[Robby]

It's happening to me as I write. Just received call from my service writer....they cleaned ground contacts and problems still exist. They want to change the $400 cable next and admit that doing so will probably not fix my problems....but that what gm recommends, they say. I was told again that flickering lights are normal....can you believe that? So, I asked...when was the last time you (service writer) saw a car driving down the road with flashing lights? He hasn't, admitting so.

So, if you can help in anyway, I would appreciate it. The number one problem is to have them (gm) take off their corporate hat and put on a common sense hat.

The diagnostic tree, in this case, is to first resolve any known shortcomings in the electrical system.
The ground cable and related ground lugs as well as the engine to body ground have (hopefully) been addressed.

Therefore, it is time for a tech to actually think a bit.
Although the positive side 'may' be contributing I'm stuck on the part where the headlamps (I'm assuming low beam only) are turning on and off.

So, for starters, the headlamps are not flickering.....they are losing all current momentarily......we must stop using the term 'flickering'.

If my understanding of your concern is a full 'On and Off' cycle of the headlamps, yet all other electrical functions are not affected, then the positive cable is the LEAST likely cause of failure.

The Cruze low and high beam circuit is protected by a thermal relay.....the high beams also are protected individually by a fuse for the left and right side.

Going on the assumption, again, that this occurs regardless of low or high beam operation, the circuit feeding the thermal relay or the relay itself is suspect.

The bulbs must be stock for testing.....the bulb terminals must show no signs of overheating or corrosion (melted plastic, blackened terminals).....the stock bulb thing is because the cars electrical system is very close to maximum load carrying ability as stock.

Once these variables have been satisfied then replace the thermal relay......it may have become oversensative to load.
When this happens, the relay goes open, headlamps shut off, relay cools and resets, headlamps turn back on.....over and over again.....first open can take five minutes or so.....from then on, every minute or two with about a three to five second cool down interval.

Beyond recommending a different dealership, that you take the time to explain what supposedly has been done to your car already, thats about all I can offer from this distance.

Rob



UPDATE: Read my next post regarding BCM....seems the protection circuit is now integrated.

 

[Badcruze]

Thanks Rob. Of all the possible problems associated in the "special service," which is in the first post of this thread, I also have my interior dome light lose current momentarily when (simultaneously) the headlights lose their current. I also have had the radio lose shut down for about 2 seconds, then regain power for about 10 seconds, then lose power again for another 2 seconds. That has only happened once. As of yet I haven't had any of the other problems. When my lights lose power and regain power it is so fast it almost looks like strobe light. Is that long enough for the relay to cool? As of now the dealer has replaced the ground cable and cleaned the ground points. I am waiting for a call from them this a.m. as the writer drove the car home last night.

 

[Robby]

Thanks Rob. Of all the possible problems associated in the "special service," which is in the first post of this thread, I also have my interior dome light lose current momentarily when (simultaneously) the headlights lose their current. I also have had the radio lose shut down for about 2 seconds, then regain power for about 10 seconds, then lose power again for another 2 seconds. That has only happened once. As of yet I haven't had any of the other problems. When my lights lose power and regain power it is so fast it almost looks like strobe light. Is that long enough for the relay to cool? As of now the dealer has replaced the ground cable and cleaned the ground points. I am waiting for a call from them this a.m. as the writer drove the car home last night.

I went over to my dealer after posting the relay discussion....so I could provide a location.

Ug.....now, the protection for the circuit is built into the body control module (BCM).....so, put my thoughts on the back shelf for now regarding a simple relay.

That being said, if a positive cable concern, the BCM should be stacking lost communication codes....meaning the circuit feeding it is going open.

Based on the limited info, the first thing that would be tried is the BCM itself but the wiring manual states that in the absence of codes this is the least likely component to fail.
It does state though that every attempt should be made by pulling/shaking wires as well as a visual remove/inspect/re-assemble each connector that is related to the concern in an effort to reproduce the concern before any component replacement.

