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Thanks for the video. Will be doing this within the week. If my orange nipple is still in the manifold and i use a pick or screwdriver to get it out.. what if it falls inside the manifold and i cant get it out? is that ok?or Does it have to be removed? Just dont want to damage anything. thanks
I mean, it's generally not great for an engine to ingest any foreign objects...but in the case of the tiny silicone check valve, it's unlikely to hurt anything. It'll get ingested but it's soft and small so it would get more or less disintegrated by a combustion cycle, and the fragments would get blown out the exhaust.
 
Discussion starter · #884 ·
took my pcv hose off today to check for the nipple. I can still see it in there.. But not sure if it it's seated properly?? Can barely see it. Does it look ok to you guys or?? It's really greasy and oily in there..Is that normal? Do I need to do the v3 kit or am I good for now?
It is indeed very dirty and likely not working properly anymore. You can try cleaning it, but most times you do that it ends up failing on its own soon after since the gunk is the only thing keeping it stuck in place.
 
I ordered the v3.4 kit yesterday! Also ordered new pcv hose and vapor canister purge valve.

When I jb weld the plug in the intake is the goal not to cover the little holes around the nipple? If I put too much jb weld and covers the little holes too is that a problem? Just want to know how careful I should be. Thanks
 
I ordered the v3.4 kit yesterday! Also ordered new pcv hose and vapor canister purge valve.

When I jb weld the plug in the intake is the goal not to cover the little holes around the nipple? If I put too much jb weld and covers the little holes too is that a problem? Just want to know how careful I should be. Thanks
The goal is to completely block the port into the intake manifold itself. If you read back through this thread, it explains why this is necessary.
If this were a naturally aspirated engine, there would be no check valve there, and the kit would not be necessary due to manifold vacuum - and there would be no PCV diaphragm, either. But, because this is a turbocharged engine, the check valve is necessary - when the intake manifold is under vacuum, PCV gases are routed directly into the manifold, but under boost, the check valve closes, preventing excessive crankcase pressure (which can blow out seals), and PCV gases are routed to the turbo inlet.

When the valve fails, there is nothing to prevent positive boost pressure from building in the PCV system and crankcase. In addition to blowing oil past the rings, this puts the PCV diaphragm under excessive pressure, causing rupture, and as I mentioned above can cause premature seal failure.

The kit blocks the OEM check valve entirely, and instead taps into the EVAP purge line with an external check valve that is easy to replace. Thus, too much JB Weld is less of a problem than too little, because you want to ensure the OEM check valve port is completely blocked. Just make sure you don't stuff as much epoxy as you can down the hole, because you don't want to block the PCV port - just the valve port.
 
Hi all,
I have installed the v3.4+ kit on my 2011 Cruze without any issues. I have a problem for years now and I was hoping that this modification would resolve this problem too.
The problem is with breaks when idling, so when the brake pump is working. When I push the pedal the brakes are ok but when I push it again no breaks or very weak. It happens only when the engine is idling. I have change the small vacuum switch and master cylinder but the problem still exist. The pump works, I can hear it when the key is on and the air is coming from it. GM was not able to find the problem. Any ideas ?
 
Hello, I'm working on my sister's car and we installed the fix kit awhile back. But now we're having trouble with the valve cover gasket blowing out and there's quite a bit of pressure in the crankcase. Is it possible that we have a bad valve? Or is there a problem with the intake manifold? We installed a new valve cover when we did the fix @XtremeRevolution
 
So after a short while of the car performing like new again, its started play up, surging as the boost comes and goes cutting in and out, sometimes boost not coming on at all and I've had the underboost code several times. I have checked all the hoses and all joints seem fine. However when checking the one way valve I took the hose off and there was a lot of oil in the pipe, what could be causing this? Also this evening whilst sitting in the car clearing the fault codes I put my foot on the brake and the pedal went straight to the floor, it did this several times, if I gave it a quick rev there was pressure in the pedal again so it seems there is a vacuum leak? It is still drawing air through, I think, the main crank seal causing the squeaking or the sound of air being sucked, but it only does this when the aircon is on, which is strange. If I pull the dipstick it stops and if I squeeze the small air hose it will also stop the squeak. Any Ideas?
I am also having this same problem after installing it , excessive pressure in the head blows out the dipstick when you pull it, and that squeak comes from the sump on mine. Isn't it the pressure that caused the problem in the first place by blowing the diagram in the valve cover.
 
Discussion starter · #892 ·
Hello, I'm working on my sister's car and we installed the fix kit awhile back. But now we're having trouble with the valve cover gasket blowing out and there's quite a bit of pressure in the crankcase. Is it possible that we have a bad valve? Or is there a problem with the intake manifold? We installed a new valve cover when we did the fix @XtremeRevolution
Apologies for how long it took me to get back to this. I’ve been dealing with some things lately. It’s possible you installed the check valve backwards or the valve cover is defective. Also possible you could have an obstruction in the cylinder head somewhere. I get reports of this quite frequently with aftermarket valve covers.


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Discussion starter · #893 ·
I am also having this same problem after installing it , excessive pressure in the head blows out the dipstick when you pull it, and that squeak comes from the sump on mine. Isn't it the pressure that caused the problem in the first place by blowing the diagram in the valve cover.
Could be a defective valve cover. Is your valve cover OEM or aftermarket?


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Discussion starter · #894 ·
Hi all,
I have installed the v3.4+ kit on my 2011 Cruze without any issues. I have a problem for years now and I was hoping that this modification would resolve this problem too.
The problem is with breaks when idling, so when the brake pump is working. When I push the pedal the brakes are ok but when I push it again no breaks or very weak. It happens only when the engine is idling. I have change the small vacuum switch and master cylinder but the problem still exist. The pump works, I can hear it when the key is on and the air is coming from it. GM was not able to find the problem. Any ideas ?
There’s a series of hoses and a check valve that connect to the brake booster. It’s a known issue that the check valve there can fail, and there was even a recall for it for some years.


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Yeah, should be fine. You just don't want that dripping down into the head. But at least you got a good seal on the vacuum port.
I had the same issue with mine. Orange check valve was barely showing. Tried to push it through but it seemed to be jammed in there. I used epoxy in 2 stages over the course of a weekend to paste over the valve hole. Letting it dry for at least 15 hours each time. Fitted the V2 kit. Everything bar the valve part went as planned. Car runs so much better now and I've finally got round to fitting a new valve cover and plugs this last weekend.
 
So I have the V2 kit now for 20k miles in 1 Cruse, just installed another V2 in the other Cruze when it's intake failed.
The check valve DOES NOT impress in the V3 on up kit. I like the big brass ones I have.
True, you pull the intake. The screw with the epoxy seems easier and more sure than trying to work through that tiny hose hole with a plastic clip. Plus you can get your red valve pieces out. Mine was still there but ripped, wasn't sealing.
 
This is on my 2014 Cruze, it's at 107K miles. I finally started investigating it because it started chirping at idle. No check engine light, no codes, not a one. Car ran OK.
Found the valve cover sucking air at the disc hole, replaced the valve cover with a GM one. Was the original. Installed the V2 PCV kit in the intake. The red valve was still there but split. Found the corrugated turbo PCV tube was leaking, it was restricting air some but not like a new one. replaced that too.
WOW! it's like a whole different car! Power, smoothness, mpg, it's all there! New car at 107k miles! Hard to tell when each part went bad and when performance dropped.
How can it not set 5 codes for this?? Not even 1??

THanks again Andrei!!!!!
 
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