Ha, back to using Quaker State oil again like I have been for the last 60 some years since they added that dexos label to it. Ultimate Durability Full Synthetic Oil.

Or maybe because its four bucks cheaper for a five quart bottle than Mobile One. Quaker State is the first oil producing company in the USA, started back in 1858 and have driven several vehicles well over 200K miles without problems.

But you sure have a wide choice as long as its dexos approved, can find a lot of motor oils that are at:

dexos1 Brands | GM dexos™ Licensing Program

Only if you want to maintain your warranty.

Only one person I trust in changing my oil, me. Well two of my son's, I trained them well. I know the filter has been changed, know what oil is poured in there and the correct amount, no everything is torqued properly, and don't spill a drop. Oil cap is tight and dipstick fully inserted or else your check engine lamp will come on.

 

Also, what is the best oil change interval for the Cruze? 3,000 or 5,000 miles? My last oil change was actually at a Quaker State, just a few weeks ago in my old car. I am thinking about going to an all synthetic oil, maybe even a blend.

 

If you are using a synthetic/semi synthetic, I would say let it go to @ 5000. That way you can change oil and rotate tires at same time. At least that is what I do. Typically I buy my oil from the local auto parts store however, We have a dealer on this forum and he can set you up with Amsoil which is a really good oil synthetic. I would say look @ 5K for your changes with a good Dexos oil.

 

Driving a Cruze, right? Have to abide by that oil remaining indicator, could go as low as 0% plus 600 miles, but being a bit more conservative, 20% oil remaining was enough for me. Or at least once per year, and have to use a dexos approved oil. All this is in your owners manual. But only if you want to maintain your warranty.


If you have the 1.4L Turbo, better use a full synthetic oil or that turbo will be toast.

 

First, use a dexos1 or equivalent oil. If using the AC Delco (dealer) or other semi-synthetic blend, don't go over 6,000 miles between oil changes. If using a full synthetic you can run the OLM safely down to 20%.

 

Are all dexos1 oil's synthetic or the semi-synthetics? Any dexos1 conventional oils?

 

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...oline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ASLQT-EA

Best oil there is IMO.

 

All dexos1 oils are at least semi-synthetic.

 

Thanks, I am just a noob dealing with dexos1 for the first time. Seems like there is just so many things to be aware of.

 

You must try our search box, powered by Google. 803 results for the word Dexos, and 11,900 results typing in Oil Change. 10 pages of CRUZE Oil change threads alone!

 

In 2003 I bought a 1998 Acura with 54,000 miles and did my own oil changes with Amsoil synthetic every 5,000 miles. Over the years, as my driving decreased, I switched to changing the oil once a year or about 7,500 miles (as recommended in the owner’s manual) simply because it was more convenient. Twelve years and 117,000 miles later (for a total of 171,000 miles) when I traded in the car, it did not use/lose oil and the engine was still strong. The oil never looked super dirty nor have a burnt smell. The last three years of ownership I switched to a Valvoline quick change place, still using full synthetic. Now that I have an oil life monitor system on my Cruze I’ll keep an eye on the percentage remaining vs. the once-a-year schedule. It will be interesting to see what the reading is in one year.
I've always been suspicious of those quick oil change places but the one I go to has a good reputation and so far they seem to be o.k. Besides, I really don't feel like doing my own oil changes anymore!

 

I'm not into doing the oil changes myself anymore. I'll just leave it to the professionals. I do hope the quick lubes know to use dexos1 when it's required. I've never actually used full synthetic in the past due to the higher costs. It will be an adjustment with having the Cruze now but if I can get away with longer intervals between oil changes it might make the change livable.

 

Valvoline says Synpower meets the dexos1 specs in 5w20 and 5w30 (like your Cruze takes).
http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/synpower.pdf
From the Valvoline oil change website:
[FONT=&quot]"Type of oil needed depends upon the make and model of your vehicle and the manufacturer’s recommendation. Valvoline Instant Oil Change service centers always consult manufacturer recommendations when providing you with choices and recommendations for the type of oil to be used in your car."[/FONT]

 

I am to lazy these days to change my own, other things I would rather do. I have it done by my dealer while the car is under the free maintenance plan. Then I go to Fleet Farm and have Mobile 1 put in. I use mobile 1 in everything I own from snow blower to lawn motor to Saturn Sky with turbo.

