How to Bypass the Intake Resonator
This is a very simple procedure, but several people have requested a write-up showing what needs to be done step by step, so here it is.
This article explains how to bypass the intake resonator and misc plumbing on the Chevy Cruze. Once this modification has been made, the factory airbox will pull air directly from the fender/bumper well area. The purpose is to improve throttle response, increase performance, and hear the turbo and BOV (blow-off valve). Keep in mind, the BOV will only be heard when you accelerate and let off the gas, such as when to shift with the manual transmission.
The factory intake system pulls air from behind the upper front grill (above the Chevy bowtie), wraps around the radiator, around the bumper, into the bumper/fender well, into a resonator box (for the purpose of silencing engine and turbo noise), then up through the bumper/well and into the airbox. The opening for the air duct can be seen through an opening in the front panel with the hood open:
![Image]()
This opening is directly behind the upper grill, which at least on the Cruze Eco is completely sealed off:
![Image]()
My understanding is that the air is pulled from through the hole seen in the first image (hot air from the engine bay), or through openings above the radiator support (also hot air from the engine bay):
![Image]()
In any case, this is all getting bypassed. First step is to loosen the ring clamp on the intake hose. You'll need a flathead screwdriver, like so. Once its loose enough, it should slide right off:
![Image]()
Next, you'll be disconnecting the MAF sensor connector. In this picture, you'll see a red plastic piece. That's the lock that prevents the connector from being removed accidentally.
![Image]()
The lock slides back easily as is seen in the next picture. Once you slide this back, push down on the black tab (surrounded by the lock plastic) and pull the connector out.
![Image]()
Next, disconnect the hose that the red arrow points to. This might take a few seconds, so take your time and don't break something. Keep wiggling it around while pulling it out and it will eventually loosen up and slide out. In blue is the first airbox mounting point.
![Image]()
In the following photo, the second mounting point is shown:
![Image]()
Once you have the intake hose, the MAF connector, and the black tube disconnected, you can simply lift the airbox upward, and it will pull out of the mounts. Once done, you'll see an intake duct that goes down into the resonator box. This is the duct we'll be removing:
![Image]()
Before you remove the duct, stuff a towel down that hole or something of the sort. It will prevent you from dropping the fasteners that you'll need to be removing down there. To remove the duct, we first need to remove the fasteners holding it down. If you look closely, you'll see a section of the fastener with a tab:
![Image]()
You can insert a flathead screwdriver under that tab and twist it to lift the fastener:
![Image]()
Work your way around the edges of the fastener with the screwdriver until you can grab it with your fingers and pull it up out of the anchor. You don't need to pull it completely out, just about this far:
![Image]()
Next, use the screwdriver to do the same with the anchor:
![Image]()
At this point, you're ready to remove the duct. Fit your fingers securely underneath it and pull upward with even pressure. This will take a bit of force, so use both hands and give it a good pull from different locations:
![Image]()
This is what you'll see once you've pulled the duct out; the resonator box. Most likely, there will be a rubber seal still on the resonator box:
![Image]()
Slide the rubber seal off. It should be greased so it will come off easily. It looks like this:
![Image]()
We remove this so that it won't get dirty or dry rot, or get lost somehow. Fit it inside the intake duct you just removed so you don't lose it:
![Image]()
In reverse order, put the anchors back into their original holes, and push down the fasteners. These will stay locked in place so you don't lose them should you decide to put the duct back in:
![Image]()
At this point, you're almost done. Put the airbox back in its place and line up the mounts:
![Image]()
![Image]()
Push down firmly but slowly, and the filter should pop back into its mounting points. Reconnect the MAF sensor connector and push the red lock back in. Put the black hose back in (see picture 7), wiggling it through until it is held inside securely. This might take a bit of coercing.
Reattach the intake hose and tighten the clamp back down. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE CLAMP. If you over-tighten it, you will risk cracking the airbox. Tighten it just enough to where the hose is securely attached to the airbox.
You'll have effectively bypassed the resonator and intake tubing by removing this intake duct. Store the duct somewhere safe in case you wish to install it again at a later date. Go out for a spin and enjoy the improved throttle response, performance, and the now audible turbo/BOV sounds.
