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Right, and the Alternator wire is a positive (power) wire, correct? Looks like it gets attached to the Positive on the battery, so I assume it is.
Not directly to the battery.
Look at step 8. It attaches to the same point that the stock alt cable attaches to on top of the battery on the distribution block.


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Ok, so just a couple of things I found while installing, on my 2011 Eco anyway:

  1. Awesome writeup!
  2. all bolts listed as 13mm were actually 10mm
  3. the bolt on the alternator was 13mm
  4. The 4ga wire does not fit with the cover closed on the battery without removing more than just the small tabs inside of it. I had to remove a piece from the side as well
  5. Here is a pic of the Alternator bolt, taken from under the car:


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Please let me know if anyone finds any discrepancies with the size of the wrenches/sockets needed. I did that all from memory and I have no idea if it's the same for all 2011-2013 1.4's.
Just installed these in my 2012 ECO. The 2 posts near the front grille and the one on the neg battery terminal are 10mm.

I'm showing an increase in voltage now, from 14.7V at idle to 14.9-15V. And they look great under the hood with the TECHFLEX wrapping on them.

My only problem was that no matter how hard I tried, I could not install the engine ground cable without it touching the hoses. Hopefully the heat will not affect it.
 

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My only problem was that no matter how hard I tried, I could not install the engine ground cable without it touching the hoses. Hopefully the heat will not affect it.
I had to route it around the back of the engine, along the wire loom running from the alternator, and then up to the back of the battery. I will try and get some pics of it this week.
 

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I had to route it around the back of the engine, along the wire loom running from the alternator, and then up to the back of the battery. I will try and get some pics of it this week.
I did the same with the alternator cable. I'm talking about the cable that bolted to the front of the motor, above the turbo heat shield.
 

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Anyone figure out if the headlight dimming went away? I installed my system and have the dimming so my next step is the big 3. And does anyone know how many amps our alternator puts out? Anyone with a system want to chime in? Thanks

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Anyone figure out if the headlight dimming went away? I installed my system and have the dimming so my next step is the big 3. And does anyone know how many amps our alternator puts out? Anyone with a system want to chime in? Thanks

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The big 3 will help greatly with the dimming, what is your voltage at full tilt, what is the fuse rating on your amp, and our alt is a 120 amp alt.


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Anyone figure out if the headlight dimming went away? I installed my system and have the dimming so my next step is the big 3. And does anyone know how many amps our alternator puts out? Anyone with a system want to chime in? Thanks

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Not 100% but it is still much better than it was. My dimming is hardly noticeable now.
 

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Great How-to. I used this to make and install JL Audio premium #1/0 this weekend. I will also add that my studs by the radiator were 10mm and the stud on the alternator was I believe 12mm.
 

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Who else has benefitted from this?

Thinking about making my own kit, of sorts. I've done mods like this with all my previous cars, adding grounding kits and upgrading stock wiring with thicker welding cable, soldering crimp ends on them and shrink wrapping.

What about battery terminals themselves though? There are lots... I used to use these on my last car: Electronics Product Technology Electronic device Electrical supply
 

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You could make your own, but IMO Terry's kit won't be more expensive. His kit is is already measured, he uses KNU OFC, solders the closed terminals, and cleans it up with shrink wrap. The amount of time it takes and the materials you'd need to source yourself wouldn't make sense from a cost perspective.

If you do this, make sure you are soldering closed-ring terminals and using shrink wrap to cover up the connection. You will have long-term issues if you don't.

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You could make your own, but IMO Terry's kit won't be more expensive. His kit is is already measured, he uses KNU OFC, solders the closed terminals, and cleans it up with shrink wrap. The amount of time it takes and the materials you'd need to source yourself wouldn't make sense from a cost perspective.

If you do this, make sure you are soldering closed-ring terminals and using shrink wrap to cover up the connection. You will have long-term issues if you don't.

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Is it the moisture that would cause it to have long term issues?
 

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You could make your own, but IMO Terry's kit won't be more expensive. His kit is is already measured, he uses KNU OFC, solders the closed terminals, and cleans it up with shrink wrap. The amount of time it takes and the materials you'd need to source yourself wouldn't make sense from a cost perspective.

If you do this, make sure you are soldering closed-ring terminals and using shrink wrap to cover up the connection. You will have long-term issues if you don't.

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Measurements aside, I already have all the materials to make this type of kit myself. I used to be an electrician, so soldering and crimping and heat shrinking are my thing ;) - definitely like this kit though, well thought out and clean looking.

I just was wondering, for everyone who is this concerned with battery voltage, etc, has anyone considered upgrading the stock battery terminals themselves?
 

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Thanks for this. I didn't use Terry's kit (wasn't sure how much hassle I'd have getting it cross-border), so I sourced some what appear to be decent cables locally (although they don't appear to be soldered ends (i'll redo that later myself)), this definitely improved things.

Without the pics, I would have been lost!
 

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One thing I'm not seeing in this write-up - I'm not seeing any caution to run any wires to the negative battery terminal though the current-measuring "doughnut". If that's not done, then the computer will get a false reading on the current going into the battery. That could lead to shorter battery life or other electrical problems.

Perhaps that's not on the earlier Curzes.
 
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