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RTV is being installed at the seam between the timing cover and the cylinder head.

Can you tell me what type of rtv i need? Also the application of the rtv is vertically to fill in the lines, correct?

Thanks for any reply in advance!!
Anyone? Please help me figure out what kind of rtv and how to apply it.

Really need some insight! Thank you so much for any help!
 

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You guys can I reuse a brand new valve cover.

I didn't have a torque wrench and I originally read it as foot pounds. So out of stupidity I hand tightened it snug tight+6 oclock.

Which now I realize is way too tight. I dont see any beads of oil around the cover gasket however it does look shiny in several locations so im assuming oil is leaking through. there is an oil spot in my garage.

I bought a torque wrench and the rtv sealant. I am going to redo it.

But my question is can I reuse the new valve cover or did I damage the rubber gasket buy over tightening the bolts and I need to buy a new one.
 

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FFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUU..... I snapped a bolt. Got some spares from the Chevy dealer on order, but haven't figured out how to get the old bolt out of the valve cover. Anyone have any idea or experience?

The part of the bolt in the engine block came out no problem, but the other half in the valve cover is a bear.

Thanks,

USA

EDIT: Nevermind. I put on my big boy panties and just tugged on the bolt head with a pair of channel locks. I was more worried about messing up the valve cover last night than anything else after the bolt snapped, but after looking at the cover today they are merely a pressure fit. Got it off in one strong tug.
 

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I checked my Haynes manual when I received it as I broke a bolt during my install with this. The correct torque for the valve cover is 71 inch pounds, not 79.
 

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What was the car CEL or issues to lead you to replace the canister purge valve?

Thanks
Hi Andrei!

Very good article! Thank you for all this information!

I was searching for a post where I could find the known defective parts for the Cruze and the millage at which we should expect them to fail. I understand this depends on a number of factors of course.

So far, I hit 50K miles and I have to change the ACDelco 214-2317 Canister Purge Valve.
I will add the PCV Valve Cover and Valve Cover Check on my list of potential issues (from your other articles).

Thank you,
Cristian[/QUOTE]
 

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Just finished the valve cover replacement in conjunction with the V2 pvc check valve kit. I wanted to post here that my valve cover was very stubborn to get off. I had to run a putty knife between the gasket and the head where ever I could get access. Even then, I had to grab the top of it on the intake side with some extra large channel locks and wrestle it back and fourth as I pulled up to get it to release. For such an accessible item, it was quite a PITA. Probably didn't help that I was tired from just finishing the intake.
 

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AWESOME write-up!!!! We used it yesterday to replace the Valve Cover on our '14 ECO, we even snapped a bolt, used one off the old cover to finish the task.
 

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For people having trouble getting the cover off, this is what I did to make it come off easy without worrying about damaging the head's top mounting surface.

  1. Loosen and pull up on all the bolts. The ones in the back too. you don't want those bolts in the aluminum head as you rotate the cover off.
  2. Insert a putty knife in several places along the front edge of the valve cover to separate the seal there. You want to be between the seal and the head. You don't want to slide it along because that can scratch the head surface.
  3. Once the front is released, the cover wont come off yet as its stuck down on 3 sides still.
  4. Insert a wide flat head screw driver on top of the putty knife -- between the knife and the valve cover seal.
  5. Important: Leave the putty knife in place.
  6. You can now provide twisting and prying torque to the screwdriver without marring the head surface. The putty knife will be what you are prying against, not the head.
  7. Remove both tools and reposition using steps 4-6 to a point near a front corner and repeat.
  8. That should separate the side seal and you can rotate the cover off from there.
  9. Make sure to clean the mating surface with a shop rag before installing the new cover to remove residula oil film and dirt. Dont spray solvants on the cam lobes.
I did not notice any damage to my seal on the old front cover after doing this.

Working out a replacement kit for the pressure diaphragm is likely not cost effective as you would have to heavily modify the cover. Then the replacement diaphragm and spring would still be half the cost of the complete cover which already has leaking seals because of the over pressure. Replacing them as a set lets you crate a fresh seal between the cover and head.
IGadget
 

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in this section of the replacement "Before installing the valve cover, you will need to clean off the old engine sealer at the two joints between the timing cover and the cylinder head, and apply a bead of sealer at those points, shown here"
My question is do you need sealer in these places mentioned? I don't have sealer, Can someone help me recommend a sealer that is needed? does the gasket connected to the valve cover be enough to seal it
 

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My question is do you need sealer in these places mentioned? I don't have sealer, Can someone help me recommend a sealer that is needed? does the gasket connected to the valve cover be enough to seal it
I used Permatex Ultra Black hi-temp RTV. The small tube is plenty, and costs less than $5 at Autozone as I recall.

Make sure you clean off the mating surface all the way around the head. Mine was pretty cruddy on the driver's end. A hard plastic scraper helps and will not scratch the soft aluminum.

HTH.

Doug

.
 

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Mine was showing oil in the plugs around 75k, but the p0171 and p1101 didn't show until about 83k. The gasket on mine looks pretty good, but definitely failure of the vacuum diaphram.
On a side note.. my oil cap has an extension (2 pieces) that makes it sit above the Ecotec cover, by probably 2.5"
 

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I'm in the middle of replacing only the valve cover gasket as they vacuum diaphragm appears to be fine. However, the new gasket came with 15 o-rings... not quite sure where they would be used. There wasn't o-rings with the oem gasket I took off obviously. I bought a FEL PRO VS 50807 R gasket "kit" . Any ideas? I don't think they would be for around the bolt holes as it looks like the o-ring would interfere with the gasket and it looks like the o-ring would make the valve cover sit higher...
2014 1.4T
 

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I'm in the middle of replacing only the valve cover gasket as they vacuum diaphragm appears to be fine. However, the new gasket came with 15 o-rings... not quite sure where they would be used. There wasn't o-rings with the oem gasket I took off obviously. I bought a FEL PRO VS 50807 R gasket "kit" . Any ideas? I don't think they would be for around the bolt holes as it looks like the o-ring would interfere with the gasket and it looks like the o-ring would make the valve cover sit higher...
2014 1.4T
Since there wasn't much difference in the price, I purchased a new valve cover (gasket included). How many bolts are on your cover, if the o-rings are the same size? Check the inside of your cover where the bolts are.
 

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Since there wasn't much difference in the price, I purchased a new valve cover (gasket included). How many bolts are on your cover, if the o-rings are the same size? Check the inside of your cover where the bolts are.
Thanks for the quick reply...
There are 15 bolts on the valve cover. No o rings stuck to the valve cover or head. They seem as if they're are not meant to be between the head and the valve cover either. I put it all back together without the o-rings. Going to let the rtv sealant set and start it up in the morning. Im sure it'll be fine lol.
 

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Hi Andrei!

Awesome article! My 2013 started leaking slowly at 78K miles and I will replace the valve cover for the first time.

Do you mind mentioning which type of sealer you used to apply a bead of sealer at those points?

Thank you and Merry Christmas!!
 
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