This is a pretty common failure on turbo cars. Those Orings dry out from heat cycling and being sandwiched between the hot turbo and really hot oil.

I think I did it at least twice in 100,000 miles on my old car.

 

So it sounds like my 50k recommendation estimate would be valid. I'm about 3k miles from having to do this on my car then.

 

I just noticed tonight that I have some oily residue forming around the oil line on my Cruze. I also noticed the feed line on mine looks a bit different than the other pics that I've seen in the threads. I wonder if there's a new/redesigned part for the line?

I also wonder if there are better O-rings that could be used to replace the OEM ones. Something made with a stronger, more temperature tolerant rubber?

I'd like to find out, I wonder if anyone has an idea what size the rings are?

Edit: Also, I'm right at 55,000 miles.

 

I just noticed tonight that I have some oily residue forming around the oil line on my Cruze. I also noticed the feed line on mine looks a bit different than the other pics that I've seen in the threads. I wonder if there's a new/redesigned part for the line?

View attachment 130762

I also wonder if there are better O-rings that could be used to replace the OEM ones. Something made with a stronger, more temperature tolerant rubber?

I'd like to find out, I wonder if anyone has an idea what size the rings are?

Edit: Also, I'm right at 55,000 miles.

Looks like the same line, just a different angle. I don't know of any improved replacements.

 

Im sorry if I missed it but what seals the line at the turbo end? Are there more o rings or seals to be changed?

 

I don't believe we've had issues with the turbo end. That may not have a rubber seal.

 

For anyone curious on the exact steps, copied from my service manual;

Turbocharger Oil Feed Pipe Replacement

Removal Procedure

1. Open the bonnet.
2. Disconnect battery negative cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection .
3. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Replacement .
   
4. Remove the turbocharger oil feed pipe bolt (5).
5. Remove the turbocharger oil feed pipe hollow screw (4) and the 2 seal rings (1) and (3).
6. Remove the turbocharger oil feed pipe (2) and the rubber seal ring.

Installation Procedure

1. Clean the sealing surfaces.
   
2. Install the turbocharger oil feed pipe (2) along with a NEW rubber seal ring.
3. Install the turbocharger oil feed pipe hollow screw (4) and 2 NEW seal rings (1) and (3). Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution in the Preface section*.
4. Install the turbocharger oil feed pipe bolt (5) and tighten to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
5. Tighten the turbocharger oil feed pipe hollow screw to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
6. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Replacement .
7. Connect battery negative cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection .
8. Close the bonnet.

*Caution: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners, or fastener joint surfaces, unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems. When using fasteners that are threaded directly into plastic, use extreme care not to strip the mating plastic part(s). Use hand tools only, and do not use any kind of impact or power tools. Fastener should be hand tightened, fully seated, and not stripped.

 

Does the replacement tube come with 1 and 3 (new seal rings)?

 

I would recommend using some compressed air to clear any debris from the area before you remove the old line

 

Upgrade oil feed line comes with new bolt (4) and seal rings (1 and 3). You can see GM # on the bag

 

Looks like it doesn't make sense to replace just the o-rings. I haven't even been able to find a part number for items 1 and 3 (turbo side seal rings), but if the price is anywhere close to that of just the o-rings, it doesn't make sense to pay for those as well when the entire line including a new bolt would be just a couple of bucks more.

That said, if those are copper seals just like they are on brake calipers, they might be reusable. I don't suppose there's a GM procedure just for replacing the rubber o-rings is there?

 

I asked to have my entire oil feed pipe replaced.....turns out the dealer techs decided to replace only the orings saying the pipe was working properly. So that being said im assuming there is a process for replacing only the orings. This summer I plan to return and this time demand the entire pipe be replaced.... I want the new protective heat shield.

 

Wow, something my Cruze has not done yet??

I guess I have even more to look forward to.

 

Im assuming feed tube inspection would be part of the procedure. Wasnt there an issue where if techs found line to be clogged to just replace whole line though. I agree with XR, just replace with new line and seals.

 

I think if you have a clogged feed line, you have a far greater issue to deal with than an oil leak. If your oil is oxidizing and leaving deposits, you need to either drastically reduce your drain interval or drastically improve your oil quality.

I think I'm going to be recommending that owners replace the entire feed line.

 

Since it appears the only change to the line is the heat wrap......why not just heat wrap it and move on......available at any good speed shop or tuner shop.

