Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
41 - 60 of 598 Posts
My throttle body was essentially clean when it failed @ 40K. It's just a dumb packaging strategy. I have no idea why it's all packaged that way, especially when you can order injectors and throttle bodies and purge valves individually.

At least the parts are cheap-ish, I guess. Had to replace a throttle body on a Toyota, and it was $800 new; $200 used. But said car was 10 yrs old at the time, not 40K into its life.
 
Nipple is there but along with a lot of other crud. Not sure how to go about cleaning that out. Maybe seafoam it through that vacuum line.
No need to try and clean it. It will come right back. That is very typical and normal. Mine looks the same, and has since it was new. Have 76k miles on it now and never had an issue with it being that way.
 
I was surprised how dirty it is since it was only about 9 months ago I had it all replaced under warranty. 63k miles I think it was. Curious if I should run anything thru it anyways. Just fuel additives probably. But have heard running through brake booster vacuum line with MMO or Seafoam and several other it clears everything out well. I feel I will wait till I'm over 100k before I start doing anything like that though if what's in there is normal. My explorer with 260k on it may get a cleaning of those sorts. Last tank on that baby was 27.5 mpg.
 
I was surprised how dirty it is since it was only about 9 months ago I had it all replaced under warranty. 63k miles I think it was. Curious if I should run anything thru it anyways. Just fuel additives probably. But have heard running through brake booster vacuum line with MMO or Seafoam and several other it clears everything out well. I feel I will wait till I'm over 100k before I start doing anything like that though if what's in there is normal. My explorer with 260k on it may get a cleaning of those sorts. Last tank on that baby was 27.5 mpg.
It is what I call blow by from the PCV system. Does not mean the intake itself looks that way. I usually do an intake valve cleaning every 25-30k miles with CRC intake valve cleaner, and run Lucas fuel treatment in a tank of fuel every other tank or so. Have done this with all my vehicles for the last several years, and never had any upper cylinder, intake, or fuel injections issues. May all just be smoke and mirrors, but I at least feel as if it helps.
 
Thank you for the great post XtremeRevolution!

My 2011 Cruze is missing the check valve in the intake manifold. :( I went to buy the one you suggested on Amazon (ACDELCO 5581014 GM Intake Manifold Kit) but it shows that it isn't a fit for my 2011 Cruze LT. They suggest the more expensive ACDelco 55577314 GM Intake Manifold kit (of course it is more money).

Do you know what the difference is or which is actually right for a 2011 Cruze LT?
 
Discussion starter · #46 · (Edited)
Thank you for the great post XtremeRevolution!

My 2011 Cruze is missing the check valve in the intake manifold. :( I went to buy the one you suggested on Amazon (ACDELCO 5581014 GM Intake Manifold Kit) but it shows that it isn't a fit for my 2011 Cruze LT. They suggest the more expensive ACDelco 55577314 GM Intake Manifold kit (of course it is more money).

Do you know what the difference is or which is actually right for a 2011 Cruze LT?
It's possible that the 2011 had a different intake manifold. It appears that 55577314 is in fact the correct part number for your 2011 as that's what also shows up on RockAuto.com. 2012+ models had 55581014.

Frankly, I'd recommend just installing my PCV kit, which costs half as much and addresses the flawed design of the OE manifold, which will inevitably fail again.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-g...-2011-2016-cruze-sonic-trax-1-4l-turbo-intake-manifold-pcv-check-valve-fix.html
 
Any guess on how far the car can travel with this fault? I'm about a week away from having to drive 1,000 miles. Vehicle is out of powertrain warranty, so going to go the DIY route. Time isn't on my side for me to wait around on parts to come in, so since the car thinks it's running too lean is it possible to go that distance?
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Any guess on how far the car can travel with this fault? I'm about a week away from having to drive 1,000 miles. Vehicle is out of powertrain warranty, so going to go the DIY route. Time isn't on my side for me to wait around on parts to come in, so since the car thinks it's running too lean is it possible to go that distance?
It's possible, but you'll be burning oil the whole time. I have a solution. Pull the intake manifold, and use the screw and nylon washer and plug up the hole where the check valve used to be, as instructed on page 1. That will at least address your oil consumption and your vacuum leak. Then, you can install the rest of the kit when you get back. This will have a negligible effect on the car in the short term.

