I'm pretty sure new bolts have to be bought too, if it doesn't already come with them.

 

If i can recall thats to hold the water return line in place. I had no issue without the tool.

 

I believe your correct. The book makes it looks like it holds the outside of the connection while you turn the inside. I don't know what tools are required to get on that, but I'm assuming it un-threads from the block.

I haven't done this, but Markj2222 has done it several times, and so have others on the forum. I think the special tool is to keep from twisting the coolant line as it's being removed.

 

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-gen1-1-4l-turbo/187482-replacing-factory-turbo-have-couple-questions-post2860290.html#post2860290

Read over this and let me know if you have any questions. I had to remove and install twice in a 24 hour period. That nightmare is burned into my mind, so I can help with just about anything you will run into.

 

I tried viewing your spreadsheet, but was unable.

 

Wow. Great read. Thank you a lot. What about the coolant and oil lines? Did you replace those too, while in there? PCV valve?

 

Just to ask the obvious question: Is your car over 5 years from the date of first sale, over 100K miles or a salvage title? If not, let Chevy fix it.

 

THe turbo warranty is even longer than that..7 years emmisions I think

 

Thank you. Sometimes people overlook the obvious, so I appreciate you asking. It's a 2011.

 

I'll call Chevrolet dealership tomorrow to ensure it's not covered still. It has 65k miles on it.

 

http://s430.photobucket.com/user/ShakopeeErds/media/Turbo.jpg.html

Since I can no longer hot link. Try that. There are parts in that list that I ended up not really needing. I can try to go through it tomorrow and cleaning it up.

 

Thanks a lot. Did you have any trouble removing coolant line without special tool? What happens if it twists too? Potential to break?

 

its covered, the Federal emmisions warranty is like 7 years /70000

 

I just called them and they said it is under powertrain warranty and it ended at five years.

 

The bolts to hold on exhaust manifold are sold individually for $4 a piece at chevy. Is there a better deal anywhere?

 

There is absolutely zero reason to buy that special tool. I was able to get the coolant line off without any troubles.

If you have a decent dealership they will match online prices. Go in with prices from GMPARTSDIRECT.com and see what they can do. If they don't and you have patients I would order the part from gmpartsdirect. Their shipping is slow and rather expensive, but you will save money by going through them.

 

I believe I read somewhere that I need to replace bolts for turbocharger. I'm thinking nuts and studs. Is that correct? Do these, one or both need to be replaced when replacing turbocharger?

 

There are studs that are coming out of the cylinder head and have brass nuts holding the manifold on to the head. Those brass nuts need to be replaced. They are a torque-to-yield nut and should not be reused. Also it is really cheap insurance to not having them fail.

 

Tomorrow morning is the big day. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thank you for all the help.

 

Did you not remove catalytic converter?

 

I removed cat...got everything removed. I thought chevy dealership would be open today but they aren't. I guess I will wait on buying the feed and return lines. I will get them on Monday and reassemble.

 

If I replace where this tore, I'll have to by the whole pcv hose. It's $70. Would you guys do that, or cut the rubber at tear and reuse?

 

This is part that would need replaced.

 

It looks like there is enough of the boot there that if you cut it just behind where it cracked you'd still have a good seal.

 

For 42.79 off Rockauto I'd probably replace it. A lot less headache latter.

 

When taking down catalytic converter, one stud broke. I guess I'll just replace it with a bolt. Can you believe GM doesn't sell the stud? They told me at dealership, I'd have to buy $500 cat converter. What would happen if stud broke while dealership was replacing turbocharger? Would they charge customer for cat converter, or just replace stud with bolt?

 

Theres a few video's that I seen that deal with this flange, and one guy oil cooler gasket replacement I think was the search term used a bolt.

A shop would also use a bolt. I guess you could even use a standard tread bolt and nut, but I'd go to the hardware store and get a metric one. The next person to have to remove it will appreciate at least the fastener heads being the same size.

I'd consider using some antiseize on the nuts as well. Guessing factory nuts and bolts are coated, a $0.99 bolt and nut from the local hardware store may rust fairly fast as that area is somewhat exposed to road grime.

I think the gasket for that connection is also at rockauto. I'd use a new gasket to prevent leaks.

 

Sorry for all of the questions...I've never done anything like this. How do I use the same nut for the coolant lines? Does this come off?