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Has anyone had any issue with vacuum supplied to the brake booster line that plugs into the intake manifold after installing this kit? Troubleshooting a hard brake pedal issue at times and believe this kit shouldn't cut off that vacuum after I installed it.
thanks in advance, just going through the checklist.
 
Sorry if it's already been answered - I didn't find it searching. Is it possible to upgrade from the v2.1 kit to v3.4? I'm finding the value under the manifold seems to be seeping oil and access is a pain to say the least unless I want to remove the manifold. Thanks
 
Hey Andrei, could use an assist on my V3.3 install from probably 2 years ago. When I installed it, wasn't having any symptoms of it being installed incorrectly, but I also had a turbo with a bad bearing that wouldn't produce full boost. Recently, I finally got a new turbo and the car can now consistently create 12+ pounds of boost. Along with that, started getting some oil leaks that will leave small drips on the ground.

I'm 1,000 miles away from home with the car and was investigating the leak. I changed the oil to Maxlife Synthetic high mileage 5w-30 to see if that helps with the leak, and also decided to change my check valve to the spare I've had in the trunk. When I took the check valve off (double checked existing one was installed the correct direction), I decided to check the PCV system by blowing into the tube past where the check valve is installed (so blowing into the intake manifold). I had the fitting off the PCV system (the fitting that goes over where you check the orange nipple and install the new plug with JB Weld) and when blowing into the manifold was having air come out of there (therefore, it seems like air was coming past the plug with JB Weld). I double checked by putting a paper towel over that and watching it move when blowing.

I am thinking that should NOT be possible and therefore there was not enough JB Weld on the plug when installing, and thus I have some boost pushing through the plug and into the crankcase, causing my leaks. What a nightmare.... What is the best course of action here? Is it possible to add extra JB Weld and pray it works and doesn't break loose into the crankcase, or do I need a new manifold and install a new plug? I'd like to fix it up before the return trip, but if I need a new manifold I'll probably end up driving back as-is.
 
Discussion starter · #905 ·
Hey Andrei, could use an assist on my V3.3 install from probably 2 years ago. When I installed it, wasn't having any symptoms of it being installed incorrectly, but I also had a turbo with a bad bearing that wouldn't produce full boost. Recently, I finally got a new turbo and the car can now consistently create 12+ pounds of boost. Along with that, started getting some oil leaks that will leave small drips on the ground.

I'm 1,000 miles away from home with the car and was investigating the leak. I changed the oil to Maxlife Synthetic high mileage 5w-30 to see if that helps with the leak, and also decided to change my check valve to the spare I've had in the trunk. When I took the check valve off (double checked existing one was installed the correct direction), I decided to check the PCV system by blowing into the tube past where the check valve is installed (so blowing into the intake manifold). I had the fitting off the PCV system (the fitting that goes over where you check the orange nipple and install the new plug with JB Weld) and when blowing into the manifold was having air come out of there (therefore, it seems like air was coming past the plug with JB Weld). I double checked by putting a paper towel over that and watching it move when blowing.

I am thinking that should NOT be possible and therefore there was not enough JB Weld on the plug when installing, and thus I have some boost pushing through the plug and into the crankcase, causing my leaks. What a nightmare.... What is the best course of action here? Is it possible to add extra JB Weld and pray it works and doesn't break loose into the crankcase, or do I need a new manifold and install a new plug? I'd like to fix it up before the return trip, but if I need a new manifold I'll probably end up driving back as-is.
Keep in mind that you will get air moving between the crankase and the intake even with that check valve port plugged up. Same thing happens when you do a boost leak test; you inevitably pressurize the crankcase because air will pass through the piston rings, especially if one of the intake valves is open. The best check is a visual one. Is the plug still there? Does it look like it has some epoxy around it? If so, you're good to go.

You won't have issues from a tiny leak in that plug, even if one does exist. The amount of air that could get through there is completley inconsequential. The biggest leak is that center hole, which was filled in with the plug.

What does the plug look like visually?
 
Thanks Andrei. That brings some peace of mind that there isn't a ton of boost leaking past and risking blowing out seals and making the leak worse. The plug is still in there and I did use quite a bit of epoxy when installing, so the tiny holes should be mostly plugged. I used brake clean to inspect this week and stuck a screwdriver in the hole and the plug is definitely seated solidly.

I'd like to take care of the slow oil leak since it's just enough to be leaving drips of oil on the ground (assuming high mileage oil doesn't stop it), but want to be sure some seal isn't going to blow out right away again. The leak seems to be the oil pan, it's pretty uniform around the pan but focused primarily on the accessory side of the engine, so it could be the main seal as well. It's definitely not coming from the cam phasers. The intake manifold is less than a year old (OEM) which I had replaced ironically due to an oil leak. The intake manifold seems rock solid and no sign of burst disk on it.

