of online here. Still on my original 2013 one but will bump up to a larger diesel like one when the time comes or next winter. Did you ever get the negative cable swapped out? I had some issues with my cable until it was swapped out but none that would cause an engine to fail.
 
#32 ·
1. Nice 3 year old thread revival.

2. What are you posting with a rock and a chisel? You've said the exact same thing in both posts. And I don't think the stealership batteries are too bad. I think they wanted $130. And that way they can't blame anything going wrong with your electrical system, on the battery. I have a 6/150, so it matters to me. My car gets no cheap parts. Dealership for oil changes. Just put the OEM tires back on it. Factory OEM battery, and wiper blades. No half assed junk.