Autozone you go...

 

Just remembered I had a code reader so I read and it turns out P0507 and P1101. Wasn't there a recall about the P1101? I see the high idle at times: P0507 idle at @1200 RPM. Go back to dealer to see if covered since 81 K on mileage?

 

A P0507 DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following: A vacuum leak Leaking air intake after the throttle body EGR valve leaking vacuum A faulty positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve Damaged/failed/dirty throttle body Failed EVAP system Failed IAC (idle air controller) or faulty IAC circuit

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0507
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[/FONT][h=2]What causes the P1101 code?[/h]Some of the possible causes of a P1101 trouble code include a faulty MAF sensor, faulty connectors or wiring within the MAF sensor harness, and an air leak either before or after the MAF sensor. A poor electrical connection within the MAF sensor circuit can also cause the storage of this code.
Read more at: ://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p1101-obd-ii-trouble-code-mass-airflow-sensor-out-of-self-test-range-by-cheryl-knight

[FONT=verdana, sans-serif]I would say clean the MAF and check the PCV valve for the orange nipple to start.




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... and check the PCV valve for the orange nipple to start.

... but I don't want to throw parts at the problem. Esp after reading JBlackburn replying to someone with the same issue and it being a PCV issue. ...

... At times, the idle gets rough so I am thinking maybe the PCV? Other than the CEL the car seems to run OK. I guess I will take it to the dealer when I get a chance and let them figure it out.

[h=1]2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues[/h]
[h=1]2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L PCV System Explained[/h]
This one might have something worth reading:

[h=1]P1101 Service StabiliTrak and Traction Control[/h]
I ended up changing a damaged sensor in my passenger wheel to fix my stabilitrack issue.

 

Check the air intake hose. My 2012 I had the box to throttle body hose underside had ripped somehow. Did the same thing


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I would say clean the MAF and check the PCV valve for the orange nipple to start.

Since I don't have time tonight, I will wait until tomorrow night and try cleaning the MAF and make sure all the sensors before I take it in. I knew someone here would have an idea of what's going on, thanks a lot I will give it a shot tomorrow and let everyone know.

 

Keep us posted!

 

I did as we discussed(pulled the air cleaner and cleaned the MAF and after clearing the codes, as they would say: So far so good!! No more CEL and surely seems to idle much better @800 RPM. I took it for @25 mile drive hwy and regular roads and so far no problem. We'll see how it goes, thanks for the tips about cleaning the MAF. Surely beat going to the dealer. Ya know they would have just replaced thanks again!!!!!

 

Hate to say the CEL came back on but also with it I got a Service Traction Control message that went away once I shut down the engine but CEL still lit. Don't believe it is the MAF sensor anymore. Ideas?

 

Aside from the neg battery cable, I say continue looking at the MAF for now. Could have been a leak in the sysytem you temporarily plugged or maybe temporarily made a better connection etc. It was OK for more than a day although I am not sure how much driving you did.

So for now, this is what I found:

[h=1]How to Troubleshoot a Mass Airflow Sensor[/h]

 

Aside from the neg battery cable, I say continue looking at the MAF for now. Could have been a leak in the sysytem you temporarily plugged or maybe temporarily made a better connection etc. It was OK for more than a day although I am not sure how much driving you did.

So for now, this is what I found:

How to Troubleshoot a Mass Airflow Sensor

Thanks! But as I also mentioned, I am getting the traction control error intermittently which coincidentally just started after I backed into something and ripped the hole in my rear tire last Friday. Logically, they don't seem related! but I don't want to throw parts at the problem. Esp after reading JBlackburn replying to someone with the same issue and it being a PCV issue. As well as seeing something on the web implying the same. What I should do is change the MAF from my 2014 and see if it has the same problems and clears up the 2013 issues. Then I know it is the problem rather than spending @$100 for a new one. I would do this today but we have our first snow today so probably not going out?

 

I just ruled out the MAF sensor. I had an opportunity to do so so I traded with my 2014 and the 2014 is fine but after a drive the 2013 CEL came back on. At times, the idle gets rough so I am thinking maybe the PCV? Other than the CEL the car seems to run OK. I guess I will take it to the dealer when I get a chance and let them figure it out.

 

Hey @Patman just a thought...how old is your battery in the ‘13?

If it’s the original, might be past time to replace it...

 

Thanks but just replaced it in November. I hate to say this problem is more an irritation than anything else . For the most part the car runs fine, the CEL is on and the occasional rough idle. I am not sure if the drop in MPG is due to this or the new tires?

 

Yesterday, I made an appointment at the local dealership to look at this CEL. After talking to the service adviser(I use the term loosely). He said it would take at least a day and a half to do what he termed as "heavy diagnostics" because they have so much work in front of mine. End result I said forget it. They wanted $110 for diagnosis which will be "rolled into" the repairs I know that is just to cover in case I don't have the repairs done there. 2 questions:
What was the appointment for if they can't get to it in a day to a day and a half?
Is there truly a term called: "heavy diagnostics"? Or was that a statement to make me feel what they are doing is OK and justify their work? Or because they have to use expensive equipment vs easy work they do like oil changes etc.? All in all I will live with the CEL or fix it myself when it gets warmer and I have time to do so if not go to a different dealer as I heard ? about this one.

 

$110 diagnostic fee must be standard, that’s what my Chevy dealership charged for a CEL on my diesel in November.

Declined the repair, paid the $$ and fixed it myself.

 

Seems every time I reset the CEL, I can derive on hwy no problem it only comes back on when in stop and go traffic. Really becoming bothersome to me think losing some HP from it. Need to get fixed soon!!!!

 

I bit the bullet so they say and took the car in this morning and they are saying PCV issues along with Valve cover and leaky intake manifold all said @ $1100. Hopefully this will be it and I can enjoy getting my 100,000 badge with this and no more problems and I get the lost power I have been missing! I figured the valve cover and PCV, but not the intake.

 

Got my car back and runs like a new car again!!!! It should for $1050 in repairs and new intake and PCV. LOL. So happy I took it to the dealership I went to and heard the first dealer I went to was losing mechanics and this other one was really "on the ball when it comes to repairs!!!". As I said hopefully this is it, other than that noise at 40 MPH which is truly just and irritation!!! Just waiting for some warm/dry weather to look at the brakes mainly rear drums.

 

Thats happening to mine as well. And also my compressor starts sweaking making alot of noise and i take off the oil dopstick and it stops. I have no idea what it is or why it stops everytime i pick up or take off the dipstick.