Since you indicate now that there are interior and exterior lighting issues, the whole process has to be restarted.
This information gives more credibility to a feed side concern and in view of that, there are too many circuits involved for me to make accurate suggestions.

This is going to be one of those head slap, right under the nose type things.....like loose relays or fuses or stud nuts in one of the fuseboxes.

I'll step back and watch for your updates.

Rob

 

[BrownHP800]

We just bought a 2014 Cruze RS 1 week ago today 24k miles. My wife was just out and said she was sitting at a stop light and the radio went off and service stabilitrak came up. It then went off and everything was back to normal.

It sounds like this may be the issue. This is the only time it has happened. Should I be concerned enough to schedule service with the dealer? I still have factory warranty left. What would I tell them happened? I guess it can not be easily replicated to make it do it again.

Thanks.

 

[obermd]

We just bought a 2014 Cruze RS 1 week ago today 24k miles. My wife was just out and said she was sitting at a stop light and the radio went off and service stabilitrak came up. It then went off and everything was back to normal.

It sounds like this may be the issue. This is the only time it has happened. Should I be concerned enough to schedule service with the dealer? I still have factory warranty left. What would I tell them happened? I guess it can not be easily replicated to make it do it again.

Thanks.

I'd give them a call and have them replace the cable. As far as I know everyone who has had these issues has needed to have the cable replaced.

 

[UlyssesSG]

.
Received the special coverage notice dated January 2015 for my 2014 Cruze in today's mail, February 7th. Coverage is 10 years or 120,000 miles from the vehicle's in service date, whichever occurs first. To date I've experienced multiple instances of 'no turn signal sound' and 'Battery Saver Active' has flashed twice on the DIC for no readily apparent reason.

Do I have just cause to take it to the dealership for repair? Not hopeful no matter what because their service department were useless in understanding or repairing my 6T40's flawed behaviour.

 

[obermd]

My understanding is that all you need to do is take the letter in (some dealerships are staffed by idiots who don't read the notices GM sends them) and tell them you're having odd electrical issues. These special notices are slightly different from regular warranty work - the dealership doesn't have to duplicate the problem to ensure payment - they just have to report the special coverage number.

 

[UlyssesSG]

My understanding is that all you need to do is take the letter in (some dealerships are staffed by idiots who don't read the notices GM sends them) and tell them you're having odd electrical issues. These special notices are slightly different from regular warranty work - the dealership doesn't have to duplicate the problem to ensure payment - they just have to report the special coverage number.

obermd,

Thanks for the helpful answer which I will soon employ. You'd make a great wingman or squadron leader and can fly with me anytime.

 

[aaronmanderson3]

I've been wondering what effect these bad negative cables could be having on the electronics and control modules? low voltage, circuits dropping in and out, voltage spikes when they reconnect, etc. I'm not an electronics guru and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night, so I'm in the dark on this one.

Everything you speculated is correct. The added resistance in the battery cable will induce a voltage drop in the cable, so instead of getting 14 volts to the electronics, only 12-13 could be supplied (depending on resistance in the cable and current draw). Depending on each electrical system, this may push the supplied voltage below what is required, causing it to drop out. When they reconnect, the current may spike, again causing a larger voltage drop in the cable. Circuits can do weird things when the supply voltage is right on the edge of the operating voltage. Also, if a component needs a bit more current, a similar condition can occur. This all depends on how exactly the car's electrical system is setup (i.e. voltage regulators, bulk capacitors, etc.), but in a generalization, this is what can happen.

 

[MnMike]

Any chance his could cause my SEL to come on and some random codes to throw? I haven't seen them all, but I recall throttle control and a few others that sound serious, but nothing affecting drivability. Haven't experience any radio or light issues. They're keeping my 2012 1LT w/41k on it til tomorrow.

 

[ChevyGuy]

Any chance his could cause my SEL to come on and some random codes to throw? I haven't seen them all, but I recall throttle control and a few others that sound serious, but nothing affecting drivability. Haven't experience any radio or light issues.

