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GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits

576489 Views 887 Replies 205 Participants Last post by  V0latyle
GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits


Overview
These fix kits apply to the following vehicles with the GM 1.4L Turbo LUJ/LUV/A14NET engine:
2011-2016 Limited 1.4L Cruze
2011-2018 Chevy Sonic/Aveo
2015+ Chevy Trax
2015+ Buick Encore
2011+ Opel/Vauxhall Corsa (Turbo only)
2009+ Opel/Vauxhall Astra J (Turbo only)
2010+ Opel/Vauxhall Meriva B
2011+ Opel/Vauxhall Zafira Tourer


SCROLL DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST FOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

The 1.4L Turbo engine (LUJ/LUV) in the Chevy Cruze/Sonic/Trax and Buick Encore has a check valve in the intake manifold that has a 100% failure rate. Out of warranty, it can cost as much as $350 to replace. There is no redesigned part for this (at the time of this post's writing), and new intake manifolds are still failing regularly after about 30,000-60,000 miles. The Dorman intake reportedly has the same flawed design. This thread presents two fix options that can be implemented for between $85 (V2) and $130 (V1), which is cheaper than all other aftermarket options.

DISCLAIMER: This solution has received validation testing and is currently considered reliable. To ensure a proper install, MAKE SURE YOU READ AND UNDERSTAND EVERYTHING IN THIS POST. Neither myself nor CruzeTalk.com accept any liability for what happens during or after the installation of this kit. This kit is only being offered for convenience; it is your responsibility to ensure that all of the components of the kit are clean and are in good operating condition. For full disclaimer, click here.

Read the first post on the following thread, which explains how our PCV system works and will help you understand the solution better:
2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

The basic principle is simple. You have two chambers; the intake downstream of the throttle body, and the PCV chamber. You need to allow gas to freely flow from the PCV chamber into the intake chamber when the engine is under vacuum (not producing boost), but block that flow of gas when the engine is producing boost. You need to be able to do this while sustaining pressures of 15-30psi (stock/tuned vehicles). The OEM intake manifold check valve serves this function decently well, while it works, but the check valve stops sealing well after a few thousand miles, producing an audible boost leak, and eventually disappears altogether. This solution offers you the opportunity to cleanly retrofit a durable, leak-free external check valve that can be serviced easily and replaced for $15-$25 should the check valve itself ever fail.

Benefits to this fix kit are:
  • Eliminates boost leak caused by aged, worn, or clogged OEM check valve
  • Solves boost leak, loss of power, poor fuel economy, and oil consumption caused by missing OEM check valve
  • The new external check valve is easily accessible for cleaning, and can be replaced for $10-$20
  • Stops oil consumption caused by missing check valve. Oil consumption will cause carbon build up on the piston crown and ring lands, which can cause detonation and piston damage.
  • Much longer lasting than the OEM check valve due to more robust design.
This design is patent pending.

PCV Fix Kit Comparison
I have three kits available for fixing this PCV system. Here are here are the differences between them:

V1 Kit: This is the original PCV fix kit. This kit routes the PCV gas through a check valve into a BNR throttle body spacer. Because this kit requires a throttle body spacer, it is more expensive to use if you don't already have the spacer. However, those who already have a BNR throttle body spacer, or want one for other purposes will find the V1 kit cheaper by $10. One benefit to this kit is that the check valve can be removed for inspection or cleaning by disconnecting the throttle body spacer, which doesn't require intake manifold removal.

V2.1 Kit: I designed the original V2 kit to reduce the cost of this fix as it doens't require the BNR throttle body spacer. Instead of returning the PCV gas to a BNR throttle body spacer like the V1 kit does, the V2.1 kit uses a Y fitting on the EVAP purge line or optionally, a brake booster tee fititng. While the adapter and some components add to the cost of the kit itself, the V2 kit saves you $50 as you no longer need to buy a separate BNR throttle body spacer. Please note that the check valve cannot be easily removed for inspection without pulling the intake manifold itself. However, the check valve is extremely robust and over-built for this application. The V2 kit is also easier and quicker to install and does not require the inch-pound torque wrench you need to get the throttle body spacer and throttle body back on. Please note, however, that the optional brake booster tee fitting should be checked and cleaned (if necessary) about at least every 50,000 miles or 2 years

V3.4 Kit: The V3 kit is the most recent PCV fix kit design, with a completely top-side installation that in most cases, does not require intake manifold removal. The V.43 kit also replaces the OEM PCV pipe (the corrugated/accordion hose from the intake manifold to the turbo, which has a high rate of failure due to cracking) while re-using the terminals. The V3.4 kit's check valve is also easily serviceable without intake manifold removal.

