[Lagunero]

Since the clamps are made of metal you don't need to worry about wrapping them. The reason the hose is wrapped is because it's so to close to the engine and they wrap it so the rubber doesn't touch the engine and melt.

 

[Thebigzeus]

Did you put that on after the hose was on? If not, was there enough room to bunch it up to the side? Why didn't you put just a bit more, maybe an inch or so to cover the clamps as well? How is it holding up so far?

I also think I saw your answer somewhere else too.

Installed all as one, I bunched it up to tighten the clamps on each side. Couldn’t do any more as it is thick and wouldn’t bunch up more. Checked it a few days ago, dry as a bone.

 

[Blasirl]

Since the clamps are made of metal you don't need to worry about wrapping them. The reason the hose is wrapped is because it's so to close to the engine and they wrap it so the rubber doesn't touch the engine and melt.

That is exactly why I asked why he did not cover them. The clamps are metal and easily will transfer the engine heat to the clamps and then to the hose increasing the rate of deteriorization of the hose, especially where the slots of the clamp bite into the hose.

 

[Blasirl]

Did you put that on after the hose was on? If not, was there enough room to bunch it up to the side? Why didn't you put just a bit more, maybe an inch or so to cover the clamps as well? How is it holding up so far?

I also think I saw your answer somewhere else too.

And here it is: Thread 'Turbo charger coolant lines guide?'

 

[Thebigzeus]

That is exactly why I asked why he did not cover them. The clamps are metal and easily will transfer the engine heat to the clamps and then to the hose increasing the rate of deteriorization of the hose, especially where the slots of the clamp bite into the hose.

Interesting theory, the stock hose though has a metal shield around the whole rubber part though, so that would possibly disprove it? I’m not opposed to wrapping them in dryer vent stuff.

 

[Lagunero]

That is exactly why I asked why he did not cover them. The clamps are metal and easily will transfer the engine heat to the clamps and then to the hose increasing the rate of deteriorization of the hose, especially where the slots of the clamp bite into the hose.

you are so right but the clamps won't get as hot as the engine block also remember the original hose had a metal pressure clamp so don't worry it will be ok. Very important to bleed the radiator cause most likely the cooling system caught air and your radiator fan will be on beast mode. I just fix mine a minute ago. The best method for "me" is...take off the reservoir cap, set your phone timer for 20 minutes turn the engine on, remember no antifreeze reservoir cap. Give it a little time and you will see bubbling antifreeze(it's the air coming out, DON'T PANIC) let it do that for around 20 minutes(antifreeze coming out the reservoir) you will see that once the thermostat opens the reservoir will go back to its normal level then just add more antifreeze and you,ll be set. Good luck!

 

[Lagunero]

you are so right but the clamps won't get as hot as the engine block also remember the original hose had a metal pressure clamp so don't worry it will be ok. Very important to bleed the radiator cause most likely the cooling system caught air and your radiator fan will be on beast mode. I just fix mine a minute ago. The best method for "me" is...take off the reservoir cap, set your phone timer for 20 minutes turn the engine on, remember no antifreeze reservoir cap. Give it a little time and you will see bubbling antifreeze(it's the air coming out, DON'T PANIC) let it do that for around 20 minutes(antifreeze coming out the reservoir) you will see that once the thermostat opens the reservoir will go back to its normal level then just add more antifreeze and you,ll be set. Good luck!

Forgot to mention...try to have the car RPM between 2,500 and 3,000 revolutions. I put a couple of small stones on the gas peddle.

 

[thebac]

Appreciate the replies and offer of heat wrap. Found some at Oreilly's while I was buying the hose and clamps. Got it done in about an hour today. Found that the previous owner had had the oil feed line redone, and the mech hadn't replaced the hold down bolt for the coolant line. On to the next thing on the list, CPASV seals.

 

[Blasirl]

I would suggest you use the bleed valve to purge the air from the system. You may have to "burp" the system two to three times. And remember, technically as long as coolant level is above the hose inlet at the bottom of the surge tank, when cold, it is considered 'full' . Just keep the coolant level 1/2"-1" above the lower tank hose. Check it first thing in the morning. The mark (molded arrow in picture) on the tank is the maximum level when hot, not cold, so don't overfill as you will get coolant smells in the vehicle. If you are curious as to the amount of expansion that occurs, look at the level before you start the car and then again about 1/2 hour into a drive.