Rob

I might add, after seeing the photo of the red hot turbo housing posted up by Trifecta, that the line is suffering radiant heat from the external source....hence the coking and why Chevy deemed heat wrapping a proper update.......not a oil breakdown from engine/turbo heat.
If that was the case, wrapping the line would make the problem worse.

 

Many turbocharged vehicles made in the past 10 years have suffered from turbo oil starvation due to a variety of factors. Feed line deposit is not the only one. Heat wrapping the feed line may resolve one potential source of starvation. Time will tell if/where other sources exist. I won't be one of the people to find out. I will, however, be ordering the new line simply for the convenience of it.

 

Watch "2012 chevy cruze oil leak" on YouTube
2012 chevy cruze oil leak: http://youtu.be/IN8H37K3YIQ

This is a short video of my line leaking. Did not notice any leaks until it did this. Car has just over 70,000 miles.

 

By chance did you try to tighten up the hold down. Im wondering if vibration is starting to loosen things up. On my last oil change I noticed a seep of oil around corner of oil pan. I found one bolt to be a little looser than the others.

I liked your post but in an unlikeing way.

 

The bolts were tight when i removed the stock line. I was expecting something to be cracked. Put the new line on and have not had any more leaks so far

 

Just replaced mine, 2012 ECO 155K. Line would leak mainly when engine was cold.

Here is the difference in the original line and the revised part;

 

It looks like the o-ring end now contains a backup o-ring for a total of two sealing surfaces rather than just one. It also appears that they changed the mounting flange on that side.

Original picture poster, please correct me if I'm wrong, but the new part has a lot more going on than just some heat wrap!

 

What size is the heat shield bolt?

 

I just checked my 2013, and it has the heat wrap. Seeing the routing of the line so close to the turbo, I can see why they started putting heat wrap on it.

 

Couldn't this line be replaced under powertrain warranty?

 

Yes, but would you rather spend $30 and half an hour at your convenience or spend $0 and 2 hours plus travel time and gas at the dealer's convenience?

 

As soon as my Cruze hits 50k, I'm ordering one of those lines and replacing it. There are some things I'd rather do myself than have my dealer fix.

 

My next oil change will be around 45,000 miles and I will have the replacement with the heat wrapped line done at that time. Definitely worth the cost and could make your turbo last a long time.

 

Residual Odor

Hey Everyone,

I very recently just had to have this repair done to my 2013 Cruze (~27,000 miles). I had the heat on and all of a sudden it smelled like pure car exhaust in the cabin of the car. Next thing I know the car started beeping and error message popped up "Oil Pressure Too Low - Stop Engine." I got towed to the dealership and fortunately this was covered under the warranty. Everything's fine now, but still when I turn on the heater the air that comes out smells AWFUL. I am wondering what, if anything, I can do about this? The smell is way too strong to ignore.

 

Hey Everyone,

I very recently just had to have this repair done to my 2013 Cruze (~27,000 miles). I had the heat on and all of a sudden it smelled like pure car exhaust in the cabin of the car. Next thing I know the car started beeping and error message popped up "Oil Pressure Too Low - Stop Engine." I got towed to the dealership and fortunately this was covered under the warranty. Everything's fine now, but still when I turn on the heater the air that comes out smells AWFUL. I am wondering what, if anything, I can do about this? The smell is way too strong to ignore.

Replace the cabin air filter.

 

Torque specs for anyone who will be replacing this line before I get a tutorial up:

turbocharger oil feed pipe bolt: 10 Nm (89 lb in)
turbocharger oil feed pipe hollow screw: 30 Nm (22 lb ft)

 

Tutorial posted here:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...m/129-engine-transmission-tutorials/118210-how-replace-turbo-oil-feed-line.html

 

I had my 2012 cruze in andy mohr Chevrolet plainfield, indiana today for turbo feed line and was told it was not covered under warranty, the part that really pisses me off is I told them the problem and showed it to service write up guy Nolan and all I wanted to know was it warranty or not he said he thought it was they take it back and tell me I owe 58$ because its not warranty unreal I don't know why it was not a warranty item I went to parts dept and bought the hose for 36.00 and come and 10 minutes later it was on sure beat the 200.00 they wanted

 

I had this done my last oil change and I checked out the old one and ran a wire through it and it is was clean with no sludge. Good job Amsoil. Car still doesn't burn or go through a drop of oil between oil changes which so far have been once a year and around 7500 - 9000 miles. Now I wish I could say the same thing about the cooling system. If it wasn't for the cooling system on the car this car would be fricken awesome and get an A+ but since the chronic water pump issue I have to give it a C. It just blows my mind that they could have such a chronic problem on such a major system of the engine.