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Mobil 1 Extended Protection Motor Oil.

23K views 85 replies 21 participants last post by  Blue Angel  
#1 ·
Large print says guaranteed protection up to 15,000 miles.

Small print says, to maintain your vehicle warranty, go by their recommendations.

What is does not say, is if your engine does fry up, how to claim this guarantee.

But for a little more than a buck extra, thought I would try it. Maybe instead of changing my oil at 20% life remaining, may go down to 10% so I come a bit ahead with that over a buck I spent.

Does have that green dexos label on it.
 
#2 · (Edited)
In my Tiered oils list, I recommended against this:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-powertrain/41385-tiered-oils-list-understanding-synthetics.html

The reason is that it proved to have very low film strength. This is typical of Group 3 "synthetic" oils that have heavy levels of additives and detergents for extended drain intervals. The problem is that due to the need for pour point depressants and viscosity modifiers, the percentage of the actual lubricating hydrocarbons in the oil begins to fall rapidly. With your typical Group 3 synthetic, you have very roughly 75% oil and 25% additives. When you add more TBN additives for extended drains, what you end up with is an even lower percentage of oil, and the total package film strength drops and begins to shear easily.

While that alone wouldn't really concern me too greatly, the oil also has poor oxidization properties which results in waxy (sludge) deposits.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf

Note that the test was performed by an independent lab, not by AMSOIL.

You won't really hurt your engine by using it once, but for the next time you get an oil change done, there are better options out there.
 
#3 ·
Similar to DEATH COOL HaH and it comes with a green Dot .
 
#4 ·
X, what were your thoughts on Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 again?
 
#9 · (Edited)
Excellent oil for diesels. If it wasn't for the low TBN mandated for the mid/low SAPS in diesel engines with modern diesel particulate filters, I'd be recommending it at the top of my list for gasoline engine oils.

I had very good success with mobile one extended performance, I went 15000 miles between oil changes. I had an LS cobalt that I reved out to 8k with proper valvetrain and took the vehicle from 121 whp to 386whp(with a ton of other supporting mods) for 180000 hard miles and the bottom end help up just fine , the second time I changed my broken getrag the oil gap spacing and main and rod bearings were all in spec. That doesnt mean its the best but it worked great in my cobalt. Its good oil to me but Im sure theres always something better.
Mobil 1 EP has been tested more than once to be an inferior quality oil to the standard Mobil 1.

If you can believe all that propaganda on the rear of the bottle, highly recommended by, GM, Ford, Honda, and over 50% of NASCAR drivers.

Compared to Mobile 1, has a much greater temperature breakdown point. Besides 15,000 miles of guaranteed protection.

Still have the receipt, can take it back and exchange for standard Mobile 1 and get about a buck-fifty back.
It's not propaganda if I have the numbers to back it up. The big question is whether or not you have the time to learn what the numbers mean.

I'd recommend taking it back in exchange for the standard Mobil 1.

If this was 7 years ago, I'd be recommending Mobil if you insisted on a Mobil 1 product, but their formula changed and not for the better.

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#5 ·
I had very good success with mobile one extended performance, I went 15000 miles between oil changes. I had an LS cobalt that I reved out to 8k with proper valvetrain and took the vehicle from 121 whp to 386whp(with a ton of other supporting mods) for 180000 hard miles and the bottom end help up just fine , the second time I changed my broken getrag the oil gap spacing and main and rod bearings were all in spec. That doesnt mean its the best but it worked great in my cobalt. Its good oil to me but Im sure theres always something better.
 
#6 ·
If you can believe all that propaganda on the rear of the bottle, highly recommended by, GM, Ford, Honda, and over 50% of NASCAR drivers.

Compared to Mobile 1, has a much greater temperature breakdown point. Besides 15,000 miles of guaranteed protection.

Still have the receipt, can take it back and exchange for standard Mobile 1 and get about a buck-fifty back.
 
#8 · (Edited)
On this forum, you back up your statements or you keep quiet. I made no sales pitch for an AMSOIL product and my tiered oils list contains plenty of alternate recommendations. I have the numbers to back up my statements. I know for a fact that you don't.

Does your snake oil pitch admit that the formulation changed from a PAO base stock to a cheaper and weaker hydro cracked base stock in the mid to late 2000s? Do you even know the difference? Do you even know what Molybdenum and Boron is or why Magnesium Sulfonate (what Mobil 1 uses) is inferior to Calcium Sulfonate and Calcium Phenate? Do you even know what those do?

