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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I'm now debating if I just bite the bullet and buy the shop manual. I know the $200 will be money well spent, but not sure just how long I am going to keep the car.

I really appreciate all the information you are spilling. It is very helpful and know it will come in handy when the time arises.
 

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I'm now debating if I just bite the bullet and buy the shop manual. I know the $200 will be money well spent, but not sure just how long I am going to keep the car.

I really appreciate all the information you are spilling. It is very helpful and know it will come in handy when the time arises.
I'm good at researching problems, but my mechanical wrench skills aren't risky enough.. Hense the reason I research everything. Alldata is what most shops use, and they have the same procedure as the library Chiltons.. I wouldn't spend $200 on manuals.

The only thing I can't understand is why there's not clearance to get the manifold out without removing the downpipe. I think the interference is the exhaust studs. They appear to be studs with nuts vs. bolts. Probably better to work with and clamp better, but it appears the entire manifold would have to slide forward and there might not be clearance without removing the downpipe. or at least loosening it.

Let us know how it goes.. Those back connections look like they might be a little painful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Thanks to GM Parts Direct and their inability to let you know when something is backordered I am just now getting brake parts. I have the rotors, pads, dust shields, bolts, drill bit, and 32mm socket. I am just waiting on the caliper carriers, they are backordered across the nation, but luckily I found someone that had them.



 

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How's the turbo replacement going?
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
It's not. Life has gotten in the way of doing anything. Having a special needs son causes a lot of wrinkles in my ability to do much, lots and lots of appointments.

I am going to place the order for the additional parts in the next day or so and hopefully get to it next weekend. This weekend is going to be brakes and possibly stereo, if there is time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Alright here we are 3 months later and I was finally able to install my turbo. Then un-install the new one. Then re-install the old one.

As I said I found the perfect candidate for the turbo swap, one from a wrecked Buick with only 400 miles on it. The inspection went great, everything looked good except for the actuator had a dent in it and the vacuum nipple at the inlet was bent a little. I chalked it up to the radiator hitting them when the previous car was hit.

Fast forward to Friday night. I get in there and pull the car apart in a couple of hours.



I called it a night and started in on it the following day. My buddy and I get the new one installed without much fanfare, pour in the coolant, start it up, and instantly hear a noise. After double checking everything we notice the compressor to turbine clamp is loose. We tighten it up and start the car up again. Everything sounded great, except the extremely loud purge solenoid my car has. I take it out and it is a complete and utter dog. Thinking the dent in the was worse than originally thought I swapped the old actuator in and that didn't fix it.

This is what I was seeing for "boost" on TorquePro with the pedal being pushed through the floor.


Tear down #2 commenced. After getting the "new" used turbo out my friend and I realize what is wrong. We had a piece of flange fall out of the clamp while pulling the turbo out. We separated the compressor and turbine to find this.




This morning I called up the place I bought it from and they are stepping up and taking the turbo back.

Now what's next. The car still pulls 10-11lbs of boost with the cracked housing and loose wastegate, so I don't have to race out and buy another one. I am completely done with used. A new one is what will be put into my car, but the question is do I just want to bite the bullet and go with the SuperGT14 from VT or get a stock new one from the dealership. Since my turbo is junk the $400 core from VT will need to be factored into the price and $1300 is a tough pill to swallow. Whereas the new from GM one would only be $600 locally.

I have HP tuners to tune for the new turbo and do not plan on running meth or E85 to start.
 
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Wow-

How does that big of a flange piece of metal just fall off? It was on the new Turbo when installed? The surface of the metal looks like a dirty break not clean metal. So I guess the flange was stress fractured either in the accident of the donor car, or removal of the turbo for sale?

There's someone on the forum that has posted that Dorman is now selling a turbo. He''s putting it in an air boat, and I don't think he's posted as to it's success.

I believe it was around $450, and included new band clamp at the exhaust, and exhaust bolts.

