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Crankshaft pulley seal leak?

8.7K views 28 replies 5 participants last post by  Ajr  
#1 ·
I was replacing my belt and water pump and noticed a lot of oil around the pulley below. This is from the crankshaft fully seal? How much of a rush should I be in to fix this.? It's not dripping on the driveway no noticeable low level and dipstick. I don't feel like taking everything apart again for a while and sucks I will have to buy new motor mount bolts again.
 

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
100% but needed my car. Already had to wait fo part ofr unexpected belt tensioner breaking.Not sure how to do it yet. How do I get it off?? I don't have impact wrench. Someone said you can do it with a screwdriver jammed. Need more research before I'm ready. If anyone knows please advise thank you
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Found a good write-up with diagrams.


They want you to buy a tool I looked it up it's almost $300 smh.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I had this talk w @JLL and others and the prevailing diy tool is impact wrench. I have to replace the seal on daughter's '14 rs (and probably my "12 eco) and plan on buying a medium strength corded impact wrench from harbor freight at about $80-90. Hope it will do the job.
I may try to muscle it off using a breaker bar and lock the pulley in place with a hand tool but will have the power tool on hand.
Did you ever get around to doing this job? What strength impact do I need? Still need to do mine was debating on having the dealer do it since I dont have any of the tools. Impact wrench. My torque wrench does go above 85. Don't have the pulley holding tool or the socket. 4 things I'd have to buy.

I called Chevy for a price and they said they couldn't give me one until they looked at and figure out what caused. That doesn't make sense to me. I'm asking you to perform a job. How much? Simple.
 
Discussion starter · #11 · (Edited)
Excellent! Planning to tackle this next weekend possibly if I get all the parts and tools by then. Did you buy the new bolt? Not suppose to reuse old one.
- What pound strength impact wrench did you get?
-How are you going to hold the pulley still for torquing? Screwdriver or special tool?
- Are you removing the motor mounts? Or trying to go around through wheel well only?

Looking forward to hearing your results and feedback!! Good luck!
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
Your half way there! I replaced my belt and tensioner a few months back and motor mount bolts. I'm wondering how hard it would be without taking the mounts out. Do you think there's enough room to be able to loosen the tensioner to get the belt off and room to torque down the pulley bolt without removing the motor mounts?

I usually use my weight and stand on the breaker bar to loosen tight lugs lol surprised the impact couldn't get em. I looked up that Bauer corded impact 300 lb. Says 1050 breakaway torque. Would think that should easily get the lugs loose. They even show pictures of taking off lug nuts. On sale for 69.99
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thank you for confirming. I thought I read that somewhere. Don't wanna blow me new seal. This kit doesn't look to hard to do..is everyone in agreement that these kits are legit good way to go?

 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I found removing the motor mounts and wheel well liner was essential. I did not use the impact wrench because I tried the 18" breaker bar first with one hand and secured the pully with a heavy screwdriver with the other hand all from above. Leverage and firm torque removed the bolt. Since I felt the torque necessary to remove the bolt, I have a good idea how tight it should be during reassembly.
I will return the impact wrench to HF, all my work on this car was by hand so far, this particular power tool will not be useful.
Be mindful of the pully orientation and watch for the internal "washer" that the pulley shaft fits into. It is free to move around and I had to position it to accept the pully shaft before it would sink down out of position. Note how close the pulley is to the timing cover before removing so you'll know if it is seating correctly during reassembly.
This is not a difficult job except for the guesswork of doing it for the first time.
In a nutshell, removing and reinstalling the bolt from above with mounts removed; and installing the new seal from the wheel well is the winning combination imho.
Dave
Awesome! Good to hear you it's going well and got it off without the impact.. You've given me more confidence to do it. Really the only thing I was worried about is holding that pulley still. I found a pic of the screwdriver method(attatched). Is this where and how you did it?
 

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Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
I took my pcv hose off today to check for the nipple. I can still see it in there.. But not sure if it it's seated properly?? Can barely see it. Does it look ok to you guys or?? It's really greasy and oily in there..Is that normal? Do I need to do the v3 kit or am I good for now?

Also check the PVC under the valve cover no hissing or air coming out. So if I have nipple and valve cover check valves working properly maybe my hose check valve has failed. I think I need to take off other end connected to turbo and blow in it. I did order a new one anyway just trying to find my rough idle issue. Every once in awhile throws a code . P0171 and p1107

Can't get the pcv hose to snap back onto the intake manifold. I can't see how I could be doing it wrong. I'm thinking some old plastic inside the connection probably snapped off that makes it clamp. I saw an o ring loose in there pushed it back up. But now won't snap back on. My new hose is coming tomorrow but I didn't want to put it on and then take it off again to do the v3.4 kit and possibly break it again.
 

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Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
I guess I discovered where my pcv issue was. The hose had a bad check valve on the turbo end. I could blow right in. The other side wouldn't snap back on either anyway. Got the new hose on. Still going to order the v3 kit ( kept the old hose to practice on) but I should be good as far as pcv issues go. Nipple there, new hose, and valve cover good. Lets see if my rough idle goes away.

I should get all my bolts and crankshaft seal delivered tonight!

Do you put oil on the crankshaft seal before you pop it in place? Did it pop in easy? My plan is to use a metal 4x4 metal plate and hammer it in flat

Do you think a 14 inch breaker bar is enough to torque down/break loose pulley bolt?

If not I need to make a 30 minute trip to harbor freight and I'll grab a 25 in.
 
Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
Hey guys. I got it off with screwdriver for jamming and a 24 inch breaker bar. Was easier then I thought. But getting it torqued down is an issue. I got it to 111 foot lbs then tried to torque the extra 60 degrees I might have got like 10 degrees. Than a peicee of metal snapped off the engine where I was prying the screw driver. Then I shoved in another spot and screw driver snapped in half. Do you think it's good enough I don't know what else to do...?
 

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Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
That's all I could do. Everything started breaking trying to do more. Broke a fin off the side of the engine where the screwdriver was jammed after going through a hole in the pully. Then snapped a big ass screwdriver on the handle. 111 foot pound plus maybe 5 or 10 degree. Think that is good enough? Hope so that's how I left it. Went for a test drive so far so good.