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#12 ·
See I used the wrong heading on my post, not Extended Protection, but Extended Performance, shame on me.

Is a GM approved oil under their licensing list at dexos1 Brands | GM

Mobil 1 0W-20ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos10W-20Global
Mobil 1 0W-30ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos10W-30Global
Mobil 1 5W-20ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-20Global
Mobil 1 5W-30ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global
Mobil 1 Extended Peformance 5W-20ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-20Global
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30
ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global
Mobil 1 x 1 5W-30ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global
Mobil Super 3000 Formula D1ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global
Mobil Super Synthetic 5W-30ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global

With concerns about meeting the Cruze warranty requirements. Only had one year of chemistry in college that I have forgotten the day after. So would put myself in the idiot class.

Seen some sites that want 30 bucks more for Extended Performance over just Mobil 1. That got me paranoid from buying this oil from Walmart for only a buck-fifty more. But did not see anything on that 5 quart Mobil 1 Extended Performance bottle that said anything about being made especially for Walmart or for their distributorship. So do assume, it is genuine Mobil.

But you know what they say about ass-u-me.
 
#13 ·
See I used the wrong heading on my post, not Extended Protection, but Extended Performance, shame on me.

Is a GM approved oil under their licensing list at dexos1 Brands | GM

Mobil 1 0W-20ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos10W-20Global
Mobil 1 0W-30ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos10W-30Global
Mobil 1 5W-20ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-20Global
Mobil 1 5W-30ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global
Mobil 1 Extended Peformance 5W-20ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-20Global
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30
ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global
Mobil 1 x 1 5W-30ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global
Mobil Super 3000 Formula D1ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global
Mobil Super Synthetic 5W-30ExxonMobil Oil Corporationdexos15W-30Global

With concerns about meeting the Cruze warranty requirements. Only had one year of chemistry in college that I have forgotten the day after. So would put myself in the idiot class.

Seen some sites that want 30 bucks more for Extended Performance over just Mobil 1. That got me paranoid from buying this oil from Walmart for only a buck-fifty more. But did not see anything on that 5 quart Mobil 1 Extended Performance bottle that said anything about being made especially for Walmart or for their distributorship. So do assume, it is genuine Mobil.

But you know what they say about ass-u-me.
I believe we were all referring to the same oil. I don't think Mobil 1 has an EP oil that goes by two names.

The DEXOS1 certification is pretty relaxed as far as synthetic oils and blends go. Maximum NOACK volatility can be no higher than 13%, does not require any anti-wear or extreme pressure additives, and a TBN of over 6.5 are among the tested parameters. It won't be very difficult to meet the specification.
 
#14 · (Edited)
#16 ·
While were on the topic of Mobil oils, anyone try the "advanced fuel economy oil"? I have yet to see any data this but it is nice to see a Mobile option in 0w30 variant.

Mobil 1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qt.: Automotive : Walmart.com


I did find that it is dexos1 approved (for some I know that's important)
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
I can pretty much guarantee you that they used additional VI additives and pour point depressants to get that 0W rating. As a result, the NOACK volatility will have shot up around 2%. The oil will shear more easily and will boil off more easily as well. Unless you live in a climate that regularly sees temperatures below -20 degrees F, that oil will do more harm than good.
 
#15 ·
, anyone try the "advanced fuel economy oil"?
- Yes but not in my Cruze - have used it in my GTO. Have only used Mobil 1, Mobil 1 AFE and EP variants in my GTO since the first oil change at 500 miles. It is a stock LS1 so probably very low stress on the oil compared to our Cruze turbos.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
I use Mobil 1 extended in my cruze and from my own real world driving and goin by what the oil life is on the car I'm getting 10,000 miles on an oil change by the time I'm down to 20% ....
And I'll keep doing the same thing...
Shoot before Mobil even had the extended life oil I was already using Mobil 1 5-30 in my 2000 cavalier with a 2.2 in it and changed the oil roughly every 5-6000 miles and u know what....
The 2.2 is still alive with 340,000 miles and still being daily driven


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#19 · (Edited by Moderator)
I use Mobil 1 extended in my cruze and from my own real world driving and goin by what the oil life is on the car I'm getting 10,000 miles on an oil change by the time I'm down to 20% ....
And I'll keep doing the same thing...
Shoot before Mobil even had the extended life oil I was already using Mobil 1 5-30 in my 2000 cavalier with a 2.2 in it and changed the oil roughly every 5-6000 miles and u know what....
The 2.2 is still alive with 340,000 miles and still being daily driven



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I have already stated that Mobil 1 changed their formulation from a PAO base stock to a hydrocracked base stock. If you have no clue what that means, you aren't qualified to even begin discussing the merits of oils. Since all you have is anecdotal evidence, let's keep the jabs out of the thread. I haven't posted any links, made any recommendations, or tried to sell anyone any product in this thread. Your implication that I have is uncalled for.

