I took my 2014 with 61000 miles into the dealership because my check engine light and it was reading p0171. They said it was the purge valve and it wasn't covered under warranty. I know it's my pcv valve because I did all of your test. Can you give me any information on how to handle this situation?

 

Go back in and complain about oil consumption. Tell them you put in half a quart in the last 1000 miles. Tell them to reference PIP5197C. Assuming your intake manifold check valve is indeed gone, they will diagnose it as failed and will replace the whole thing.

 

It looks like I'm going to have to deal with this same issue but I have a 2012 Cruze with a 1.8liter instead of the 1.4. I assume the procedure is basically the same but is there a different kit or will this one work on the 1.8 as well?

 

1.8 typically doesn't have PCV issues. What are your symptoms?

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My girlfriends car. Check engine light came on. Started running rough and making noise from the valve cover area. I didn't get to read the codes yet as she took it to the dealer. They diagnosed it as the PCV issue and said the valve cover and manifold had to be replaced at a cost of $925. That is where I came into the picture. So I can't verify the codes or anything else just yet, I'm going to pick the car up tomorrow as we can't afford that right now. But if it's just replacing these parts, I can do that and save us a bunch. Thanks for your help.

 

You're sure it's a LS and not a LT (LS has no badge on right of trunk)? This would be the first I've heard of on a 1.8. The PCV system is much simpler and doesn't have the same failure path the 1.4 does.

 

And never mind...... The guy at the dealership said it was the 1.8 but I just punched in the VIN and it is a 1.4. Go figure huh? I don't have a lot of faith in this dealer right now.

 

The good news is you can do this for a lot cheaper. Just order my PCV kit and you'll save a good $150 on the intake manifold cost. Order a valve cover from one of the links around here for about $60 and you can fix it all yourself for a lot less than the dealer is charging. These are all very common failures but they're also very well documented and there are tutorials for both so you can do it yourself.

I've shipped 104 of these PCV kits and nobody has had any issues installing these in their cars with some basic tools, so I'm sure you'll be able to do it just fine.

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I am not replacing seals because they are bad (unless you count bad design) My engine literally shoots oil out of the PCV system. New valve cover did not change this. I have since put in a catch can which helped until the nipple in the intake disappeared. Now the hole is sealed and I adapted the catch can but with no vacuum in the crankcase, the standard front main seal leaks.
I have added a vacuum source to the can but it is too soon to see if the main seal has stopped leaking. If not, I will replace it with a spring loaded seal like every other engine uses.

 

I still don't understand. What part of your design shoots oil out of the PCV system and how is that different from anyone else's? How much oil consumption do you actually have? Are you sure you don't have a cracked piston?

I still don't understand why you can't just solve the problem of having no vacuum in the crank case by installing my rather simple fix. http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-g...-2011-2016-cruze-sonic-trax-1-4l-turbo-intake-manifold-pcv-check-valve-fix.html

 

My LUJ engine was replaced due to a cracked piston. Both engines had high oil consumption through the PCV system. The new LUV engine does not have a cracked piston.
I have thought about putting your system on but that would suck in just as much oil as the stock one. Instead I implemented a catch can that I built.

 

This makes absolutely no sense. I go 15,000 miles between oil changes on AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 and see absolutely no change in the level on the dipstick. With my kit, I have a fully-functional PCV system that does not consume oil, not a single leak to be found around the engine, and a healthy engine overall.

What oil are you using that you're seeing such high oil consumption? That is not normal at all.

 

I am currently running Mobil 1 5w30. I tried some 15w50 to see if it helped with the crank seal and PCV. It slowed a bit but not significantly Maybe 25% If I unplug the hose going to the turbo, it will spray oil on the bottom of the hood when driven hard. It just seems like the PCV cannot handle the amount of flow that goes through it yet my simple catch can does. I really don't want the intercooler and charge pipes loaded up with oil again.

 

Have you done a compression test...? It kinda sounds like you might have a cracked piston.

 

what is the custom fitting into your valve cover?

 

Swivel return fitting for my bypass oil filter.

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XtremeRevolution, this is all massively helpful. Have 2014 Cruze LT at dealership now. July 18, 2017, at 73,166 miles, the intake manifold, pipe, and valve cover were all replaced. It had been running rough for a bit then check engine light came on, went off for about a month, then came back on. Repairs were completed at no cost under powertrain warranty. Not too long after, light came on again then went back off then came back on this month. Son dropped it off, and they called yesterday telling me it was the catalytic converter that needed to be replaced wanting $750 for it. Have you heard of this known issue causing problems with catalytic converter due to the vacuum leak and engine running rich for a while? I've owned about 100 yrs worth of cars over the years and never had a single issue with a catalytic converter. Isn't covered by my bumper to bumper 100,000 mile wraparound we'll cover everything warranty that I purchased for $1595 ;-) (last time I buy a dealership warranty). Also isn't covered by manufacturer emissions warranty which expired a few hundred miles ago at 80,000 miles per them. Am waiting for service manager to call me back after explaining the situation and that there's no way that thing failed on its own without an issue causing it and that issue was first brought to their attention at 73,166 miles. If they still say it isn't covered, I'm going to pick up the car and pay the diagnosis fee. Any reco's for me?

 

When that check valve goes bad, it is typically accompanied by oil consumption. Oil is poisonous to catalytic converters, so it is definitely possible that this was the root cause. However, a catalytic converter code may also go off if the engine is running lean or rich.

GM will cover 25% they say so got it down to a grand total of just over $600. Son is on his way to pick up the car and pay diagnostic fee. There it is. The last Chevy I will ever own. A 2014 Chevy Cruze.

To be honest, expect these kinds of things in the future with other cars. Everyone is moving toward small displacement turbocharged engines. I can't help but wonder for how long that intake manifold check valve was gone.