It's not listed for a 2012 Cruze, but is listed for a 2013, yet I think the GM part number fit's both the 2012 and 2013, so not sure what's going on with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I forgot to add the process of swapping out the turbo is really pretty easy. It helps to have a second set of hands, but if you take your time and are dedicated to it the process should only take 6 hours max. My buddy and I will be able to get the old one out and the new one in, in about 2 hours the next time.

The process I took is as follows.
Remove negative terminal
Jack car up
Remove overflow cap
Drain coolant
Throw down a bunch of kitty litter/oil clean for when the turbo spits coolant everywhere
Remove turbo heat shield (8mm for each of these)
Remove cat heat shield (8mm bolts)
Remove intake (7mm if factory)
Remove vacuum lines from BPV, actuator, inlet side, outlet side(on the bottom of the turbo and a set of long needle nose pliers is recommended)
Remove the bolt for both the sensor (8mm) and vacuum mount (T15?) on the turbo inlet.
Remove crankcase pressure line (fingers)
Remove oil feed line (8mm bolt on block side and T45 for turbo side) (might be wrong with the T45)
Put drain pan under frame rail on passenger side of car
Remove coolant feed line (17mm with extension) This thing is behind the inlet side of the turbo on the block and is hard to see.
Watch coolant come gushing out and not be able to do anything about it.
Remove 8mm bolt holding the coolant return line to the block and undo clamp on hose with pliers (drivers side of block)
Remove air inlet hose on bottom of turbo (7mm)
Remove band clamp for cat (1/2 or 13mm)
Oil return line. You have two options,
One remove the two bolts (8mm) from the bottom of the turbo. If you are by yourself or have small hands and like climbing
under a car, go for it.
Two slide under the car with a long flat head screw driver, undo the clip holding it to the block and push the hose up. If you
do this remember when you go to pull the turbo out, because that thing will be completely stuck in there and you might not
want to break it like I did.
Remove all 8 10mm head stud nuts, I also took out the heat shield mounts to be safe.
Note on the one behind the inlet. Use a 1/4 drive with a small extension and you will be able to get it from the front.
Otherwise you will tear the snot out of your hands trying to weave them through hoses that don't move, like I did.
Remove the stupid turbo washer that makes absolutely no sense.
Step I did that you might not need to. Remove the three 1/2" nuts from the ball flange at the end of the front cat. This will give the cat some movement for when you try to remove the turbo.
Last step, yank and pull on the stupid turbo until it comes off of the studs and slides out.
Reverse process.
Start your car and take it for a drive, only to realize the turbo is broken and you have absolutely zero boost and you get to do the whole process all over again.

I am pretty sure I captured everything. If I have a chance I can take photos pointing out each of the pieces to make it a little easier for people. Any questions just ask.
 
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Wow-

How does that big of a flange piece of metal just fall off? It was on the new Turbo when installed? The surface of the metal looks like a dirty break not clean metal. So I guess the flange was stress fractured either in the accident of the donor car, or removal of the turbo for sale?

There's someone on the forum that has posted that Dorman is now selling a turbo. He''s putting it in an air boat, and I don't think he's posted as to it's success.

I believe it was around $450, and included new band clamp at the exhaust, and exhaust bolts.

It's not listed for a 2012 Cruze, but is listed for a 2013, yet I think the GM part number fit's both the 2012 and 2013, so not sure what's going on with that.
It had to have come from the accident. I was trying to take the oil/coolant block off of the old turbo and accidentally hit the flange with a hammer and it did't break, so I know it wasn't done it shipping or during install.

I am not going to buy a Dorman, no offense to the company, I just don't want it. I think I have made my mind up with the VT turbo, but now it is time to convince the "boss" why I need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
That is the large metal piece, correct? I reused the old one it is not a consumable part.
 

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What happens if I forgot to put turbo washer back on? I've already torqued the nuts...when I take them off and place turbo washer on, do I have to buy new nuts, since they've already been torqued once?
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I would take the nuts off and put the washer back in. The nuts have not been through any heat cycles, so reusing them will be fine. If you had been driving a lot then I would say throw them away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
If you are talking about the ones that hold the turbo on, yes. It doesn't require much, but it makes sense to do it right.
 
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