[Brian2929]

I’ve got my harmonic balancer in place but it will not go on all the way for the bolt to start. How do I get it all the way on?

 

[Mr_Pat]

Slide the balancer back off make sure there is no debris in or on it or the crankshaft . I'm not sure if these have a keyway like most do or not as I havent taken one of these apart myself yet.. make sure its aligned with said key way its a very tight fit so if your not going on straight it will bind up on you. wiggle around as necessary you should be able to feel where or if its binding

 

[Brian2929]

I don’t see any debris and this is the 3rd balancer I’ve tried. They all go all the way in except for approx 1/8 inch and the bolt will not reach to pull it to. The old one however will slide right in and the bolt will attach no problem.

 

[Mr_Pat]

As I said i personally havent done one of these myself yet maybe measure them see if there is a difference in length isnt there an alignment point of some form ? sorry i'm better with my hands than explaining things. I had hoped someone who had done one of these would have piped in by now

 

[Thebigzeus]

I had to wiggle mine a bit to get it back in. I lined it up just as it came off.

 

[Brian2929]

Mine will go on most of the way by wiggling it but not all the way. I’m thinking about using an install tool on it to get it on the rest of the way.

 

[Shroomie]

Mine will go on most of the way by wiggling it but not all the way. I’m thinking about using an install tool on it to get it on the rest of the way.

no need I'll show you the procedure

 

[Shroomie]

Mine will go on most of the way by wiggling it but not all the way. I’m thinking about using an install tool on it to get it on the rest of the way.

the oil pump is installed with a mark also. it tends to slide down a little bit when you remove the balancer. it should go thru the oil pump and onto the crankshaft snout.

measure the distance and then tighten 111 ft lbs plus another 60 degrees

 

[Shroomie]

m

 

[Blasirl]

I don’t see any debris and this is the 3rd balancer I’ve tried. They all go all the way in except for approx 1/8 inch and the bolt will not reach to pull it to. The old one however will slide right in and the bolt will attach no problem.

Check the keyway for burrs. Very lightly run a flat file though it to see if it snags.

 

[Brian2929]

I was able to get the harmonic balancer in finally with a little help from a bolt. Not much pressure at all when pushing it on with the bolt must have been a burr I could not see. Now everything is on and moving properly but now it sounds like my oil pump is making a grinding noise and showing a low oil pressure light. I had the oil pump changed about 1 year ago due to the same noise and the light. I was wondering if there may be something else causing the issue so I don’t have to change the oil pump again.

 

[Blasirl]

I was able to get the harmonic balancer in finally with a little help from a bolt. Not much pressure at all when pushing it on with the bolt must have been a burr I could not see. Now everything is on and moving properly but now it sounds like my oil pump is making a grinding noise and showing a low oil pressure light. I had the oil pump changed about 1 year ago due to the same noise and the light. I was wondering if there may be something else causing the issue so I don’t have to change the oil pump again.

Can you post a video of the noise?

 

[Mo Cruze]

You can use a long flat head screwdriver inserted through the slots on the pulley if you don’t have an impact wrench. I used an 18 inch breaker bar with a cheater pipe, and it came off easily. You can use the screwdriver in the same manner to torque the new bolt on as well.

What is the number one in the diagram? Are you referencing something there? I'm going to need to do this soon myself and was wondering how without an impact wrench. I see the screwdriver in the number two hole but what's the number one showing us? Thanks for the info

 

[Mo Cruze]

Are you saying all I need is a screwdriver instead of that super expensive tool? En-49979 Crankshaft Shock Mount Retainer. They want $300 for it SMH

 

[silversurferhdz]

I just looked this up in Chiltons online. Removal of the passenger wheel liner Locking the serpentine tensioner, remove belt from crank pulley. Does not mention press fit, but does mention press the new balancer into position. I'm guessing the bolt at 110 ft/lbs provides the force, vs. a true old school press fit with no bolt. The harmonic balancer can accidentally be installed 180 degrees out of sync. It looks like the harmonic balancer drives the oil pump shaft, and you have to turn the harmonic balancer to line up the engine Top Dead Center marks. Then it has a special tool for holding the balancer. Remove the Torque to yield bolt, 111 ft/lbs.. The seal installer is EN-960, but I'm guessing you could find something that works. Align the hole in the pulley with the TDC mark as shown in the picture. I think the statement below will make sense once you have the tensioner off and are reinstalling everything. The crankshaft balancer flange must fit to the hexagon of the oil pump rotor (2) and to the two-flat of the crankshaft (1). The TDC markings on crankshaft balancer and engine front cover must match. Install the crankshaft balancer carefully by pressing into position. View attachment 229322

What is the tool for holding the pulley?

 

[12ecofamilycar]

What is the tool for holding the pulley?

