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Just wanted to thank you Andre, I got your v1 kit four years ago, put 50,000 miles on the car without issues. Just recently I've noticed oil smells coming from the engine seeping into the cabin, and a puff of smoke from the tail pipe. I think it's the check valve. I have the heavy duty brass one. I took it off today and cleaned it.. I have no idea how to clean it, I just took my air compressor and blew some air through it. I checked to make sure it was functioning by blowing through it (and while i was using the compressed air on it), it worked fine.
I'm not sure if this was the issue yet, but I'm hoping :)

It wasn't bad getting the check valve out of the car to service. It took me 20 minutes including finding tools. I got lucky and had a wrench set that made it easy. I used a shorty 15mm (was a bit loose, was probably standard size) box wrench, and a long 7/8". With the shorty 15mm I was able to turn off the whole valve from the spacer- a long reach with the arm behind+under the intake. Once off the spacer, I moved the check valve (still connected to the hose) through a space in the intake manifold where I could use the 15mm and 7/8" to take it off the hose fitting. Putting it back on was the opposite process.

Thanks again for your service!
 
Just wanted to thank you Andre, I got your v1 kit four years ago, put 50,000 miles on the car without issues. Just recently I've noticed oil smells coming from the engine seeping into the cabin, and a puff of smoke from the tail pipe. I think it's the check valve. I have the heavy duty brass one. I took it off today and cleaned it.. I have no idea how to clean it, I just took my air compressor and blew some air through it. I checked to make sure it was functioning by blowing through it (and while i was using the compressed air on it), it worked fine.
I'm not sure if this was the issue yet, but I'm hoping :)

It wasn't bad getting the check valve out of the car to service. It took me 20 minutes including finding tools. I got lucky and had a wrench set that made it easy. I used a shorty 15mm (was a bit loose, was probably standard size) box wrench, and a long 7/8". With the shorty 15mm I was able to turn off the whole valve from the spacer- a long reach with the arm behind+under the intake. Once off the spacer, I moved the check valve (still connected to the hose) through a space in the intake manifold where I could use the 15mm and 7/8" to take it off the hose fitting. Putting it back on was the opposite process.

Thanks again for your service!
A little brake cleaner would help too.
 
Any suggestions on P1101 P0171? Replaced valve cover with OEM, still hear a slight sucking from the PCV Hole on there. Pulling dipstick results in no suction from there.

If I remove the brake booster hose, the manifold is sucking air and car will idle rough / stall. Same thing for solenoid hose, disconnect it, it's sucking air.

Only thing I haven't done yet is remove Throttle body fully and check the bononi check valve/hose to it to make sure it's not clogged. If that has failed or is clogged, will that cause the CEL to come back after 20 minutes of driving? It always come back when I'm stopped at a light, never while driving.

Truly stumped.
 
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What brand is the replacement? Sounds like this is bad too. Shouldn’t hear anything from it.
GM Genuine from rockauto.

It's a slight hissing sound, not loud at all. Like I can barely feel it when I put my finger over the hole.

If it's a vacuum leak, not from the valve cover, then could it be from the clamp hose from the turbo? The one that connects to the intercooler. It wiggles at the intercooler connection a bit, but it's tight on the turbo part. Also since it's not idling rough, could it be at the exhaust cat gasket/connection? Also what if the smaller pipe tube from the turbo to the intake manifold is clogged?
 
Ok yeah that's normal then.

How about the corrugated hose at the back. Is it snugly seated and is the O-ring still there? Cracked anywhere along its route to the front?
It is not cracked, I replaced it 6 months ago, and I took it off and blew on one end, sucked, no cracks.

When I take it off the intake manifold with the engine running, I hear like clacking and clicking sound, not straight suction or blowing, but definite clacking / clicking. I also noticed I can now see part of the screw for the V1 kit.

Could it be that the epoxy melted off a bit and is causing it to suck air in from the back of the manifold? I will try tonight to put a dab of epoxy on there and see if that seals it up.
 
It is not cracked, I replaced it 6 months ago, and I took it off and blew on one end, sucked, no cracks.

When I take it off the intake manifold with the engine running, I hear like clacking and clicking sound, not straight suction or blowing, but definite clacking / clicking. I also noticed I can now see part of the screw for the V1 kit.

Could it be that the epoxy melted off a bit and is causing it to suck air in from the back of the manifold? I will try tonight to put a dab of epoxy on there and see if that seals it up.
Is the clacking the purge valve right by it? You can unplug it and see if the noise goes away (itll throw a code). I’ve seen them cause vacuum leak codes too but usually not the P1101.
 
So in the last couple of days my 2012 1.4T with 84k miles that has started randomly stalling out. Most of the time it was stopped at a light, once was coasting down a hill, and twice I’ve had a shuddering loss of power/RPM for several seconds that went away when I was on the accelerator. I have no check engine light and the only code is P0506.

is there any chance my stalling issue is PCV related even without the codes others mention? I also have a very slow leak around my oil filler cap. I have a new cap that requires me to take the valve cover off to replace but I haven’t done that yet. Will check the regulator diapraghm when I do.
 
So in the last couple of days my 2012 1.4T with 84k miles that has started randomly stalling out. Most of the time it was stopped at a light, once was coasting down a hill, and twice I’ve had a shuddering loss of power/RPM for several seconds that went away when I was on the accelerator. I have no check engine light and the only code is P0506.

is there any chance my stalling issue is PCV related even without the codes others mention? I also have a very slow leak around my oil filler cap. I have a new cap that requires me to take the valve cover off to replace but I haven’t done that yet. Will check the regulator diapraghm when I do.
is one of the tabs broken off the oil cap? Can you hear it sucking air from there or the disc on the valve cover? Either might cause enough of a vacuum leak to trigger that idle control code though that’s definitely not a common code we see.
 
is one of the tabs broken off the oil cap? Can you hear it sucking air from there or the disc on the valve cover? Either might cause enough of a vacuum leak to trigger that idle control code though that’s definitely not a common code we see.
It’s leaking from where the oil filler tube goes through the valve cover and not at the filler cap itself.
 
Recently had the valve cover replaced. I was having other bigger things fixed, so they threw that in, or else I would have done it myself.

They didnt seal the slits on the left of the face of he manifold and oil is of course leaking from those 2 areas.

Do I need to remove the valve cover to properly seal the problem areas or can I shoot sealant under the valve cover gasket?
 
Recently had the valve cover replaced. I was having other bigger things fixed, so they threw that in, or else I would have done it myself.

They didnt seal the slits on the left of the face of he manifold and oil is of course leaking from those 2 areas.

Do I need to remove the valve cover to properly seal the problem areas or can I shoot sealant under the valve cover gasket?
Yes, needs to be removed.
 
I've had to bring in my 2014 Cruze for PVC Valve issues several times. It's only at about 68k miles and has had the that **** valve replaced four times. The last time was this passed September. I was very happy when the dealership informed me that it was under warranty for the rest of the time I own the vehicle. Bought it "certified pre-owned" in 2016 with a bit under 20k miles on it, as a lease turn in. So they've changed it that often in under 50k miles.
 
I've had to bring in my 2014 Cruze for PVC Valve issues several times. It's only at about 68k miles and has had the that **** valve replaced four times. The last time was this passed September. I was very happy when the dealership informed me that it was under warranty for the rest of the time I own the vehicle. Bought it "certified pre-owned" in 2016 with a bit under 20k miles on it, as a lease turn in. So they've changed it that often in under 50k miles.
They're fixing the symptom, not the cause of the issue.

They need to replace the intake manifold for the check valve so it will stop blowing valve covers and creating other oil leaks.
 
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