 

GM will cover 25% they say so got it down to a grand total of just over $600. Son is on his way to pick up the car and pay diagnostic fee. There it is. The last Chevy I will ever own. A 2014 Chevy Cruze.

 

Xtreme, yes there was oil consumption. I just figured my son was driving the car hard and not admitting it until I read the horrendous reports online and realized I'm in bed with a bunch of other Chevy owners who bought the wrong car. I figure the issue was there at under 50k and son just didn't say anything. He mentioned a knocking noise, but the check engine light wasn't on. The noise went away when they did the engine repairs for leaking vacuum replacing the valve cover and replaced the manifold and "pipe" which is where the missing return valve was per their own paperwork that I have. They cited bulletins and zero charge for warranty work for both issues. Now 3 months later they say the cat converter needs to be replaced. Imagine driving Chevy's all these years, then check engine is on, it's off, is on, is off. Am not going to get over being jerked by these clowns.

 

I realize you aren't a lovely lady Xtreme lol, but I'm of the female gender. These Chevy garages think they can jerk me around when I've done more car repairs than most of their intake folks have. I let my son take the car in last July and didn't bother to investigate because I work full time and was busy and it cost me nothing. It wasn't until yesterday when they called and said it would be $750 that I took a day off and focused on the issue. Thank God I found this forum then realized this is common for Chevy Cruze. They still won't pay, but am sure that the tens of thousands they just lost plus my open communication with everyone I know on how bad this Cruze is will hit them with $1Million in losses prior to this being said and done. You say to expect this in the future. I say I have 40 years of car ownership experience and have never seen the like.

 

The only thing I can think of is blow-by from the lower compression cylinder is causing too much flow in the crankcase and the oil separation part of the valve cover can't handle it.

 

That would be my theory. Probably a cracked piston or ringland. Otherwise, they don't have issues with oil consumption...or blowby - whatsoever.

It was common for the PCV system on Volvo 5-cylinders to be overwhelmed as they aged and began to have increased blowby as well. Oil/crankcase pressure would start pushing out seals and other weak areas.

 

New development, the oil that is collecting in the catch can has something in it that is a light tan in color. It collects at the bottom. I will try to post a pic. What could that possibly be coming from? The low friction piston coating?

 

Is that a liquid or a solid?

If liquid, that's water. If solid, it might be accumulation of oxidized oil and water. Anything exposed to oil will be filtered through the oil filter, so you won't be finding it in your catch can. Metals don't release into vapor like that.

 

Yeah, your right, I was thinking backwards. Still expected it to be darker as I have seen with a cracked head and another with a bad head gasket.
I have never had a catch can before but I assume some water is normal (we are burning Hydro-carbons), right?

Thanks again.

 

Is that clamp holding the hose on hard to get on and off? Does it just pull off with some needlenose or how do you take it off? Scared if I take it off I won't be able to get it back on I have carpal tunnel and tennis elbow. I need to check for that pink nipple in there.

 

I've had my valve cover PCV diaphragm fail on me twice over the course of the last 2 years of ownership.

Thankfully it has all been covered under the drive train warranty, but that is gone now.

 

thank you for the write up.

 

Could this be caused by driving the car after the Turbo has gone out?

 

No. This will fail regardless.

 

I had this problem with my 2014 Chevy Cruze. I took it to a dealer ship and explained what I found on this forum. They ran a diagnostics check, for which they charged me $126 and told me the parts for this issue weren't covered under my powertrain warranty. The also said they would charge me and additional $384 to fix it for me. Needless to say I was extremely unhappy. Is this really covered under the warranty and if so, how can I prove it?

 

Dealership says parts aren't warrantied

I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze with this issue. I took it to a local dealership and was told that it wasn't covered under the powertrain warranty. The car only has 67,000 miles on it. They wouldn't give me any documentation from GM showing that the parts weren't warrantied but were sure to charge me $126 for the diagnostic fee, telling me what I already knew. Is there some kind of documentation out there that shows this is warrantied under powertrain?

 

Hey Xtreme, just wanted to pass along a huge thank you for this kit, it worked flawlessly.

 

I have a 2011 with 80,000 miles, it began leaking some around the valve cover. No check engine light, no noticeable oil burning, no other symptoms. I then first replaced the valve cover with diaphram of newer design after reading on Cruzetalk. Initially, I thought it was better, not leaking. After a few days, it began leaking more out of the new valve cover/seal. I then read your articles. I looked into the intake manifold and found the slight obtrusion of the orange PCV valve. So, the PCV valve was not gone, although I don't know if that means its operating correctly. At idle, I do not have any air sucking sound, I plugged the diaphram vent, still no idle change or sound change. However, lots of vacuum at idle when opening the oil filler, abnormal I think. My question is, if there's all this vacuum at idle, what could be causing high pressure to force out oil ? I read something about a blowout disc, do you think I had already damaged that before replacing the valve cover and its now leaking from that? Leak seems worse on the driver side. Or, could it be the check valve in the turbo causing me the leaking oil at the valvecover? Lastly, I was going to buy your intake PCV kit, but the BNR spacer is no longer available. Is there another I should buy if I buy your kit?

 

It's normal to have vacuum at idle when you pull the dipstick or open the fill cap. The crankcase is under vacuum; that's normal.

There is no blowout/burst disk. That was the initial understanding but turned out to be wrong; it's a diaphragm.

What symptoms are you having that are prompting you to look for a solution?

The BNR throttle body spacer will be back in stock today or tomorrow. They just put in an order for new ones on Monday.

 

would it be a matter if i block the PCV valve cover hole with something like chewing gum?

 

No. The diaphragm is still failed.

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