[obermd]

This "fix" doesn't work anyway. GM has a problem on their hands, knows what it is and is waiting for the costs of legal action to outweigh the cost of a proper repair.

We've had a lot of members have the battery cable replaced and for the vast majority of them it fixed their weird electrical problems. Please start a thread on what problems you're having after getting the cable replaced - maybe we can assist.

Edit: I just saw and replied to your other post about the voltage readouts you're seeing.

 

[desi66]

check all the fuses under the hood mine were ALL loose

 

[mwyant]

This was repaired on my 2012 and 30 days later the same issues are occurring... Power flickering off and one, stalls etc.

 

[Joker721]

My 2011 LTZ has been doing the same thing for about 2 months now. I had the battery replaced along with the positive cable (they found some corrosion on the cable) and mentioned the negative cable TSB but the dealer said they won't fix anything unless they can replicate the delayed start up. Typical GM bs and not owning up to the problem. I want the da** thing fixed since the car is paid for.

 

[ChevyGuy]

and mentioned the negative cable TSB but the dealer said they won't fix anything unless they can replicate the delayed start up. Typical GM bs and not owning up to the problem. I want the da** thing fixed since the car is paid for.

Typical bad dealer. That's not GM's requirement. Find another dealer.

 

[Joker721]

Yeah I plan on it for sure.

 

[Chevy Customer Care]

My 2011 LTZ has been doing the same thing for about 2 months now. I had the battery replaced along with the positive cable (they found some corrosion on the cable) and mentioned the negative cable TSB but the dealer said they won't fix anything unless they can replicate the delayed start up. Typical GM bs and not owning up to the problem. I want the da** thing fixed since the car is paid for.

Hello Joker721,

We're very sorry to hear of your unsatisfactory dealership experience. I see that you plan on visiting another certified Chevrolet dealership. We'd be more than glad to provide an extra layer of assistance while the vehicle is being serviced. We're available via private message and only need your VIN, mileage, contact information, and preferred dealership to move forward.

Hope to hear from you soon,

Jasmine
Chevrolet Customer Care

 

[obermd]

Joker721, PM Jasmine and let her know which dealership you're switching to. This way she can alert them that you've been having problems getting this fixed.

 

[theonlypheonix]

This "fix" doesn't work anyway. GM has a problem on their hands, knows what it is and is waiting for the costs of legal action to outweigh the cost of a proper repair.

You are right, but properly phrased the neg cable is NOT the "only" problem that can cause the symptoms you've observed. The ONLY time I will see a voltage under 12V now is during cold crank, glow plugs on which upon final diagnoses may turn out to be the battery issue other have spoke about here. On my F350 truck even during cranking with 200amps being drawn by the glow plugs I do not see under 12V, but then I have two group 35 batteries. :eusa_clap::grin:

I've had similar issues with my vehicle since brand new(only 3mi on the clock) and found that all the high current battery cables are potential suspects for this common problem defect. It requires time, patients to go through each connection with a milli-volt meter to track down the connection problems at each joint. Time most stealerships don't spend or want to spend... they are only part re-placers. What I personally found is that ALL battery cable/lug connections had problems, even the shorty cable on the battery positive post. The final fix for me was to replace ALL high current battery cables with #2 awg cable with my own crimps/lugs which are staked, soldered with silver solder and then final covering with heat shrink. Lastly ALL bolt/lug joints were coated with an electrical anti-ox.

Now I never see a voltage during operation lower then 12.6 V under any load condition or vehicle/engine speed, light load/heavy load. yes since this is a so call "Smart" charge system the voltage will vary depending on conditions including temperature in general and other then solely battery state of charge as compared with the older so call "dumb" systems. The important thing to note is that these "smart" systems are VERY sensitive to ohmic contacts which can make them very erratic in operation or otherwise "DUMB" and retarded in operation. This requires competent diagnostic skills which a lot of stealer techs don't have. Note that the Cruze is NOT the only vehicle with this issue, it can be a potential problem with any vehicle make/model independent that employs a "smart" changing system. The truck owners have been observing these issues long before this has gain notoriety on the Cruze board.

Hope you have better luck with the next dealer.