If the power is bad, any number of random issues are possible. I don't think there's a definitive answer one way or another, but it's well within the range of "it makes sense".

 

[MnMike]

Mine ended up being the "steering angle sensor" which caused multiple comm issues with other...stuff. (I'm car/electrical illiterate.) So that was a $212 repair with the diagnostics waived. Could be worse, wish it were the battery cables, though.

 

[ace2123]

Could this cause http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion-forum/121025-dic-issue.html

 

[ChevyGuy]

Could this cause http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion-forum/121025-dic-issue.html

Not impossible, but since you only saw the DIC and not other "glitchy" things, and DIC malfunction is not on the list that others have reported, I'm inclined to say that's probably not it.

 

[KENSTV123]

Everything you speculated is correct. The added resistance in the battery cable will induce a voltage drop in the cable, so instead of getting 14 volts to the electronics, only 12-13 could be supplied (depending on resistance in the cable and current draw). Depending on each electrical system, this may push the supplied voltage below what is required, causing it to drop out. When they reconnect, the current may spike, again causing a larger voltage drop in the cable. Circuits can do weird things when the supply voltage is right on the edge of the operating voltage. Also, if a component needs a bit more current, a similar condition can occur. This all depends on how exactly the car's electrical system is setup (i.e. voltage regulators, bulk capacitors, etc.), but in a generalization, this is what can happen.

What really happens is the voltage drop and resulting surge back from the loads upsets the bootup of the various modules, there is a reset IC or circuit in all of them that is designed to reset the processor within the module at power up, with the voltage drop-surge reset is triggered numerous times resulting into the erratic behavior due to the module internal loaded software not completely loading--think of your PC what happens when the power cuts off while it's on

 

[Lah82]

I just went to the dealership to make an appointment, showed them the special adjustment, and was told that they would look at it when i bring it in but that special adjustments are used when the car won't start. Pulling out of the parking lot I lost power steering, they won't look at it until Wednesday. Will they replace the cable if they can't duplicate the problem?

 

[obermd]

I just went to the dealership to make an appointment, showed them the special adjustment, and was told that they would look at it when i bring it in but that special adjustments are used when the car won't start. Pulling out of the parking lot I lost power steering, they won't look at it until Wednesday. Will they replace the cable if they can't duplicate the problem?

Private Message our Chevy Customer Care account with your VIN and dealership info. Your dealership doesn't know what they're saying.

Personally, if I had a Cruze in my shop (I don't own a shop) and it had any sort of electrical problems at this point I would start with the Negative Battery cable swap simply to remove one possible source of the problem. This is troubleshooting 101 - eliminate any possible known sources of the problem before further diagnosis even begins.

 

[jr718202]

My 2012 Captiva LTZ is experience the following:

-The Radio/HVAC Display turn off and on
-The Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System
-Service Traction Control come on and off
-The turn signal sound may not be heard

It seems to only happen when the outside temperature is 90 degrees and above.

Is this related to this bulletin 14311?

 

[ChevyGuy]

My 2012 Captiva LTZ is experience the following:

-The Radio/HVAC Display turn off and on
-The Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System
-Service Traction Control come on and off
-The turn signal sound may not be heard

It seems to only happen when the outside temperature is 90 degrees and above.

Is this related to this bulletin 14311?

That would be the first place I'd start. Known issue and the repair is likely free. Nothing to lose and everything to gain.

 

[Chevy Customer Care]

My 2012 Captiva LTZ is experience the following:

-The Radio/HVAC Display turn off and on
-The Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System
-Service Traction Control come on and off
-The turn signal sound may not be heard

It seems to only happen when the outside temperature is 90 degrees and above.

Is this related to this bulletin 14311?

Hi there,

Very sorry for the unexpected concerns with your Captiva. I would be more than happy to look into this further for you. Please feel free to send a private message along with your VIN and current mileage. I look forward to your response.

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care