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1.8 vs. 1.4T both Manual

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nuclearsteel

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm considering a new Cruze and after much research on this site and others, still remain torn between the 1.8 LS or a 1.4T LT1 in a manual. I have a full size truck and SUV so this car will be used for 100% commute to and from work. I drive right now about 140 miles round trip, 4 days per week, and 1 day about 200 miles, so figure on about 750 miles a week.

I'm not looking for any fancy features like the touch screen radio or such. I'm looking for the best mpg, reliability, and all weather (Pennsylvania winters) ability as possible.
Everyone seems to say the 1.4T is worth the extra money...I guess I'm just not seeing it. I can get a LT1 manual for $16,400 OTD with all the rebates and stuff. The LS I can get for about $15,000 OTD.

I would need a 3 to 4 year payback on the MPG to justify the LT1 over the LS...it looks like they are rated 1 MPG combined different. Discount the timing belt change cost because I do all my own work thus the cost would be minimal. Are there real world difference of more than 1 to 3 MPG between the 1.8 and 1.4T???? My math tells me it needs to be about 5 to 7 MPG to be worth it, provided the 1.4T doesn't require 89 octane.

Thoughts??
 
#2 ·
I don't have either engine but from all the reports in road tests I have seen the 1.4T is by far the better engine and because of the extra torque the engine puts out it will give better fuel economy. The 1.8 does not rate very well compared to the 1.4T.
 
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#3 ·
Since you're looking at the manuals, go with the ECO MT with the driver's convenience package. Of the gas Cruze trims this is the only one that will make you happy. Any other trim and you'll be back here a couple of months after purchase complaining about poor fuel economy. The ECO MT seriously out-performs all other Cruze gas trims on the highway for fuel efficiency. In addition, the 1.4T engine simply drives better than the 1.8 (my opinion - owning both).

Both the 1.8 and 1.4T will perform better on 89 octane than on 87, so you'll be putting the same gas into either.

If you're not stuck on rowing your own gears take a look at the Cruze CDT.

Based on my own experience, here are my best estimates of the ECO MT's fuel economy vs. speed

55 MPH: 55 MPG
60 MPH: 52 MPG
65 MPH: 48 MPG
70 MPH: 44 MPG
72 MPH: 42 MPG (This is the EPA highway estimate for the ECO MT)
75 MPH: 39 MPG (Still above the EPA highway estimate for the LT1)
80 MPH: 35 MPG

The numbers for the LT1 will be lower than the ECO MT and the LS will be lower still. The CDT will be higher by 3-5 MPG at each speed.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I'm a little worried about the ECO mostly because of the rims/tires. It snows here a good bit...I would want to put winter tires on the car. I'm not so sure those rims on the eco as for fitting snow tires! In addition to that...no spare tire? Are you kidding me? What's the difference in MPG 1.4T manual vs 1.4T ECO manual.

I found a 2011 ECO manual with about 27K on it that I managed to talk down to about $12.5K out the door.
 
#6 ·
You can add the spare tire to the ECO MT. Follow the link in my sig for instructions (mainly part numbers). The ECO AT doesn't seem to get the additional boost over the EPA that the ECO MT gets. The ECO's wheels are 5x105 17" wheels. All the wheels for the US gas Cruzen are 5x105 and we have members running 16" wheels for winter on their ECO MTs.
 
#7 ·
I've been rocking the ECO wheels through the harshest winter we've had in years and no pits or anything. 17 inch snow tires are pretty available depending on manufacturer. However the steel 16's can be had fairly cheap from my understanding
 
#8 ·
nuclearsteel said:
I'm a little worried about the ECO mostly because of the rims/tires. It snows here a good bit...I would want to put winter tires on the car. I'm not so sure those rims on the eco as for fitting snow tires! In addition to that...no spare tire? Are you kidding me? What's the difference in MPG 1.4T manual vs 1.4T ECO manual.

I found a 2011 ECO manual with about 27K on it that I managed to talk down to about $12.5K out the door.
Click to expand...
I have an Eco. Here's what my car looks like in the winter:

Image


16" Steelies are $200 and you don't have to unmount and re-mount the tires twice a year. Problem solved.

As for the no spare tire, we have a writeup on what you need to buy to get the spare back there. It involves buying the spare, the jack, and the trunk cover I believe. It's not a huge deal. Definitely worth the hassle to get the 50+MPG the car is capable of.