If your fan is on full blast when you start the car again, simply turn it back off, disconnect the battery ground, wait 1 minute, then connect it again.
This is a very simple procedure, but several people have requested a write-up showing what needs to be done step by step, so here it is.
This article explains how to bypass the intake resonator and misc plumbing on the Chevy Cruze. Once this modification has been made, the factory airbox will pull air directly from the fender/bumper well area. The purpose is to improve throttle response, increase performance, and hear the turbo and BOV (blow-off valve). Keep in mind, the BOV will only be heard when you accelerate and let off the gas, such as when to shift with the manual transmission.
The factory intake system pulls air from behind the upper front grill (above the Chevy bowtie), wraps around the radiator, around the bumper, into the bumper/fender well, into a resonator box (for the purpose of silencing engine and turbo noise), then up through the bumper/well and into the airbox. The opening for the air duct can be seen through an opening in the front panel with the hood open:
This opening is directly behind the upper grill, which at least on the Cruze Eco is completely sealed off:
My understanding is that the air is pulled from through the hole seen in the first image (hot air from the engine bay), or through openings above the radiator support (also hot air from the engine bay):
In any case, this is all getting bypassed. First step is to loosen the ring clamp on the intake hose. You'll need a flathead screwdriver, like so. Once its loose enough, it should slide right off:
Next, you'll be disconnecting the MAF sensor connector. In this picture, you'll see a red plastic piece. That's the lock that prevents the connector from being removed accidentally.
The lock slides back easily as is seen in the next picture. Once you slide this back, push down on the black tab (surrounded by the lock plastic) and pull the connector out.
Next, disconnect the hose that the red arrow points to. This might take a few seconds, so take your time and don't break something. Keep wiggling it around while pulling it out and it will eventually loosen up and slide out. In blue is the first airbox mounting point.
In the following photo, the second mounting point is shown:
Once you have the intake hose, the MAF connector, and the black tube disconnected, you can simply lift the airbox upward, and it will pull out of the mounts. Once done, you'll see an intake duct that goes down into the resonator box. This is the duct we'll be removing:
Before you remove the duct, stuff a towel down that hole or something of the sort. It will prevent you from dropping the fasteners that you'll need to be removing down there. To remove the duct, we first need to remove the fasteners holding it down. If you look closely, you'll see a section of the fastener with a tab:
You can insert a flathead screwdriver under that tab and twist it to lift the fastener:
Work your way around the edges of the fastener with the screwdriver until you can grab it with your fingers and pull it up out of the anchor. You don't need to pull it completely out, just about this far:
Next, use the screwdriver to do the same with the anchor:
At this point, you're ready to remove the duct. Fit your fingers securely underneath it and pull upward with even pressure. This will take a bit of force, so use both hands and give it a good pull from different locations:
This is what you'll see once you've pulled the duct out; the resonator box. Most likely, there will be a rubber seal still on the resonator box:
Slide the rubber seal off. It should be greased so it will come off easily. It looks like this:
We remove this so that it won't get dirty or dry rot, or get lost somehow. Fit it inside the intake duct you just removed so you don't lose it:
In reverse order, put the anchors back into their original holes, and push down the fasteners. These will stay locked in place so you don't lose them should you decide to put the duct back in:
At this point, you're almost done. Put the airbox back in its place and line up the mounts:
Push down firmly but slowly, and the filter should pop back into its mounting points. Reconnect the MAF sensor connector and push the red lock back in. Put the black hose back in (see picture 7), wiggling it through until it is held inside securely. This might take a bit of coercing.
Reattach the intake hose and tighten the clamp back down. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE CLAMP. If you over-tighten it, you will risk cracking the airbox. Tighten it just enough to where the hose is securely attached to the airbox.
You'll have effectively bypassed the resonator and intake tubing by removing this intake duct. Store the duct somewhere safe in case you wish to install it again at a later date. Go out for a spin and enjoy the improved throttle response, performance, and the now audible turbo/BOV sounds.
If your fan is on full blast when you start the car again, simply turn it back off, disconnect the battery ground, wait 1 minute, then connect it again.
does this work for the auto trannys too. and i really haven't been under the hood of my car since i bought except to install the HIDs but i just noticed a loud clicking sound while the engine is on does anyone know what it could be or is just normal sry to veer off topic here just worried.