Should the turbo be making more than 12 PSI consistently? Mine will hover around 11psi for extended time (measured via Torque app, which I understand isn't 100% exact) and will hit 12 in bursts, but usually won't go above (93 octane). Do I need a boost leak test?
 
Discussion starter · #907 ·
Thanks Andrei. That brings some peace of mind that there isn't a ton of boost leaking past and risking blowing out seals and making the leak worse. The plug is still in there and I did use quite a bit of epoxy when installing, so the tiny holes should be mostly plugged. I used brake clean to inspect this week and stuck a screwdriver in the hole and the plug is definitely seated solidly.

I'd like to take care of the slow oil leak since it's just enough to be leaving drips of oil on the ground (assuming high mileage oil doesn't stop it), but want to be sure some seal isn't going to blow out right away again. The leak seems to be the oil pan, it's pretty uniform around the pan but focused primarily on the accessory side of the engine, so it could be the main seal as well. It's definitely not coming from the cam phasers. The intake manifold is less than a year old (OEM) which I had replaced ironically due to an oil leak. The intake manifold seems rock solid and no sign of burst disk on it.

Should the turbo be making more than 12 PSI consistently? Mine will hover around 11psi for extended time (measured via Torque app, which I understand isn't 100% exact) and will hit 12 in bursts, but usually won't go above (93 octane). Do I need a boost leak test?
Boost leak tests may be helpful if you’re chasing down a boost leak. The oil pan leak is a common issue on these cars even with a working PCV system.

Turbo will make any PSI it needs to reach 148lb-ft since the ECU’s job is to reach target torque, not a specific PSI. If it can do that with 10PSI, then that’s all that your turbo will make. This could be 12psi and it could be 16psi. All depends on the conditions present. What you should be comparing in Torque is the commanded boost and the measured boost on the MAP sensor. If those are too far apart, you’ll see a p0299 code pop up. This can also be caused by a dirty/sticking bypass valve solenoid (the one under the intake manifold on the passenger side).


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Discussion starter · #910 ·
Hi, is this gunked up PCV port normal? I can see the rubber nipple but is it safe to assume it's too gunked up to be working?
That looks pretty bad to me. I would assume it's not functioning optimally at this point.
 
Discussion starter · #913 ·
View attachment 307497 Idk if this bk part is from an Opel or an AUDI!
The whole PCV system on these cars is a German design. I think it was designed by Mann-Hummel but don't quote me on that. You'll find similar systems on VAG and BMW products of that era.
 
The whole PCV system on these cars is a German design. I think it was designed by Mann-Hummel but don't quote me on that. You'll find similar systems on VAG and BMW products of that era.
Wait I thought the Germans always made quality things?! I am let down 😥
 
GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits


Overview
These fix kits apply to the following vehicles with the GM 1.4L Turbo LUJ/LUV/A14NET engine:
2011-2016 Limited 1.4L Cruze
2011-2018 Chevy Sonic/Aveo
2015+ Chevy Trax
2015+ Buick Encore
2011+ Opel/Vauxhall Corsa (Turbo only)
2009+ Opel/Vauxhall Astra J (Turbo only)
2010+ Opel/Vauxhall Meriva B
2011+ Opel/Vauxhall Zafira Tourer


SCROLL DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST FOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

The 1.4L Turbo engine (LUJ/LUV) in the Chevy Cruze/Sonic/Trax and Buick Encore has a check valve in the intake manifold that has a 100% failure rate. Out of warranty, it can cost as much as $350 to replace. There is no redesigned part for this (at the time of this post's writing), and new intake manifolds are still failing regularly after about 30,000-60,000 miles. The Dorman intake reportedly has the same flawed design. This thread presents two fix options that can be implemented for between $85 (V2) and $130 (V1), which is cheaper than all other aftermarket options.

DISCLAIMER: This solution has received validation testing and is currently considered reliable. To ensure a proper install, MAKE SURE YOU READ AND UNDERSTAND EVERYTHING IN THIS POST. Neither myself nor CruzeTalk.com accept any liability for what happens during or after the installation of this kit. This kit is only being offered for convenience; it is your responsibility to ensure that all of the components of the kit are clean and are in good operating condition. For full disclaimer, click here.

Read the first post on the following thread, which explains how our PCV system works and will help you understand the solution better:
2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

The basic principle is simple. You have two chambers; the intake downstream of the throttle body, and the PCV chamber. You need to allow gas to freely flow from the PCV chamber into the intake chamber when the engine is under vacuum (not producing boost), but block that flow of gas when the engine is producing boost. You need to be able to do this while sustaining pressures of 15-30psi (stock/tuned vehicles). The OEM intake manifold check valve serves this function decently well, while it works, but the check valve stops sealing well after a few thousand miles, producing an audible boost leak, and eventually disappears altogether. This solution offers you the opportunity to cleanly retrofit a durable, leak-free external check valve that can be serviced easily and replaced for $15-$25 should the check valve itself ever fail.