The Sky uses fully synthetic Mobile 1 and is what it was filled with from the factory. Mobile 1 is actually on the top of the oil fill cap as the recommended oil. Conventional oil is supposed coke up and plug the turbo oil lines on my Sky figure it has to be good for the Cruze also

Oh and for you purists who want to tell me I should use 30 weight non detergent oil on my mower, I really don't want to hear it. The mower is 7 years old with no issues, same with the snow blower. Try taking a bottle of conventional oil and putting it in the freezer, then pouring it out. It acts about the same as syrup. Synthetic oil does not turn into syrup. The snow starts easier during the winter and I have used Mobile 1 in it for 10 years. I also have a 4 stroke weed eater that I have been using Mobile 1 in for 10 plus years with no issues.

 

Looking at Walmart prices, full synthetic 2 dexos motor oil runs about 20 bucks for a five quart bottle, or abut four bucks a quart, but if you purchase the same exact oil by the quart, runs around $6.50.

Conventional namebrand oils run around 14-15 bucks in the five quart bottle or about $2.80 a quart where a quart can run in the $3.50-$4.00 range. So if you buy full synthetic in a five quart bottle, just about the same price in buying conventional oil by the quart.

Ha, get bored enough in a dental or medical waiting room that I have to sit in a dealers waiting room as well, plus all the GM dealers around here want an extra 40 bucks for dexos, if they are even using dexos. Even with 20% oil remaining, seem to hit that 8,000-9,500 mile mark, so in this case dexos is even cheaper than conventional, typically 5,000 miles is the limit, quite black by then.

Regarding which oil is best, they all say they are, but go by the API rating and now, API-SN is the best that has to meet strict SAE ratings. Been sticking with OEM filters.

 

Valvoline Synpower 5w30, AC Delco or Wix filter, at 5,000 mi. intervals. 73,000 miles now, zero oil consumption or leaks and nary a thing done to the engine except preventative maintenance. While a good synthetic blend is adequate, full synthetic will best insure the longevity of the engine. Conventional is a no-no in our turbo engines.

Here's some elaboration on my two cents' worth on fluid maintenance for the 1.4T: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-gen1-1-4l-turbo/166186-some-thoughts-1-4t-oil.html

 

I always change my own oil.

Three reasons:
1. I don't trust any of the fast change places, I've had several bad experiences!
2. I only use full synthetic oil. To get that at the local Valvoline last I looked was like $80. I can do it at home for less than $30.
3. It only takes 15 minutes or less, the Cruze is silly stupid easy to change the oil on.

Also I always use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, IMO its the best you can buy off the shelf, second only to AMSOIL. I do think AMSOIL is better but I'm not interested in 15K OCI's even if the oil can do it. I have done oil analysis on my car twice and determined that the oil life monitor is pretty much right on spot so I just go by it, usually change it at around 7K each time.

 

Fully synthetic oil will last 7500 to 10000 miles easy. The filters are another story. Fram are by far the worse...Wix are decent the design on the Cruze is different than a conventional filter as it is just a cartridge. Not sure if there is a by-pass internal to the engine.

I know this...I run Mobile 1 which is a mid-grade synthetic (there are better Amsoil, Royal Purple ) but I know that I can go 8000 miles with out a problem. How do I know this? Collect a sample and send it to a lab...it cost $20 (Blackstone) and you can see not only how much lubrication properties are left in the oil but also wear metals from the engine.

For those of you changing your synthetic oil every 3 or 5K miles...I have some ocean front property for you in Arizona!

 

Not all "full synthetic" oils will last that long. I've seen the oil analysis reports already, and some of them barely clear 8,000 miles. Do not exceed OEM intervals on ANY oil aside from AMSOIL Signature Series, or an oil that guarantees and recommends going longer than OEM drain intervals. This is a turbocharged engine that is particularly hard on oil, and most "full synthetic" labeled products are just purified petroleum that wouldn't be labeled "full synthetic" in Germany, which has consumer protection laws against advertising.

Blackstone will need you to spend the extra $10 to get TBN testing if you're going to use it to determine remaining life of the oil. Furthermore, Blackstone doesn't tell you a myriad of important factors such as Oxidation, fuel dilution (be sure to research this one a bit, since I'm aware they have a field for it), volatility, or thermo-oxidation. Oil analysis is limited in scope and should be acknowledged as such.

