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SOLVED - Intermittent stalling, crank/no start

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6.8K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Lazer  
#1 · (Edited)
We've had a 2012 LTZ with 1.4 turbo for about 2 years and it has approximately 105k miles. It's been reliable until recently. The past few weeks it will typically run about 20 minutes, then stall. When attempting to restart, sometimes it misfires violently and sometimes just cranks smoothly and doesn't fire at all. This stalling happens whether your driving it or it's just idling in the garage.

I have hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it's 58 psi when starting and high 40s to 50s when running. When it stalls or fails to start the fuel pressure is still good.

There are no active/pending codes when it stalls or when it cranks without firing. Considering the misfiring, I replaced the crankshaft position sensor. There were historic codes for P0122, P0222, P0223, P0506 which point to a bad throttle body so I took a chance and replaced that. Neither of those made a difference.

Sometimes, there's not a CEL either after it stalls. But today the CEL was on and it would crank and crank with no start. I just happened to be sitting in the car going through the various screens of the scanner and noticed right when the CEL cleared. Sure enough, I hit the start button and it fired right up. So whatever condition there is, it happens to clear on it's own at random intervals after stalling.

I have scanned it dozens of times over the past weeks with no active codes except today I got a P1682 for just a short duration so I don't know if that's relevant or a fluke. That code points to a problem with the ignition circuit I believe.

Previous repairs included replacing the intake manifold and valve cover in the past month when it was blowing oil out the crankshaft seal and replacing the ground cable immediately after we bought it because the dash displays would power cycle and the stabilty control would attempt to yank the steering wheel out of your hands when the electrical loads fluctuated.

I am at a loss for what causing the random stalling, misfiring and refusal to start.
 
#2 ·
The random and intermittent nature makes me think it’s electrical. Easy things to check would be electrical connections. I would start in the areas of the previous repairs. Maybe something didn’t get securely plugged back in. I don’t know offhand if there are any grounds in those areas but check around for them too.
 
#3 ·
The random and intermittent nature makes me think it’s electrical.
I agree.

I am at a loss for what causing the random stalling, misfiring and refusal to start.
I just have to comment before I start. You sir are no stranger to car repair, you posted the best run down I've read in ages. (y) Thank you for helping us help you.

Taking all of what you posted into consideration, this is what I would do.

First, have the car battery load tested. I have seen many times when the battery in a Cruze gets weak it will cause all kinds of random issues. I have literally had people refuse to check it because they think the old gold standard of "the car cranks, so the battery is good". That logic is 100% incorrect. Before having it checked, run the high beams for 1 minute. This will remove the battery surface charge and prevent a false reading.

Second, clean and inspect all three connectors to the ECM. Look at every pin and female plug. Look for black spots or corrosion. Use electrical contact cleaner on everything, even if they all look good.

Do these and you still have problems, we'll forge ahead.
 
#4 ·
SOLVED (hopefully)

Here's the recap on the repairs taking up the whole Memorial Day weekend in 106F heat index Florida weather:

Based on my previous automotive (non-Cruze) experience, I thought the stalling was most likely ignition/electrical-related, as it would usually just turn off as quickly and sharply as if you turned off the ignition. There were a few times it misfired violently when attempting to restart but it wasn't struggling and dieing as if it was starved for fuel.

1. Replaced the crankshaft position sensor, as that is a fairly cheap part and not to difficult to access from underneath. That had no effect.

2. Pulled every fuse and relay. Checked for corrosion and arcing. Swapped relays. Applied pressure and wiggled relays and fuses while running. Cleaned every underhood connector with electrical contact cleaner (including 3 big ECM connectors) and blew them out with air compressor). No effect.

3. Replaced the throttle body. I didn't think this was likely but sometimes throttle bodies will provide feedback for idle control and other engine management functions. I had those historic trouble codes P0122, P0222, P0223, P0506 so decided to replace it. It didn't stop the stalling, but it did start more crisply and idle smoother.

3. Replaced the evap purge valve. Again, I didn't think it was emissions-related, but it's a cheap part and posts said it failed frequently. The car has always idled roughly and this helped it idle more smoothly but didn't resolve the stalling.

4. In between all these steps, I spent countless hours logging run data on the scanner, sitting there waiting for it to stall and hopefully catch a trouble code, wiggling every connection, reading countless posts and watching videos.

5. SOLUTION- Replaced the ignition coil pack. I didn't think this was the cause but as I read more posts here, elsewhere on the web and a lot of videos, the clues pointed to this. Very strange since there were only a few times out of the dozens of stalls that it misfired and I logged the data and there were no misfire codes. It usually just turned off cleanly.

6. If I would've spent days reading posts and watching videos before starting this project, I probably would've went right to replacing the coil pack. The overall consensus after canvassing the whole internet seems to be the coil pack is the most common cause when you have sudden stalling (as if you were just turning off the ignition).

At least Advance Auto Parts had 20% off all online orders this weekend.
 
#5 ·
Thank you for letting us know how you (hopefully) fixed it. It helps us all learn from each other.
I have found that misfires don’t always get captured. I think it has to misfire a certain number of times in a short time span to set the code.
 
#8 ·
Okay, so i had this issue a few years ago where my cruze started to auto kill.. no one could figure it out. I brought it to a very trusted mechanic who thought it may be my fuse box..
long story short.. reseat your relays.. it should stop stalling and throwing codes
 
#10 ·
Okay, so i had this issue a few years ago where my cruze started to auto kill.. no one could figure it out. I brought it to a very trusted mechanic who thought it may be my fuse box..
long story short.. reseat your relays.. it should stop stalling and throwing codes
It's usually a good place to start, but I had already checked every fuse, swapped around the relays and wiggled every fuse and relay while the car was running. I did note that almost every fuse and relay could be pushed in another mm or 2 to fully seat them. I don't know if that's how they are originally assembled or what.
 
#18 ·
I find that in many cases, swapping out the Mass Airflow Sensor, takes care of "rough idle," when all vacuum leaks, purge vales, fuel pressure is sufficient , it's really all that can cause "rough idle" especially when it runs great with the throttle engaged.