Hi, this is an older thread but I'll jump in. I just did the seal and I used a sturdy craftsman screwdriver but a rigid steel bar that will fit through the pulley slots will work. For loosening, put the bar through the pulley's right hand slot into an engine "crevice" and allow the other end to be braced under the engine bay side, so when you wrench the bolt off CCW the bar almost is self braced. You do have the keep the bar in place though so it doesn't slip. When reinstalling the pulley, put the bar through the left side of the pulley and allow the same bracing method under the engine bay wall. I used an 18" breaker bar and was able to torque the bolt off and back on.
The reason the pulley doesn't push in all the way at first in my case, is the internal "washer" in the same shape as the pulley flange was floating and had to be lifted up then quickly pushing the pulley flange in. Not forcefully but in a coordinated effort.
I was only able to do this job by myself because I removed both the motor mount and the wheel well liner. Bolt work from above and pulley/seal from the side. There is another thread on this subject
Hope this helps. Dave

 

[Blasirl]

Hi, this is an older thread but I'll jump in. I just did the seal and I used a sturdy craftsman screwdriver but a rigid steel bar that will fit through the pulley slots will work. For loosening, put the bar through the pulley's right hand slot into an engine "crevice" and allow the other end to be braced under the engine bay side, so when you wrench the bolt off CCW the bar almost is self braced. You do have the keep the bar in place though so it doesn't slip. When reinstalling the pulley, put the bar through the left side of the pulley and allow the same bracing method under the engine bay wall. I used an 18" breaker bar and was able to torque the bolt off and back on.
The reason the pulley doesn't push in all the way at first in my case, is the internal "washer" in the same shape as the pulley flange was floating and had to be lifted up then quickly pushing the pulley flange in. Not forcefully but in a coordinated effort.
I was only able to do this job by myself because I removed both the motor mount and the wheel well liner. Bolt work from above and pulley/seal from the side. There is another thread on this subject
Hope this helps. Dave

Ali Express sells the "tool" pretty cheap for future reference.

 

[geddinwk]

I have swapped my balancer numerous times and replaced the seal once but may do it again soon and thought I would chime in.
I did not remove the wheel liner. There is no press-fit, just a ginormous bolt.

Also note that the stock seal is a lip design that requires a slight vacuum on in the crankcase to not leak. If you have PCV issues that prevent crankcase vacuum or god-forbid introduce pressure, the front crank seal will leak. The rear seal is a standard spring-loaded seal that does not require vacuum. (would probably not be very good for the clutch).
The new seal that I got from the dealer was the same as original but the ones from O'Riellys are standard spring loaded.

Depending on what Air-filter intake you have, you may not have to remove it but might want to anyway to make things easier.

1. Set the parking brake first. This is especially needed for step 4.
2. Put a jack on the oil pan to support the engine and remove the passenger side engine mount.
3. Remove the bracket for the mount from the engine that is covering the water pump. This makes the rest of the job MUCH easier.
4. Release the tensioner (eTorx socket) and remove or set aside the belt. If it is a manual trans car, make sure it is in 6th gear so the engine does not rotate. An automatic will require the special crank pin tool or some other method to lock the crank.
5. Remove the Crank pulley bolt - this requires an eTorx socket and breaker bar.
6. Make note of the timing hole so you do not reinstall 180degree off. Maybe even take a picture first.
7. pulley should just slide right out.
8. The seal is a light press-in style and can be removed with flat-blade screwdriver.
9. The new seal can be tapped in with a plastic mallet or a hammer and a piece of wood to protect it from damage. To make it even easier, do the job while the engine is hot and store the new seal in the freezer. Then work quickly to intall the seal before it can warm up.
10. Put a little oil on the new seal.
11. reinstall the balancer making sure the alignment hole is in the same orientation from step 6. It will just slide on to the crank but the Hex oil pump drive will have slidden down and will require the balancer to be rocked in a circular motion to get it to slide back up.
12. Install new or re-use crank bolt. The crank bolt is huge and I would be surprised if it is actually torque to yield. Something that big would be extremely hard to stretch but use your own discretion here. I re-used mine every time.
13. re-install belt if it is still good or replace since you already have it off. You do not want a belt to fail - the engine will overheat almost immediately. Cheap insurance.
14. Reverse bracket and mount removal procedure. use jack to help with alignment.
15. Remove jack.
16. Re-install intake if removed.

This is my first write up and I may edit to add more info/socket sizes/pics

Let me know if I missed anything.

Good luck.

If you oil the new seal it will leak. It should go in dry, in a clean area with a cleaned pulley

 

[Cruze CTRL]

If you oil the new seal it will leak. It should go in dry, in a clean area with a cleaned pulley

Wow! How did you come by that info? It surely is counter-intuitive!

 

[Cruze CTRL]

Another 'Cruze only thing', Oiless crank seals!
For other cars, seals with a coil behind the seal lip should get lubed with synthetic grease, on both seal lips, just before installation (to lube & not swell right away)..

But not the Cruze as really cheap seals have no back coil tensioners on them and need to be installed bone dry!