I have proof in testing numbers from the Petroleum Quality Institute of America. Mileage means nothing. You can go 340,000 miles on dino oil, so long as you change it every 3k miles.

March 2013 - Test Results for AP
 
#20 ·
I've tried using Mobil 1 on three different cars and all three started seeping around various engine seals after the switch. I am going to avoid synthetics in my Pontiac Vibe and Cruze Diesel since I have never needed to replace a car because of engine wear or failure.
 
#21 ·
I wouldn't recommend that. The GM oil is at minimum a synthetic blend. In addition, everyone else is doing just fine on synthetics in the Cruze Diesel and the gas versions. You can't go to a non-synthetic without willfully voiding your warranty by using an oil that is below the spec of DEXOS1 or DEXOS2.
 
#22 ·
I didn't know the Diesel oil was synthetic blend. Couldn't find it in the owners manual. I've had problems with 100% synthetic. I will of course continue to use the required GM oil. My BMW 740i requires 100% synthetic and is supposed to be designed for it. It also seeps oil but much less than the three cars designed for conventional oil. When I switched my 1998 Cadillac Concours from conventional to Mobil 1 it not only began to seep oil but also started to display oil pressure warnings at idle. The dealer diagnosed it as an internal engine seal leak and recommended changing back to a high viscosity conventional oil. This remedied the warning but the external seals continued to seep after that.
 
#23 ·
This is not a sales pitch, but AMSOIL makes oils specifically for engines like that. They are really far down the engine oils list and most people never see them or even know they exist. They are the 10W-40 and 20W-50 "Synthetic Premium Protection" motor oils. They have over 1.5x the levels of ZDDP (Zinc) for anti-wear protection as the API certification is limited to. The higher viscosity keeps older, worn-in engines from leaking and burning oil. These oils exist because the issue you described does occur.

AMSOIL SAE 10W-40 Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oil
AMSOIL SAE 20W-50 Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oil

Synthetics oils have a far higher lubricity than conventional and synthetic blend oils. They have all of the large contaminants removed, and have a more uniform molecular structure. On top of that, they typically have stronger detergent packages to prevent sludging from contaminant deposits, boil-off, and oxidization. As a result, switching to a synthetic oil will sometimes cause the engines to seep some oil because the oil will "pick up" or absorb and suspend the contaminants left behind by old oils. This is one reason why AMSOIL states that the first change to AMSOIL synthetics is always considered "severe service." This is usually limited to old engines that have been using dino oils for a long time.

That being said, I bought a 91 pickup truck back in September and recently put some AMSOIL synthetic in it. I've driven it 1000 miles and there hasn't been any oil seepage yet. The truck has 324k miles on it. My wife's 2000 Regal GSE was bought with 151k miles and I've used synthetics in it since then, also with no seepage.

Your BMW requires synthetic oil because of the high operating pressures. Those are high compression, high strung motors that make a lot of power for their displacement. They generally require a high quality oil. In addition, synthetic oil is all they use out in Europe where those engines are designed, which is why just about every new car you buy out there will recommend a 10-20k mile oil change interval. They have far higher oil quality than we do.

Your best bet really is to use a good synthetic (there are many to choose from in my tiered oils list) from day one so you don't have those gaps to seep through from the start. Anyone who has run Mobil 1's old formulation for more than a few hundred thousand miles will attest to how clean that engine is when the top end is removed. The engines run cleaner and run better if you stick to synthetics from day one.

Oh, and here it is written on the DEXOS2 bottle:
Image
 
#24 ·
Until we have empirical proof that certain oils are capable of extended drains past 7500-8500 miles, I'll stand by my recommendation of changing the oil every 7500 miles or 25% on the OLM on the 1.4T. We know the 1.4T is hard on oil, and that even a off-the-shelf dexos1 synthetic is throwing in the towel right around 7500 miles.