Purchase Details:
Orders are handled on my website at CruzeKits.com.

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Alternate Order Options
Please contact me for multiple-order discounts if you need to purchase more than one kit at a time, if you need a re-install kit, or if you need any replacement parts. I can also ship overnight via UPS if needed.



Installation Instructions
V1 Fix Kit Instructions: How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install

V2.1 Fix Kit Instructions: Coming Soon

V3 Fix Kit Instructions:
881 - 888 of 888 Posts

· Registered
2016 Cruze Limited
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35 Posts
Thanks for the video. Will be doing this within the week. If my orange nipple is still in the manifold and i use a pick or screwdriver to get it out.. what if it falls inside the manifold and i cant get it out? is that ok?or Does it have to be removed? Just dont want to damage anything. thanks
I mean, it's generally not great for an engine to ingest any foreign objects...but in the case of the tiny silicone check valve, it's unlikely to hurt anything. It'll get ingested but it's soft and small so it would get more or less disintegrated by a combustion cycle, and the fragments would get blown out the exhaust.
 

· Administrator
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14,726 Posts
Discussion Starter · #884 ·
took my pcv hose off today to check for the nipple. I can still see it in there.. But not sure if it it's seated properly?? Can barely see it. Does it look ok to you guys or?? It's really greasy and oily in there..Is that normal? Do I need to do the v3 kit or am I good for now?
It is indeed very dirty and likely not working properly anymore. You can try cleaning it, but most times you do that it ends up failing on its own soon after since the gunk is the only thing keeping it stuck in place.
 

· Registered
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680 Posts
I ordered the v3.4 kit yesterday! Also ordered new pcv hose and vapor canister purge valve.

When I jb weld the plug in the intake is the goal not to cover the little holes around the nipple? If I put too much jb weld and covers the little holes too is that a problem? Just want to know how careful I should be. Thanks
 

· Registered
2016 Cruze Limited
Joined
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35 Posts
I ordered the v3.4 kit yesterday! Also ordered new pcv hose and vapor canister purge valve.

When I jb weld the plug in the intake is the goal not to cover the little holes around the nipple? If I put too much jb weld and covers the little holes too is that a problem? Just want to know how careful I should be. Thanks
The goal is to completely block the port into the intake manifold itself. If you read back through this thread, it explains why this is necessary.
If this were a naturally aspirated engine, there would be no check valve there, and the kit would not be necessary due to manifold vacuum - and there would be no PCV diaphragm, either. But, because this is a turbocharged engine, the check valve is necessary - when the intake manifold is under vacuum, PCV gases are routed directly into the manifold, but under boost, the check valve closes, preventing excessive crankcase pressure (which can blow out seals), and PCV gases are routed to the turbo inlet.

When the valve fails, there is nothing to prevent positive boost pressure from building in the PCV system and crankcase. In addition to blowing oil past the rings, this puts the PCV diaphragm under excessive pressure, causing rupture, and as I mentioned above can cause premature seal failure.

The kit blocks the OEM check valve entirely, and instead taps into the EVAP purge line with an external check valve that is easy to replace. Thus, too much JB Weld is less of a problem than too little, because you want to ensure the OEM check valve port is completely blocked. Just make sure you don't stuff as much epoxy as you can down the hole, because you don't want to block the PCV port - just the valve port.
 

· Registered
2016 Cruze Limited
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35 Posts
Thanks for the details. I basically put as much epoxy i could fit on the plug. Might have went a little heavy. I did see it dripping down under the plug a little. Ill be ok right?
Yeah, should be fine. You just don't want that dripping down into the head. But at least you got a good seal on the vacuum port.
 
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