Benefits to this fix kit are:
  • Eliminates boost leak caused by aged, worn, or clogged OEM check valve
  • Solves boost leak, loss of power, poor fuel economy, and oil consumption caused by missing OEM check valve
  • The new external check valve is easily accessible for cleaning, and can be replaced for $10-$20
  • Stops oil consumption caused by missing check valve. Oil consumption will cause carbon build up on the piston crown and ring lands, which can cause detonation and piston damage.
  • Much longer lasting than the OEM check valve due to more robust design.
This design is patent pending.

PCV Fix Kit Comparison
I have three kits available for fixing this PCV system. Here are here are the differences between them:

V1 Kit: This is the original PCV fix kit. This kit routes the PCV gas through a check valve into a BNR throttle body spacer. Because this kit requires a throttle body spacer, it is more expensive to use if you don't already have the spacer. However, those who already have a BNR throttle body spacer, or want one for other purposes will find the V1 kit cheaper by $10. One benefit to this kit is that the check valve can be removed for inspection or cleaning by disconnecting the throttle body spacer, which doesn't require intake manifold removal.

V2.1 Kit: I designed the original V2 kit to reduce the cost of this fix as it doens't require the BNR throttle body spacer. Instead of returning the PCV gas to a BNR throttle body spacer like the V1 kit does, the V2.1 kit uses a Y fitting on the EVAP purge line or optionally, a brake booster tee fititng. While the adapter and some components add to the cost of the kit itself, the V2 kit saves you $50 as you no longer need to buy a separate BNR throttle body spacer. Please note that the check valve cannot be easily removed for inspection without pulling the intake manifold itself. However, the check valve is extremely robust and over-built for this application. The V2 kit is also easier and quicker to install and does not require the inch-pound torque wrench you need to get the throttle body spacer and throttle body back on. Please note, however, that the optional brake booster tee fitting should be checked and cleaned (if necessary) about at least every 50,000 miles or 2 years

V3.4 Kit: The V3 kit is the most recent PCV fix kit design, with a completely top-side installation that in most cases, does not require intake manifold removal. The V.43 kit also replaces the OEM PCV pipe (the corrugated/accordion hose from the intake manifold to the turbo, which has a high rate of failure due to cracking) while re-using the terminals. The V3.4 kit's check valve is also easily serviceable without intake manifold removal.

Purchase Details:
Orders are handled on my website at CruzeKits.com.

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Alternate Order Options
Please contact me for multiple-order discounts if you need to purchase more than one kit at a time, if you need a re-install kit, or if you need any replacement parts. I can also ship overnight via UPS if needed.



Installation Instructions
V1 Fix Kit Instructions: How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install

V2.1 Fix Kit Instructions: Coming Soon

V3 Fix Kit Instructions:
I have. 2015 Chevy Cruze ltz rs. How do I know if this is a fix for my engine?
 
Greetings. Don't recall how I stumbled on to this forum, but the PCV discussion is interesting. Lots of detailed information. Thanks XR. And others. Anyway, I recently bought a '15 Encore w/62k. No symptoms indicating any bad valves, save for a couple of weeks ago after the car sat for about 10 days I had a rough idle a couple of times but nothing since. But it would seem prudent to be proactive and install the 3.4 kit anyway. The orange nipple is visible but I did read where that's not necessarily a good indicator that it's working correctly. I think i also read where it's possible to push the check valve out with a pick or stiff wire. Anyone done that? And does it make sense to go ahead a swap out the cam cover? Or if it's not broke, don't fix it?
 
a couple of weeks ago after the car sat for about 10 days I had a rough idle a couple of times but nothing since. But it would seem prudent to be proactive and install the 3.4 kit anyway. The orange nipple is visible but I did read where that's not necessarily a good indicator that it's working correctly. I think i also read where it's possible to push the check valve out with a pick or stiff wire. Anyone done that? And does it make sense to go ahead a swap out the cam cover? Or if it's not broke, don't fix it?
Well you're asking a lot of questions, and I'm sure XR will show up eventually.
IMO and experience, there is no way your PCV system is operating normally. The OE intake and valve cover PCV valves just wouldn't make it this long. And depending on how they failed (or will fail) could result in a number of other engine failures. If it was my vehicle, I would at least install the fix kit and replace the intake gasket. In if the valve cover is leaking at all, replace it as well.
 
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