10,000 miles might be doable with a specific oil in specific driving conditions. Definitely get oil analysis done to make sure the oil is okay to run past 10k miles. That being said, if there really was a 15k mile oil for these engines that cost about $40-50 per change, I'd run it just to save myself the hassle of changing oil every 3-4 months.
 
#28 ·
My last oil change had 7400 miles on it and the results were very good. Wear metals finally settling down from the new engine. Just over 16K total miles now and had 5W30 Amsoil SSO in it with a WIX filter.
 
#26 ·
I love it when a plan comes together .. now if the novice member will only do a little research and read these threads before spouting out that there isn;t an option ,and they are done with the Dealer .. all of the clues are here !
 
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#27 ·
Ha, I started this thread when Mobile comes out with a motor oil with guaranteed 15,000 miles protection. Then tells you to maintain your vehicle warranty, must follow your vehicle's recommendation for oil changes.

One would think, at least me, Mobil's warranty would override the vehicle's recommendations on oil changes. But they certainly are NOT taking the liability for this issue. Big fat print on the front of the bottle, super small fine print on the back of it that contradicts their front bottle statement.

Kind of like your dealer trying to sell you a several thousand dollar 100K mile additional warranty, but when you read the fine print, no different than the 100K power train warranty that you already paid for when you purchased the vehicle.

Just more contradictions I wanted to point out, really had no intentions on starting a war on this subject.
 
#29 · (Edited)
....really had no intentions on starting a war on this subject.
You really didn't start anything. This issue pops up too often here. Some people are too stuck on a particular oil brand for whatever reason to see that there are other options out there and like to voice their opinion with lots of shouting and little facts.

In regards to the Mobil EP you mentioned, I would be surprised if anyone has tried to collect damages from Mobil/Exxon for a failed engine. If they have, their success rate of collection has to be almost zero. This is all marketing. Makes people feel good about their purchase with a little "peace of mind".
 
#31 ·
No problem with exchanging EP for the standard Mobile 1, so back to this after my own reading on added detergents. And really no advantage of an extended oil change if I can't use it. Also noticed Mobile now has maximum fuel economy, but is 0W-20 oil, manual says use 5W-30 to meet the warranty requirements.

Also see Amsoil came out with a new Signature series with up to 25,000 miles between changes. Really no objection to Amsoil, except not sold in stores here. But do see they offer the same discount to dealers as they do to individual members.

See more and more stores around here are going to the five quart bottle, but certainly taking long enough. Five bucks per quart in a five quart bottle. Closer to 7 bucks a quart in a quart bottle. I don't keep the bottles. And far easier for me to pour the old oil in a five quart bottle, then five single quart bottles. Plus I am close to being ten bucks richer.
 
#32 ·
Also noticed Mobile now has maximum fuel economy, but is 0W-20 oil, manual says use 5W-30 to meet the warranty requirements.
That's generally for car manufacturers that have redesigned their engines to run on a -20 weight oil for fuel economy (Ford, Honda, Toyota). I would never use a 20 weight in an engine that calls for 30-weight, especially one that's turbocharged.

Does it work for those manufacturers? Idk...it might gain them 0.5-1 MPG, but they're doing anything they can these days to eek MPG out of heavier and heavier cars...and still compete in a HP war between manufacturers.
 
#38 ·
Dear XR,

I am a retired chemical engineer and I did consulting work with many lubrication producers, not the least of which is Lubrizol. So yes, I know all about every one of your "knowledge challenges", even though you know for a fact that I don't.
 
#40 ·
I'm feeling deja vu from that thread on FB that Smorey started about additives not too long ago.
 
#41 ·
Very colorful chart, XR. Lots of numbers. Every oil shown has the same EXACT conclusion - "Meets the requirements of API SN,ILSAC GF-5, SAE 5W-30 engine oil." So the best plan is to buy by price. You want empirical evidence? How about several cars taken to over 200,000 miles by me using synthetic oils that met the necessary API spec and by using 10,000 mile change intervals. All bought by price. To continue our interesting exchange of web links, here is one for all forum members - http://www.pqiamerica.com/pdf/SponsorshipProgramforweb.pdf. Independent but "sponsored." Interesting. Why aren't the sponsors listed?
 