Either order the kit now and I can have it to you by Wednesday or Thursday, or go out and buy the screw and washer yourself at the local hardware store.
 
I took my 2014 with 61000 miles into the dealership because my check engine light and it was reading p0171. They said it was the purge valve and it wasn't covered under warranty. I know it's my pcv valve because I did all of your test. Can you give me any information on how to handle this situation?
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
I took my 2014 with 61000 miles into the dealership because my check engine light and it was reading p0171. They said it was the purge valve and it wasn't covered under warranty. I know it's my pcv valve because I did all of your test. Can you give me any information on how to handle this situation?
Go back in and complain about oil consumption. Tell them you put in half a quart in the last 1000 miles. Tell them to reference PIP5197C. Assuming your intake manifold check valve is indeed gone, they will diagnose it as failed and will replace the whole thing.
 
It looks like I'm going to have to deal with this same issue but I have a 2012 Cruze with a 1.8liter instead of the 1.4. I assume the procedure is basically the same but is there a different kit or will this one work on the 1.8 as well?
 
It looks like I'm going to have to deal with this same issue but I have a 2012 Cruze with a 1.8liter instead of the 1.4. I assume the procedure is basically the same but is there a different kit or will this one work on the 1.8 as well?
1.8 typically doesn't have PCV issues. What are your symptoms?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
My girlfriends car. Check engine light came on. Started running rough and making noise from the valve cover area. I didn't get to read the codes yet as she took it to the dealer. They diagnosed it as the PCV issue and said the valve cover and manifold had to be replaced at a cost of $925. That is where I came into the picture. So I can't verify the codes or anything else just yet, I'm going to pick the car up tomorrow as we can't afford that right now. But if it's just replacing these parts, I can do that and save us a bunch. Thanks for your help.
 
My girlfriends car. Check engine light came on. Started running rough and making noise from the valve cover area. I didn't get to read the codes yet as she took it to the dealer. They diagnosed it as the PCV issue and said the valve cover and manifold had to be replaced at a cost of $925. That is where I came into the picture. So I can't verify the codes or anything else just yet, I'm going to pick the car up tomorrow as we can't afford that right now. But if it's just replacing these parts, I can do that and save us a bunch. Thanks for your help.
You're sure it's a LS and not a LT (LS has no badge on right of trunk)? This would be the first I've heard of on a 1.8. The PCV system is much simpler and doesn't have the same failure path the 1.4 does.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
And never mind...... The guy at the dealership said it was the 1.8 but I just punched in the VIN and it is a 1.4. Go figure huh? I don't have a lot of faith in this dealer right now.
The good news is you can do this for a lot cheaper. Just order my PCV kit and you'll save a good $150 on the intake manifold cost. Order a valve cover from one of the links around here for about $60 and you can fix it all yourself for a lot less than the dealer is charging. These are all very common failures but they're also very well documented and there are tutorials for both so you can do it yourself.

I've shipped 104 of these PCV kits and nobody has had any issues installing these in their cars with some basic tools, so I'm sure you'll be able to do it just fine.

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk
 
It's possible, but you'll be burning oil the whole time. I have a solution. Pull the intake manifold, and use the screw and nylon washer and plug up the hole where the check valve used to be, as instructed on page 1. That will at least address your oil consumption and your vacuum leak. Then, you can install the rest of the kit when you get back. This will have a negligible effect on the car in the short term.

Either order the kit now and I can have it to you by Wednesday or Thursday, or go out and buy the screw and washer yourself at the local hardware store.

My oil consumption (through the PCV system) was high before the check valve went AWOL. It left at around 48,000. I noticed a "squealing" when in boost.
Anyway, I plugged the hole by first cleaning it with carb cleaner while the engine was running, Then wiping up with some q-tips, then I used plastic epoxy applied with a clean q-tip. No removal of intake and it took about 20 min.
New problem is now with no vacuum on crankcase, oil is leaking from the front main seal. The seal and dampener have been replaced with no change. Already lost one belt on the freeway from the oil being spun everywhere. Next, I am going to switch from the low friction seal to standard spring-loaded one from O'Reilly.

Moral of the story is to get it fixed sooner rather than later so it does not lead to other bad things.
 
41 - 60 of 598 Posts