 

In a nutshell, all about following the recommendations in your owners manual with either the benefit or consequence of maintaining your power train warranty.

Like to stick with OEM filters, less arguments this way, GM is the only manufacturer that came up with dexos, others specify API grades, S for gas, C for diesel with a second letter as far back as F, latest today is N, like SN.


Each according to the SAE the further up the alphabet, the better the engine oil. Current toy says to use SM or better, but you can buy SM in conventional, blends, or full synthetic oils. In determining oil changing intervals, can vary between severe or normal driving. Every 3,000 miles up to around 7,500 miles.

Now you would think a full synthetic grade SN oil would last longer then the cheapest private brand conventional oil with an SM rating, but still 7,500 maximum. Confusing? Yes and No. Still like using the best, and if it says 7,500 miles maximum or one year, still go ahead and change it at 7,500.

 

Spend the extra $10 dollars and get the full analysis then...or just run Mobile 1 and change 7500 to 8000 miles. You will be fine. If you disagree...post some data.

I have reviewed countless studies on this topic, worked for over 20 years in mission critical application with internal combusting engines, and have an engineering degree.

I am getting tired of Internet "experts" on these forums

 

I don't disagree with any of the statements made in this post.

Alternately, you can spend an extra $10 and order an analysis kit with Polaris Labs, and get oxidation, nitration, fuel dilution via gas chromatography, TBN, and a prepaid return shipping label. The president of Blackstone once got tired of arguing with me on NASIOC, and made the mistake of assuming I knew nothing about oil analysis. The reason I recommend against Blackstone is the same reason he backed off with his tail between his legs.

I and a few other members of this forum maintain a repository of oil analysis report from the Cruze in the 1.4T sub-section of Powertrain. Feel free to review the reports that have been posted so far. http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-gen1-1-4l-turbo/79866-1-4t-used-oil-analysis-thread.html

I didn't come here to tout my credentials to raise my credibility, nor should you have to. Please keep the topic technical and the sarcasm comical, and we'll have a productive and constructive conversation.

I have been running this forum (with the help of a great volunteer staff) as well as our Facebook group of 3500 members and have seen countless turbo failures on these engines. Every time a turbo failure is reported, I ask what oil they were using. 90% of the time, that oil is either the dexos1 oil from the GM dealer, or Mobil 1. In this specific application, which is what we should be talking about, ASTM D6335 results are of high importance. Mobil 1 Extended Performance came in at 28.2mg of deposits, with a maximum allowed by API SN of 30mg. That is barely passing API SN specifications. ASTM D6335/TEOST 33C results are important because they effectively simulate high temperature deposit formation in turbochargers (and to some extent, feed and return lines). When the cost difference between one oil and another is minimal in comparison to a turbocharger replacement, it is worth acknowledging that some oils do their jobs better than others.

 

*gets popcorn*

 

What is your take on that 0w oil like 0w30? If I remember I think the bottle said you can use it in place of your regular 5w30?

 

0W-30 will run just fine in this vehicle and is even recommended as an option in exceptionally cold climates. That being said, I would advise that you run the smallest multigrade viscosity gap that you can for your given climate. a 0W-30 will flow better in cold conditions than a 5W-30, but will have a higher volatility and, as a consequence of the additional VI improvers and/or pour point depressants needed to achieve that cold performance found in most mainstream oil brands, will have a weaker shear stability. I would comfortably use a 5W-30 oil down to ~-20F before thinking about switching to a 0W-30. A 10W-30 will be fine down to ~0F.

 

Says only for climates that get to -29°c

 

The Cruze is hard on oil? Compared to what exactly? Maybe the new one - there are many DI turbo engines far harder on oil with gasoline dilution.

My 7500 mi oil analysis came back with the recommendation to run it for another few thousand longer.

 

Compared to N/A engines and other port injected engines of the past. Average running temps in this car exceed 230F thanks to an unusually hot thermostat. In the last two years, I've interpreted an analysis report almost every week from various engines, and those include twin turbo Nissan VGs, N/A VQ35s, a variety of Honda engines, Ford turbo DI engines and N/A engines, and a multitude of GM V6 and V8 engines, and of all of those analysis reports, the Cruze 1.4L Turbo is among the hardest I've seen on oil.

Fuel dilution is something I sincerely hope thew new 1.4L in the 2nd gen doesn't suffer from.