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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Well called dealer to make appointment this morning and it's going to be a few weeks to get my car in.....He said the special warranty for the battery cable replacement didn't apply because I have a rebuilt title.... Can someone please confirm this?
Also if it doesn't what do I need to change just the cable from negative post to radiator support? Or also the small voltage sensing wire?
 
Well that rebuilt title business explaines why the recalls weren't performed......Chevy couln't find the car (or its owner).

Ok....for the record, in your case or anyone else with a rebuilt title.....any recall still applies but GM (and all other manufacturers) cancel the warranty.

OP, just purchass the cable from your dealer.....off with the old, on with the new....it is a relatively short run all performed under the hood.....15 minutes on a bad day.

I recommend you do this before you take the car in for the recalls.

Rob
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I'm going to swing by autozone and buy a cable, don't want another junky gm cable to give me the same issues, I've already changed to positive cable because it was too soft feeling, so now I'll change this one as well
 
I think I'd pick up the new GM cable first and give it a try. Autozone may not have the new design yet.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
OK so I'm replacing cable and upgrading the battery sensor wire..... Could any of these problems be related to the battery sensor itself or the wire alone even though I'm reading voltage inside?
 
OK so I'm replacing cable and upgrading the battery sensor wire..... Could any of these problems be related to the battery sensor itself or the wire alone even though I'm reading voltage inside?
The schematic shows the small wire is connected to the Body Control Module. It's not clear to me if it's just for sensing or if that's the power return for the BCM. But since the BCM is the central brain of the car - yeah, I'd say that has a lot to do with it. If the BCM isn't happy, nobody is going to be happy. :grin:
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
OK so here's an update.. I changed all that and have noticed using an ohm meter there's is very little to no resistance with the car off... But as soon as key is turned on the ground from battery to frame jumps up to 5-7ohms.... Same as when running

And that wire is connected to ground correct so it shouldn't be a power return? Am I right or not? It just seems the brain for all the braking system is faulting as soon as power is applied and it recognizes that.... Also when car was started voltage was 14.7-14.8 after running at idle it's down to 13.9 pretty quickly, maybe 3-5 mins....

Any more help would be greatly appreciated. I would love to fix this thing before Wednesday, which is another long drive for me
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Someone please review the above post as well but wanted to add a little more information......With my Innova Monitor i have also discovered that the CAT, EVAP, O2S, and HTR lights are flashing red....I did have the battery unhooked for 20-30 mins but have also driven the car to let the computer reset.....I need some expert knowledge bad...And no sooner than i reset the ABS codes, the car beeps and they flash back up !!
 
The voltage variations are normal for the Cruze.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Ok i can accept the voltage variations, but why the increased ohm load with key on??? and what about all the lights flashing on my monitor ??? EVAP HTR O2S CAT, could this be indicative of my problem? Theses cars are so problematic
 
This sounds like a general communication failure. Get that cable replaced and then reset the system. As for the increased load with the key on I would expect this - the key turns on all the electrical systems - fuel pump, dash, HVAC blower control, ECU, etc. There will be a load with the key on that simply isn't there with the key off.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
I have replaced the battery cable.. Shouldn't it have reset while the change was being done or is there another way to do it.... I have tried clearing codes as well but none exist other than the abs codes for electronic control unit but I swear I think it's a connection issue
 
My understanding is you need to leave the battery disconnected for at least 20 minutes to reset the system.
 
Out of curiosity, what cause the salvage title?
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
OK so I let it reset and those 4 lights are still flashing.. I don't know if it has to driven so far before it will reset or not... But the stabilitrak and traction control lights flash as soon as key is turned on still still too
 
Ok i can accept the voltage variations, but why the increased ohm load with key on??? and what about all the lights flashing on my monitor ??? EVAP HTR O2S CAT, could this be indicative of my problem? Theses cars are so problematic
You CANNOT measure resistance on a wire with ANY current flowing through it, the proper check would be to measure voltage drop under load--starter-ignition on etc.
also sounds like you have a bunch of stored codes, order one of the Bluetooth obdII code readers-amazon $9-$12 requires a smart phone
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I have a very nice innova code reader $250, reads Dtc, Srs, and abs.... No codes are stored at all, no engine codes, only the abs code that reads electronic control unit hardware.. The ground wire has been changed and shouldn't be an issue, I have literally checked everything I can think of an... I just want the stabilitrak and traction control fixed..... The live sensor readings are from the diagnostic tool which also has a yellow light displayed that's tells engine condition, indicating there are problems.. They're all o2s,heat,evap, lights flashing
 
Hit in the front left but I've been all over this corner looking for damage
Good - not water. Water destroys car electrical systems.
 
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