#43 ·
You buy whatever you want. If you want to talk price, I can definitely show you what pitching an AMSOIL product is really like. For example, AMSOIL OE has no Magnesium but has more Moly and Boron than Mobil 1 and costs $4.44 a quart when bought by the case at wholesale. Same base stock, similar NOACK volatility and similar TBN but with more effective Calcium based detergents. That beats wally world Mobil 1 pricing. Now THAT is a sales pitch if you needed to see one.

It's not hard to beat the API spec. You can have a NOACK volatility of 15% and beat the API spec. Doesn't mean it's a good oil.

Sponsors aren't listed for the same reason AMSOIL doesn't identify the independent lab that performs their testing. Frankly as long as the numbers are accurate (which from the oil analysis I've seen, they are), then it doesn't really concern me who funds their operations.

While I agree with Erastimus somewhat, I have to ask this question: Did any of those cars you ran over 200K have an engine designed anywhere near to what the 1.4L Cruze engine is?
The bigger question I'd be asking is, were those 200k miles run on the older PAO-based base stocks or the newer Hydrocracked base stocks? What gets me the most is people who say Mobil 1 is great because they had such good experiences in their last old car that went xxx,xxx miles. Rarely do those people want to acknowledge that the formulation changed and they are not using the same oil they did a decade ago.

Of course, your question regarding engine design is valid. Running an oil inferior to Dexos1 specs in this car would not turn out well long-term.

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#42 ·
While I agree with Erastimus somewhat, I have to ask this question: Did any of those cars you ran over 200K have an engine designed anywhere near to what the 1.4L Cruze engine is?
 
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#44 ·
Well, there's an 11 year old Mazda Protege5 in my garage with 90K miles on the clock. It's mostly city miles, so that's why it's so low. It's had M1 10W-30 in it since the factory fill was changed out at 3K miles. It gets a 10K mile OCI and it still uses no discernable oil between changes, and I'm sure it's been using some of that newer based stocks oil. It still gets 28 mpg in town and 39 mpg on the highway (it's a 4 spd auto) as it did when new. The only engine (or any issue) this car has had was the thermostat went south last August.

Would I use this oil in a 1.4L Cruze? Of course not.
 
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#46 ·
Era of the engine makes a huge difference in the types of oils you can use in the engine. My 1990 Pontiac Transport ran Penzoil for 240,000 miles. Yes it had waxy build up in the engine but that engine needed that for long life. Modern engines won't tolerate that buildup. This is why when synthetic oils that didn't leave any residue first came out they were very quickly followed by "high mileage" versions that did leave this residue.

This is one reason oil formulations change over time. The engine technology changes.
 
#45 · (Edited)
On 3/8/2013

It's a cold winter's night. You have a heated garage - forced hot air. Right after you take the fuel pump module out, your cell phone rings. It's the boss and he has a major issue to discuss. You go in the house and make a cup of coffee and put the boss on speakerphone. A half hour later, you return to drop the new module in. The hot air furnace calls for heat - VAROOM - the gasoline vapors have traveled over to the furnace, hugging the floor all the way because they are heavier than air and the flame flashed back to you and the gas tank. Pants on fire. I have issued my warning and stated my credentials. I will let it rest now - each of you who decides to do this after reading this entire thread has done so of a free will. Remember the laws of tort in the U.S. - juries almost always find for the plaintiff - firehawk618 and obermd could end up being be found culpable if a forum member gets hurt and sues those who led him/her to the injury. And I might be called to the trial as an expert witness - been there, done that.
On 8/11/2013

So that's what that is. Thought I had a gremlin type electrical problem that was denying fuel to an injector or two momentarily. Now to locate the ABS fuse and pull it. Hope that cures this annoyance. Black tape over the ABS light and a note to self to put the fuse back in for annual safety inspection..........

I have the humanoid version of ABS in reserve, so don't worry about me crashing on slippery roads - it's called pumping the brakes. Learned how to do that in 1964 from my dad. Not from the creeps that teach Drivers Ed.
The above two quotes from you demonstrate that while you may have fooled a court you are not all that interested in safety if it interferes with your preconceived notions. The ABS system in GM cars & trucks pulses the brakes roughly ten times a second. The best humans can consistently do is two or three pulses per second. Yes, you can out brake ABS if you work on it and learn to threshold brake your car, but that takes a lot of time to learn and must be relearned for every vehicle and every set of tires. One thing juries hate most is a so-called Expert Safety Witness who is demonstrably inconsistent when it comes to the safety of other people which your second post very clearly shows. In addition, disabling the ABS system is a violation of Federal law and can land you in prison.