 

[tierra26]

I am an owner of a 2013 Chevy Cruze...I went into the dealer for this recall. They fix the problem supposedly, after my car was fix. 2 days after my car would not start. Went back to the dealer and they said it was a negative cable. However, I am still having issues to where I might have to replace the battery. As of today the The Theft Deterrent Light is on and also display in the DIC. This will be my 3rd trip(less than a month) back to the dealer because of this issue. I never had any problems before the recall. This is getting overwhelming!

 

[obermd]

I am an owner of a 2013 Chevy Cruze...I went into the dealer for this recall. They fix the problem supposedly, after my car was fix. 2 days after my car would not start. Went back to the dealer and they said it was a negative cable. However, I am still having issues to where I might have to replace the battery. As of today the The Theft Deterrent Light is on and also display in the DIC. This will be my 3rd trip(less than a month) back to the dealer because of this issue. I never had any problems before the recall. This is getting overwhelming!

Since this is not a recall it would be nice to know what symptoms you were having prior to your first trip to the dealership. It is possible that you have a bad battery.

 

[tierra26]

Prior to my first visit at the dealership, my car seem to be running and working fine. Maybe a little glitch with the lights. Since I came in for the recall for the negative cable and also reprogram the PCM. The car has been doing weird things. Such as loosing power, not starting, or the radio dont work. Most current problem is the DIC displays Theft Deterrent system needs to be service. Reading in the manual states that keys could be damage but they are not, try both keys still acting as if the car will not start.

 

[ChevyGuy]

Prior to my first visit at the dealership, my car seem to be running and working fine. Maybe a little glitch with the lights. Since I came in for the recall for the negative cable and also reprogram the PCM. The car has been doing weird things. Such as loosing power, not starting, or the radio dont work. Most current problem is the DIC displays Theft Deterrent system needs to be service. Reading in the manual states that keys could be damage but they are not, try both keys still acting as if the car will not start.

I'm not sure what Chevy did to make sure the bad cables where purged from the supply chain. Because it sounds like you got a bad cable. Or else the dealer did a bad job of changing it.

 

[Robby]

There is a difference at the battery lug for a bolt on secondary ground wire......so there is a visual difference.

That doesn't mean that a new cable is correctly assembled though.......the majority of the original cables were fine but a larger percentage of failure was noted by Chevrolet....hence the warranty extension.

That being said, there is nothing that says a new cable is always a good cable and since tierra26 is having more concerns since replacement of the cable, it should be exchanged again.

Rob

 

[theonlypheonix]

I would quit screwing around with the dealer... just fix it once and for all! Re-stake the battery clamp and the lug at opposite end, drill and solder the crimp area on both ends, clean and put heat shrink over it. No more problems for sure, forever, no more screwing around wasting time at the dealer. Personally I do not have the time to waste with the dealer tech's, fix it yourself or have a friend who can solder do it. And by the way your could have problems with ANY of those crimp on lugs on any of the high current cables.

 

[ChevyGuy]

I would quit screwing around with the dealer... just fix it once and for all! Re-stake the battery clamp and the lug at opposite end, drill and solder the crimp area on both ends, clean and put heat shrink over it.

All well and fine if you have the tools.

 

[Joker721]

I went to a different dealer and they fixed it no problem. I suppose each dealer can do what they want special warranty wise? Anyway the tech had the negative battery cable changed out in an hour and they said they had quite a few Cruzes come in with that issue. Car has had no startup issues since the change out on Friday.

 

[obermd]

I went to a different dealer and they fixed it no problem. I suppose each dealer can do what they want special warranty wise? Anyway the tech had the negative battery cable changed out in an hour and they said they had quite a few Cruzes come in with that issue. Car has had no startup issues since the change out on Friday.

Please post the two dealership names - the bad one so our members know not to go there and the good one so our members know to go there.

 

[Joker721]

Fairway Chevy in Las Vegas fixed it with no issues so stick with them. The other dealer Findlay Chevy has done all my maintenance/warranty issues in the past with no problem, just the negative battery cable fix they wouldn't.

 

[gyrfalcon]

Anyone have pictures of the old and new cables? As well as the entire builtin?