 

[12ecofamilycar]

Hi all, Just posting an additional success using the "replace rubber hose section only" method to repair a leaking turbo return coolant line. Thanks for posting and saving folks $$$!
5/16 id heater hose- Napa
2 hose clamps- Napa
heat shield- O'reilly
I followed same steps posted earlier in this thread. Pics show 136000 miles of use on old hose and bunched up heat shield before install. Easy fix

 

[12ecofamilycar]

Follow-up
If you use the same hose clamps that I used
( photo), be sure to re-tighten after a couple of weeks. I thought I had them secured and sealing but noticed increased coolant temp range cycling after approx 1k miles. Sure enough the clamps had no tension due to hose compression and were leaking under pressure from the turbo end of the hose. Constant pressure clamps are best for this type of connection.
CT rocks

 

[Blake2251]

I cut the metal part on the hose to take out the hose
And put a new piece of hose without taking the metal tube out
Cost me $4 for a 5"hose and 2 clamps

What did u use to cut the crimped part with

 

[Thebigzeus]

What did u use to cut the crimped part with

Dremel with a cut off wheel or wire cutters if you got big ones and are careful

 

[jhiggzz]

What did u use to cut the crimped part with

(Don't unbolt the hose from the block you may damage/disturb the seal in the turbo fit and cause a leak their *)

I used a 4 1/2 inch grinder 😳. If that's all you got then be careful with it , you only have to go as far thru as the rubber hose, then use a flat screw driver to spread the gap/cut you made in the crimp. Then grab the hose with pliers and twist the hose off. Go to far and you will hit the pipe.

Like Thebigzeus said , a Dremel is the best way to go . I was to lazy to walk to my basement to get it , but after using the 4 1/2 inch I wished I did because it is tight space and the grinder want's to run away up the hood of the car lol.

 

[jhiggzz]

that was what I did, crimp clamps on the pipe side and silicone hose clamp on the other due to one day the hose may have to be disconnected, hose is a 5/16 (10mm) inside diameter silicone high temp coolant hose(not waste gate hose). Don't use fuel injection or oil line, it will get brittle and you'll find black stuff in the coolant reservoir over time. I Shielded it with silver High temp hose rap.

 

[Thebigzeus]

View attachment 291663
that was what I did, crimp clamps on the pipe side and silicone hose clamp on the other due to one day the hose may have to be disconnected, hose is a 5/16 (10mm) inside diameter silicone high temp coolant hose(not waste gate hose). Don't use fuel injection or oil line, it will get brittle and you'll find black stuff in the coolant reservoir over time. I Shielded it with silver High temp hose rap.

Looks good and tight! As an update, mine is still bone dry. I had the turbo off a few months ago to do the oil cooler and was thinking of replacing it with an OEM part, but was like nah, my repair is better.

 

[jhiggzz]

Thanks😁. This was my wife's friends car.was done in October 2020, no leaks as of today. Still got to do it to mine. And I agree I like my clamps and hose quality better than stock.

 

[Thebigzeus]

View attachment 286887

View attachment 286888

Year update, still bone dry.

 

[Willy7166]

View attachment 286887

View attachment 286888

Thanks for the pics. Did the fix this morning in an hour and less that $25. Finally found the dreaded slow drip leak and hopefully this will do it for now!!

 

[Warlock2015]

Hi all, I have a quick question ?. I have searched the forums but I could not find any info on this !! Is it possible to replace the turbochargers coolant return pipe with out taking the whole turbo out i.e. Headers... Or can it be done with just removing the cartridge!!,... Any help would great as mine seems to be leaking from where the metal sleeve joins the rubber hose.??.. It seems to be a very expensive exercise for a 30 dollar part, if i have to pull the whole turbo out .. for a coolant hose, which will always need replacing eventually.. It is a real bad design ..

TIA

I know a lot about these cars I have replaced a whole engine in my turbo and everything to actually replace this line you can do it from underneath the car without removing the turbo but you need a long wrench or at least that medium size wrench to get up there it takes a little bit to turn though but they're also a pain in the butt now if you want to loosen up the turbo a little bit you can but you got to remember there's two cooling lines got to remove the bottom one before you can get to the top one do not get an unbranded one they tend to leak within 3 months after installation make sure you get it out your brand from a retail store and make sure you get the right one that fits but make sure you push it all the way onto the nipple completely I put two clamps on mine to be safe after I fix this problem and never leaked again but beware when they do leak they leave antifreeze spots on your oil filter housing pull up the hose and you will see it you won't see it while the vehicle is running it only squirts out when it is driving down the road are cheap fixed but they are a pain in the butt on 1.4