From this thread:

Every single time one of you asks this type of question, you are going to get a snake oil pitch from an AMS Oil small time marketer. You want film strength? Add an extreme pressure material such as found in gear oils. Not good for engine lubrication needs. Here is a snake oil pitch from a better informed source. Take your pick. Oil Film Strength of Mobil 1 Compared with Royal Purple
Very colorful chart, XR. Lots of numbers. Every oil shown has the same EXACT conclusion - "Meets the requirements of API SN,ILSAC GF-5, SAE 5W-30 engine oil." So the best plan is to buy by price. You want empirical evidence? How about several cars taken to over 200,000 miles by me using synthetic oils that met the necessary API spec and by using 10,000 mile change intervals. All bought by price. To continue our interesting exchange of web links, here is one for all forum members - http://www.pqiamerica.com/pdf/SponsorshipProgramforweb.pdf. Independent but "sponsored." Interesting. Why aren't the sponsors listed?
Your first post references a question asked comparing Mobil 1 to Royal Purple. We have had members test the Mobil 1 dexos1 oil and it does appear to OK after 10,000 miles in the Cruze. Even with this I'm not sure how the FAQ entry at Exxon/Mobil's web-site compares to the Petroleum Quality Institute of America's research, which is what XtremeRevolution based his posts on.

Your second reference to PQIAmerica's Sponsorship program is a red herring. If you had spent the 30 seconds to type in The Petroleum Quality Institute of America and read their home page you would have your answer. At best this was simple laziness on your part. At worst, you were attempting to discredit an argument by only showing one side. Maybe too much time as an "expert witness" (your words - first quoted post above). I also spent more time on PQIAmerica's web site and they not only test commonly available motor oils they use the same tests for each oil and provide a test date. This level of testing rigour is required to provide unbiased reports. Combining your lack of research with your past postings and posturing I have to come down on the attempt to discredit an argument side.

I also found a 2007 (I think it was 2007 based on the context of the references to it) report by Street Commodore Magazine in Australia refuting the Exxon/Mobile's FAQ entry. I also know that engine oils are formulated for each market and that the formulations change over time so that report may no longer be valid. This is why PQI America's test date is so important. The Exxon/Mobile FAQ entry has no date, which invalidates any conclusions that can be derived from that entry. No date means we have no reference point as to which formulations were being compared. I also found 2013 Motor Oil Comparison Test Results, which meets all the criteria for a valid test except one - we don't know who did the testing. We know AMSOil paid for this test so of course their conclusions will be weighted towards AMSOil but even in their conclusions the report lists the assumptions made. Given this and the assumptions in the conclusion I trust this report for the actual testing but not necessarily the conclusions (annual cost of competing products) derived from it.

To Erastimus, your demonstrated disregard for the safety of other people (second post above) combined with your claim to have been an "expert witness" (first post above) and your obvious lack of research before posting in this thread has completely ruined your reputation with me. Other members will need to come to their own opinions on this topic.

To all - I know next to nothing about motor oils other than what GM (current), Toyota (current), Dodge (previous), and Mitsubishi (previous) say is/was required for the cars I maintain, so I did indeed do the research before I posted. What I found is that opinions on oil frequently falls into the "lies, more lies, and statistics" category but that if you do the research you can pierce this veil and get some real answers. Oil company web sites frequently fall into the "lies, more lies, and statistics" category. I also confirmed my suspicion that you must have current research and that it must be done on oils available in your country/market because the oil companies use different formulations in different markets and also over time. This makes sense because cars and operating environment are highly variable across markets and as engine technology changes the oils must change as well.
 
#48 ·
...In addition, disabling a Federally mandated motor vehicle safety system is a violation of Federal law and can land you in prison.
Off topic, but there is not a federal mandate in the US for anti-lock brakes systems. There has been in Europe for quite some time but not here. Heck, there may be a mandate for ABS on motorcycles before there is one for cars.
 
#47 · (Edited)
Yep, I just picked up a 5 Qt. jug of M1 10W-30 High Mileage oil for the P5's next oil change. We'll see if it does anything to the Silver Streak.