The ECO auto won't get anywhere close to the manual. The manual is an entirely different MPG animal compared to the rest of the Cruzes.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Yes the Eco manual is the way to go. I have one also. I drive 95% city and I am getting @ 32-34 MPG in the city. I also purchased a spare tire like Obermd did off of E bay. I am yet to put the Eco wheels thru a harsh winter but I think they will hold up fine. Only difference from me, I also had a 1.8 LS and the 1.4 Eco or 2LT is the way to go and the 1.4 has the extra power of the turbo which beats the 1.8 hands down. The 1.8 just does not have the turbo and does not "stack up mileage wise and with the mileage you say you put on Eco is your best choice.

Let us know what you choose.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I think if I can get the 2011 for 12K OTD I am going to do it...I know that the 12 and 13's have improvements but my guess is you aren't getting a new one OTD for less than 18K with rebates and GM card, maybe 17K best case. 5K buys ALOT of parts and gas.

Thoughts?
 
#12 ·
2011 are the least reliable off the years obviously but I've been pretty lucky with mine. Only 3 issues all covered under warranty. I'd still recommend the 1.4 but it seems like your looking for the cheapest option.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I think if I can get the 2011 for 12K OTD I am going to do it...I know that the 12 and 13's have improvements but my guess is you aren't getting a new one OTD for less than 18K with rebates and GM card, maybe 17K best case. 5K buys ALOT of parts and gas.

Thoughts?
 
#14 · (Edited)
The 1.8, especially MT, seems to be the more reliable of the bunch since the engine has been around a few years before the North American Cruze to get the kinks worked out of it. But I would still pick the 1.4 every time. The drivability in day-to-day traffic is so, so much better - the 1.8 just really shows the car's weight in the 2000-3500 RPM range.

Realistically...the Eco gets maybe 3-4 MPG more than the 1LT in straight highway driving; ~1 MPG in-town with an 80 lb weight reduction. Test drive one and see if you like the gearing.

I would have no reservations going with a 2011 1.8, but would not touch a 2011 1.4. 2012 1.4 - sure.
 
#15 ·
Which ever 1 you decide to purchase OTD we will still like you for your thurough evaluation of the opinions expressed here .

With all said and done pull the triggger and take a few pics to post up here . We like pics here at the cruze talk ..........
 
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#16 ·
Hey nuclearsteel! I'm glad to hear you're considering a new Cruze. Feel free to send me a private message if there are any specific questions I can answer for you. Welcome to the forum!

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care
 
#17 · (Edited)
If you are buying brand new then you already spent more money than what you could have saved purchasing a used car with comparable MPGs to the 1.8 equipt Cruze. I suggest you drive the 1.8 and the 1.4 back to back and see what the pick up and RPMs are at 42 MPH in top gears and 1st gear with a/c on(if you are in a warmer area then the rest of us). Do not fall for the 1.8 and 1.4 are the exact same HP on paper and 1.8 is bigger so it should be more powerful NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENTstatements. This car and it's North American engine lineup does not fall under that same logic. 1.4 will hurt you more in mph if you have a heavy foot. Also take note the dealership will give you a 1.4 with 87 octane where the rest of us to include 1.8 are using 89 and above. My ECO can't stand 87 and will remind me every time I try to get on it to pass someone even after the plugs were swapped out to something better.

In short the LS will be "cheaper" but remeber this car is not a simple plug and play vehicle when it comes to creature comforts swapped from another car. Fog lights* and Cruise control are just 2 common items people want to add and require the dealership to charge you X amont of hours labor to "unlock" this feature after you installed them correctly if you took the cheaper route of doing it yourself.

*depends on year and month car was made.
 
#18 ·
Would never ever buy a timing belt engine ever again, in particular one with an interference engine. Can be religious about changing the belt well before the 60K limit, 70 bucks now for this POS belt. But the idler or tensioner pulley can brake or seize at any time without a second warning.

Not sure if this is even covered under that 100K warranty, but being stranded out in the middle of nowhere in subzero weather isn't compensated for.

This has to be the most stupidest way to design an engine. 2.2 L Ecotec engine was good where GM spent millions to develop a quiet timing chain. Guide would wear out around 175K, but would give a warning with extra noise, and was easy to change. And at least this area is sealed against the environment with fresh lubricant every oil change.

When removing a timing belt cover, always find a bunch of crap in there. With bent valves, a cracked head, or holes in pistons, this can really ruin your day. At tad more than 70 bucks.
 
#20 ·
The very first OHC car I owned I bought new in 1978 and I didn't know about having to change the cam belt. When I sold it with 203,000km on it the original timing belt was still on it. Only after I traded it in did I find out about needing a new belt every 100,000 km. Oh well the luck of the ignorant !
 
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